05/26/2013, Papeete
It has been awhile since I have updated the blog. We,ve been busy and internet access has been spotty. We loved the Tuamotus, spending our time in Rangiroa, one of the largest Atolls. James dived everyday (sometimes twice) and got his certification. We enjoyed biking, renting a scooter, snorkeling in "the Acquarium" and visiting "Shark City" in the "Blue Lagoon. The pictures will tell you the complete story. Bob did a couple of great videos that I've downloaded, too. The sharks are incredible. We really enjoyed three young local men playing their homemade instruments and singing. We recorded Aloha Oe.
We had a great time. There was a large swell coming up the Pacific from New Zealand. You may have heard about it. It kept us in the protected lagoon at Rangiroa for a couple extra days. We expected an easy passage to Tahiti, especially when there was just the two of us. We were surprised and presented with 10-12 foot swells on our beam for 2 days. It was the first time I was really anxious that we might be knocked down. We had occasional waves break on and over us, and we got a little water in the cabin. Things inside definitely relocated. Lots to rearrange and clean to get us back in shape. Coming into Tahiti was beautiful at early light. We got a slip in the marina across from the mega yachts. They call us "le petit bateau". It is nice to be in a marina for the first time since Mexico, after over 2 months at sea or anchor. Here we have water and power, Laundromat, etc. We hadn't had hot water since Mexico either. This cruiser really appreciates a little marina time once and for all.
First, we took a field trip to their incredible French supermarket, Carrefour. More choices than we have seen in a long time (maybe ever). Have to get organized before actually shopping. I could go crazy! Then our friends on Maestro rented a car. We went all around Tahiti and Tahiti Iti. We visited the museum, three waterfalls, the beach, old marinas, botanical gardens, etc. What a nice day and what a beautiful place. Today we went to the Evangelical Tahitian Church for worship. It is Mother's Day here. Lots of flowers. The ladies were incredibly decked out in mumus and individually designed and constructed straw hats of all sizes and colors, often matching. I put the one picture I took in church on the blog for you all to see. The singing was beyond anything I have ever heard. Wish you could have heard them. We loved being there. Then back to the boat to try again to get Internet access. It has really been spotty for the last few weeks. Time to do our business and update our blog. Make sure and look at the gallery. It tells the story better than I can.
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Comments [3]
05/13/2013, Rangaroa, Tuamotos
James, Bob and I have made another passage. We spent 6 days going from the Marquesas to the Tuamotos. There was hardly any wind, so we did a lot of motoring. The seas were very calm. People who left a few days before us had white-out squalls and huge seas and wind. We were fortunate. The Tuamotos are wonderful. We are anchored outside of the Kia Ora Hotel on Rangiroa. Even though this is one of the biggest islands, it is very remote without much in the way of supplies and services. We found a little store on Saturday and wondered about the paths the two bunches of brown celery had taken to get here. That would be interesting , wouldn't it. James is getting his diving certification and then flying out to Tahiti. There is a small airstrip here. We will follow shortly after. Yesterday we rode bikes (I hadn't been on a bike since I was 12). The first few minutes wasn't pretty, but I began to catch on again. Today we will snorkel. This really is paradise. Periodically we have a squall that washes the boat (and sometimes us). Can't waste water. I worked out a system that I rinse the dishes well in saltwater. Then close the drains on both sinks. I keep both the wash and rinse water and use it to wash a few clothes each morning. See how inventive we get cruising. One blouse has a little papaya on it :-) I'm going to spend some time putting pictures in the gallery today. Hope you enjoy them.
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05/06/2013, Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas
Yesterday, when we returned from our hike, we found local young men had helped themselves to our dinghy to haul their heavy sacks of copra out to their delivery boat. First we were annoyed and then we decided to help. When they were finished they laughingly towed us behind their boat back to realtime. Today, just before leaving, they returned with bananas and papayas for our trip. That is how it works here in the Marquesas. We love and appreciate it.
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05/06/2013, Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas
We reached Nuku Hiva safe and sound and entered Taiohae Bay along with a Holland America Cruise ship. It was a good place for us to look into repairing the whisker pole, the boom vang and order a new sail. They had a helpful chandlery on shore and a grocery store with fresh produce. Their supply ship Aranui arrived while we were here and we were able to provision for the Tuamotos. No stores there. Of course, boat work is not done there, but there were helpful connections to getting things started. The sail is being made now and will be shipped to the marina in Tahiti. A very unfortunate expense right now, but you can't sail without a main. We are using the torn one reefed down to hold it together just now. We are hoping to make it to Tahiti without big winds. The Genoa is large and fortunately still in good shape. We went around to the north side of the island to Anaho Bay a couple of days ago. It is really just what one would imagine paradise would look like. Tall verdant volcanic mountains with dramatic spires and jungle growth, protected water and white sand beaches. We can swim and snorkel off the boat. Really how I imagined cruising (at it's most romantic) to be. Of course, that is only part of the experience. However, it is lovely and we have really enjoyed it. Only three other boats in the anchorage. We have hiked and potlucked and share videos and books. We will leave tomorrow for the Tuamotos. That will be a five day passage. We are going to go to Rangiroa where James is going to get his dive certification. We miss you all and just love hearing your comments. Had internet in Taiohae Bay for a short time and got to read them. Sailmail is working well at wdf3979@sailmail.com
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04/27/2013, Fatu Hiva and Tahuata in the Marquesas
What a time we had in Fatu Hiva! We anchored in Hanavave in the Bay of Virgins. It is very well known as a cruising destination. Very remote and dramatically beautiful. Spires of rocks stand guard before the entrance into a verdant valley. Foliage is dense and population is scarce. A spooky wind blows onto the anchorage at 20-30 knots. It is unsettling, but at the same time intriguing. A herd of goats climbs up and down the steep rock cliffs. We hiked to a waterfull into the interior. On our way back we were gestured to a small house by the young husband and wife. They spoke Marquesan and French, so it wasn't easy to communicate. They had seen Bob's hat. The wife, Angel, had been operated on for melanoma (badly done I might add). He was concerned she had to way to cover her neck and face from the sun. Of course, I showed her my scars and promised to come back with a hat. The next day I took her one and she was so happy. Also, some new dish towels. Their lifestyle is alot like camping with some walls and a floor. She had us in the "house'. We told her we wanted to go to Omao, the next village for some bread and cereal. She took us to meet her neighbor Edith and her husband Jean Baptiste. They took us in their aluminum boat along the magnificent shoreline. When we arrived, Edith walked us around and took us to a woman who painted tapa and to the store. No bread or cereal, but a nice visit. They have to live off their land. The supply boat only comes once a month. When we returned I gave Edith one of my sarongs and some towels as well. In a few minutes Jean Baptiste was back with bags of fruit and the message he was going out fishing for us. Later that evening he brought us a yellow tail tuna we will barbeque tonight. Bea and Jordy, another couple that we met arrange to cook a dinner for the cruisers. Last night 22 of us ate the cooking of the local ladies. Everything was from their land and the sea. It was nice to be together. Some had just finished their crossing, others, like us had been here for a week. This morning Jean Baptiste came to say goodbye as we raised the anchor on beautiful Fatu Hiva. Today we are sailing to Tahuata. We will anchor for the night without going ashore and then on to Nuku Hiva for provisions and fuel. It has a little more in the way of supplies and services. The swells are making me a little nauseous as I write, so I will close for now. I must admit, being with the people has been my favorite part of the trip so far. -----
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04/25/2013, Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas
We have arrived and anchored on the island of Hiva Oa in the Marquesas. We enjoyed all the other boats who crossed as well and had some social functions. We have checked in with the Gendarmerie and we're legal now. Went for an all day trip around the island with our guide Freda. She takes us on an all day tour of the island. Quite winding roads, lovely bays and her special picnic lunch. Beautiful vegetation and bays. Tomorrow am we leave for the southern island Fatu Hiva. Tomorrow: We anchored in the Bay of Virgines on Fatu Hiva. Bob and James have gone to a neighboring boat to get the lay of the land. I stayed back to do dishes and have a much needed solar shower in the dark. It's all good. Lots to look forward to.
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