Beautiful Tonga and on to Fiji
23 September 2013 | Suva, Fiji
Karyn, sunny and windy
Wow, we spent six weeks in Tonga! Our friends on Cherokee Rose say they are beginning to be in "manana time". Us too! There is no longer any reason to hurry. Tonga is so beautiful. The people are very different from those we have encountered in other of these island nations. All have been friendly and helpful, but here they are more shy and quiet. The mixture of "palangis" (Kiwi's, Australians, Americans, etc.) and Tongans is about even here. The immigrants almost outnumber the native people and they are very different. Church and family commitments are paramount to the Tongan people. We had several tastes of their lifestyle choices during this visit. It is remarkable that they have been able to hold on to these values and practices until current day. TV is only on a short time in the evening and only family programing. All go to church. On Sunday, only family and church activities are sanctioned. Even swimming and boating are forbidden. It is a time to be quiet, reflective and close to loved ones. For the rest of the people, this just isn't their way of life. This would be a very interesting place to do some sociological research. We just got a quick look, but it was fascinating. We did some very interesting things. The harbor is in the town of Neiafu on the island of Vava'u. You moor in the harbor. It is protected and fairly large. Mooring balls are provided by local merchants. It is very easy and safe. It is also a port for the Polynesia Voyaging Canoes (see picture). The town is set up to care for cruisers. Restaurant/excursion employees are net controllers on the cruisers' VHF radio net each morning. They provide the weather and the information that cruisers need (i.e. weather, where to get your laundry done, names of service and excursion providers, info on what is happening in town and a venue to connect people over the VHF radio who do not have phones or internet access). It is all very handy for us. However, it is a town (albeit small) and we also like remote places. What happens is that people come to town to go to the daily vegetable market, get internet, see a doctor, etc. Then they go off to an outer island anchorage, and back again. Moorings has a large operation here and they provide a map of anchorages (numbered). The fishermen have paid for a repeater on the VHF, so that people can hear the net in Nieafu and talk to each other from the anchorages. Each anchorage has something special about it. It is a lovely environment. You have some socializing time with great cruisers and some quiet "down time".
Some of the things we did and saw. First a visit to the Botanical Gardens run by the past Minister of Agriculture for Tonga "Onatele". You will see nice pictures of him and his property in the Gallery. He graduated from the University of Hawaii and has gathered an impressive array of tropical plants. As you follow him around his "garden" he fills you with history and legends. It's a real treat. Then, if you are lucky he sits with you while you have a snack and continues the stories. It's really an all day adventure.
The second adventure right out of Neiafu was "A Taste of Tonga". A Tasmanian man is trying to develop the vanilla trade on Vava'u. We rode in his truck with his assistant Vena for the day, as he toured the plots of land that have been planted with vanilla "orchids" and have previously not been well attended to. He hopes to produce a healthy export product for Tonga and gives financial incentives to the native people. It is complicated and the relationship between this outsider with the check book and the local farmers looks fraught with difficulties to me. It is a very power over/under situation and time will tell what will happen. Needless to say it was an interesting day and I learned a lot about the culture for women by riding in the back of the truck with Vena. It is very difficult here for women to break through the stereotypical roles. She wanted to study to be a veterinarian. Unfortunately, her scholarship was given to a young man (because he was a man, not because he was a better student). She shared her struggles and I tried to listen and encourage her to be all that she wants to be. Throughout our time in Tonga, I tried to talk with lots of women (both Tongan and palangi) about their experiences. Very interesting.
Our last excursion from Neaifu was "whale watching/swimming". Well, we saw the whales, but they weren't in the mood for swimmers. Very nice day on the water in someone else's boat through some of the lovely islands. It gave us an idea where we wanted to go as we left the harbor. In the gallery, you will see pictures of sea caves (we swam in them), whales, etc.
As we began to explore the outer islands we saw lots of lovely things. We snorkeled and hiked. We met people who lived on the islands and found out more about their lives. We even ate at a Basque restaurant replete with a visiting goat. Remarkable. We even took time to clean and polish Realtime in preparation for a meeting with the boat broker from New Zealand. She sure looks beautiful, if I do say so myself!
The most memorable experience for me was two separate visits to the village of Utulei. Utulei is just across the water from Neiafu. You go there by launch or in your dinghy The first time we went with friends on the launch for a "Tongan Feast" and cultural experience. A few months ago, a woman named To'puo who was raised there and then moved away for most of her adult life is working with the village. When she returned she found the people struggling. She decided to stay and set three goal for the community, physical, spiritual, and financial health. She now has the people eating more healthily, visiting the doctor, staying strong on their spiritual paths (Wesleyan Methodist and Catholic), and doing Friday night "Tongan Feasts and cultural events. We had a tour of the village, demonstrations of their handicrafts (they were for sale but no pressure), a Kava Ceremony, a demonstration of all they do with coconuts, and the best meal we had in Tonga. The evening was topped of with traditional Tongan dancing by the children. Please look at the gallery for these pictures. Words would not be enough to describe these kids. We were charmed.
As the evening ended, I told To'pou that I was a minister. She invited us to worship with them before we left. On our last Sunday, we went via dinghy with our friends Bruce and Laura on Pacific Highway. To'pou met us at the beach and brought us to her home for some conversation. She told us about her life and her people both in Utulei and abroad. I was able to ask her to tell us more about the customs around death/funerals/grief. I appreciated it so much. Then we walked up the hill together to the Weslyan/Methodist Church service. It was very traditional and most of the worship leaders were women. I was asked to do the final prayer. It was wonderful to participate in worship again after such a long hiatus. The young people walked us back to our dinghies and sent us off with coconuts and papayas. It was a wonderful morning and a great way to end our stay in Tonga. We will always remember these wonderful people.
Our passage to Suva, Fiji was 3 days and 4 nights. It was the easiest passage we have had with calm seas, steady tradewinds and a full moon. Yes, we were tired from interrupted sleep, but it was like you read about in the cruising books when you are deciding to try this lifestyle.
Suva is a large city, 800,000 people. We have been able to visit their large market, take in a movie and get some extra memory on our computers. Today, a self-guided walking tour, the botanical gardens and the Fiji museum. I'll reflect on Fiji later in our travels. We plan to spend a month here.