The 5th worst passage in the world
20 February 2009 | Columbia
pilott / clear and breezy
I will tell you quite candidly that this passage across this particular stretch of water has had me buffaloed for a while now. It is considered one of the 5 most dangerous and difficult passages in the world. The only solution to this trip is to wait and watch for a wx window of sufficient length to make the trip under decent conditions. It is nearly 500 miles from Aruba to Cartagena along a coast that can be most inhospitable during bad wind and wave coditions. The prevailing knowledge is to catch that window during the change of seasons between late Oct and the end of Nov. Failing that there is the change of season during late April to the end of May. Well, we had committed to guests in Curacao and Bonaire during the Oct-Nov window so could not go with the rest of our traveling crew who found a comfortable passsage during that time. However, having no desire to stay in the ABC's till spring I haunted the wx sites on the internet and while in Aruba this amazing 9 day window opened up around us and we launched for Cartagena on the second day of moderating seas and wind. We did the first leg to Cabo de Vela on an overnite that brought us into that bay at 7am as the light was rising. We anchored of the fishing village there till about 2pm and after a short nap we pulled the hook and took of for Santa Marta doing another overnite and getting in there at about 3pm. As we pulled into the bay we were greeted by the Columbian Coast Guard who came aboard to check our papers and welcome us to Columbia. They were polite and professional and it was good to know that they were around if we needed them. We anchored off the beach at Gaira and rested until midnight; then pulled the hook and took off on the long last leg to Cartagena. We had decided that since the conditions were so benign we would not linger and tempt the gods to punish us for our temerity. As you leave Santa Marta Bay you come upon what is undoubtably one of the worst features of this passage. The mighty Rio Magadalena! On a bad day the wind off the sea pushes up large ugly waves against the outflow of this river. On top of that one can often see anything from whole trees to dead cows being carried across ones path as you try to cross. For us the Gods smiled and continued the benign seas and winds we had been experiencing since the start of our passage. By mid morning we were across the rivers influence and on our way down the coast to Cartagena. At about 4pm the city skyline began to appear through the haze and smog. High rise hotels and condos as far as the eye can see. As we closed in on our goal we began to see the opening in the old underwater wall constructed by the early Spanish defenders of the city. It's intent was to rip the bottom out of any marauding pirate or privateer who tried to enter the harbor. The only other usable entrance was protected by fortresses and cannon that would deny passage to all who were unwelcome. We made an easy approach and suddenly found ourselves inside the famous and historical harbor of Cartagena. About 30 to 40 minutes across the harbor was the anchorage where cruisers are allowed to stay. Following the markers and the cruising guide we soon found ourselves among old friends and looking for a place to drop the hook. Once securely anchored we took a moment to look around us and realize we were finally in Cartagena, safe and sound, with the worlds 5th worst strech of water behind us and never having seen a wave over 4 ft or wind above 20 kts. Damned if that doesn't call for a drink!!!!!