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Kayak Rolling
Fri Aug 5 6:03:10 EDT 2011, Aasiaat, Greenland

Kayak rolling practice in Aasiaat harbor. Issuma in background at dock.
Note how narrow the kayaks are.

Fri Aug 5 11:39:15 EDT 2011 | george ray
Could you talk a bit about cost and availability of supplies as well as the types of food you find available, and the people, how do you find them?
Fri Aug 5 18:16:08 EDT 2011 | will vandorp
richard-- yipeee! you picked a good year to succeed, as it's unbearably hot in most of the US this summer. i always look forward to pics and posr
Seamans House
Thu Aug 4 0:00:00 EDT 2011, Aasiaat, Greenland

The red building is the Seamans House, where one can arrange for showers and wifi.

Thu Aug 4 17:28:59 EDT 2011 | Timothy Hudson
Truly incredible! Congratulations on another successful leg of your epic journeys. Perhaps you can write an update to the classic Icelandic Saga's -- the Greenland Saga's. Great to see you're there!
Fri Aug 5 6:07:49 EDT 2011 | Richard Hudson
Thanks, Tim, it is very nice to be in Greenland.
Fri Aug 5 11:26:18 EDT 2011 | george ray
Welcome to Greenland
Tue Aug 2 21:30:00 EDT 2011, Aasiaat, Greenland

In the approaches to Aasiaat (formerly Egedesminde), this whale seems to be welcoming us to Greenland.

It is great to finally be in Greenland! This is my fourth attempt (in three years), to sail to Greenland. I haven't mentioned all of the attempts before on the blog because I like to focus on what has happened, not on what might have been.

In 2009, I left Argentina singlehanding. In the north of Brazil, I got dengue fever (it comes from certain mosquitoes--there is no vaccine, no cure and no immunity--you either survive it or not) which made me too weak to sail for several weeks. After recovering, it was too late to get to Greenland for the summer, so I sailed back south instead.

In 2010, I singlehanded (except for a few hundred miles) from Argentina to New York, picked up crew, and we left Labrador for Greenland. About 50 miles out, two shrouds (wires holding the mast) broke and the mainmast came out of its step and was damaged (see blog entries of last summer). We sailed back to Cartwright Labrador for repairs, and then I didn't trust the rig enough to cross the Labrador Sea with it, so we sailed up Labrador and to Baffin Island, before sailing south again.

This year, almost a month ago we left Labrador for Greenland and got farther, but again had rigging problems (followed by engine problems) which caused us to go to Cartwright, Labrador for repairs.

We arrived late last night, and promptly celebrated :).

Wed Aug 3 14:28:30 EDT 2011 | Yann
you got it!!!
Wed Aug 3 15:48:27 EDT 2011 | george ray
Great Job !!!!
Thu Aug 4 3:25:32 EDT 2011 | Brian
Happy for you Richard. good work.
Have couple of guests here who chatted to you in Cartwright before last departure, they will be pleased to here you made it too.
Thu Aug 4 9:23:24 EDT 2011 | Amos
Congratulations to all hands; the rewards of persistance!! Huzzah.
Thu Aug 4 16:56:13 EDT 2011 | Richard Hudson
Thank you, gentlemen.

Thu Aug 4 22:46:09 EDT 2011 | George Conk
Congratulations, Richard and crew.
I have dreamed of sailing to Greenland for 30 years - since I read Rockwell Kent's N by E.

- George
Fri Aug 5 6:05:21 EDT 2011 | Richard Hudson
Thanks, George.

I've always liked Rockwell Kent's N by E. I'm hoping to have an easier time of this trip than he did :)
Fri Aug 5 15:17:30 EDT 2011 | George Conk
It's true Kent's boat was wrecked in a storm in the harbor, but he wintered with Salamina, and paid tribute to her in a book of the same name, with many paintings.
Mon Aug 8 15:53:34 EDT 2011 | Magda
Congratulations from Martin and myself :D You finally made it :D
Into the Arctic
Mon Aug 1 15:00:00 EDT 2011, Davis Strait

Today we crossed the Arctic Circle (red arrow in picture). While the Arctic Circle is quite an arbitrary line of latitude, above it, there is 24 hour daylight for at least some of the summer (the farther north, the more days of 24 hour daylight each summer). We're late in the year, so we are seeing sunrise about 0300, sunset about 2230 and light or twilight in between.


Wed Aug 3 4:55:45 EDT 2011 | george ray
Go ISSUMA !! .. Richard, what is your personal furtherest north that you have adventured ??
Wed Aug 3 14:28:40 EDT 2011 | Richard Hudson
Thanks, George, this is the furthest north that I have sailed so far.
The Foremast
Mon Aug 1 11:02:00 EDT 2011, Davis Strait

The view aloft, from the foredeck. The four-sided sail on the left is the fisherman. The sail with the orange triangle patch is the storm jib. Once I've set the storm jib, I usually leave it set as long as I'm sailing--there being no necessity to take it down once the winds get lighter.


Sat Jul 30 19:02:00 EDT 2011, Davis Strait

The view in the pilothouse. To the left, Lin is studying the Greenland cruising guide, on the right, farther forward and much less visible, Jordan is playing his guitar.

Sun Jul 31 7:55:33 EDT 2011 | george ray
Very nice to see some 'life aboard' rather than only scenery and topsides. Navigators and musicians are great, where is the cook? What are you emphasizing for provisions? hard tack and salt pork ??? . . . . . . .. I have been doing a lot of dehydrating lately and thinking of voyaging stores. Instead of slicing then drying, I puree in powerful blender and pour out on non-stick sheet to make fruit leather and vegetable crisp. All dried at low temps to maintain max nutritional value.
Sun Jul 31 10:37:58 EDT 2011 | Brian Lumley
Good to see all is well. Are you dehydrating with your stove?
Wed Aug 3 8:42:21 EDT 2011 | Richard Hudson
I'll make a later post about food aboard
A Beautiful Day in Davis Strait
Sat Jul 30 11:02:00 EDT 2011, Davis Strait

A beautiful day sailing in the Davis Strait. We sailed in and out of fog banks, which can be seen ahead of the boat in the picture.

Davis Strait was named for John Davis, the English mariner of the 1500s. Davis Strait is north of the Labrador Sea, lying between Baffin Island and Greenland. Northwest of Davis Strait is Baffin Bay.

It Often Looks Like This
Fri Jul 29 11:02:00 EDT 2011, Labrador Sea

We have been doing a lot of motoring in calm, foggy conditions. This is what we can typically see (pretty much nothing beyond 100m). The lights visible thru the window are, left to right, the VHF/AIS, radar and GPS.

Thanks for the comments. At sea, I generally do receive the comments, but can't reply in line.

As to the location of the engine oil cooler, it sits between the engine block and the engine oil filter.

As to what factors to consider when deciding where to land in Greenland, well, I'm still deciding :). I had indefinite plans of going first to Nuuk, and our course has been basically straight for Nuuk. Being the biggest city in Greenland, Nuuk is the obvious best choice for repairs and provisioning. At the moment, it looks like we will have moderate southerly winds for the next two days (we have no wind now), so, given what will be a good tailwind, and the expected boost we will have from the West Greenland Current, we may bypass Nuuk and make the first port someplace farther up the coast.


Fri Jul 29 15:40:04 EDT 2011 | yann
if you arrive north of Nuuk, the best seems to me to be Aasiat, in the south of Disko bay, before visiting Illulisat.
if you meet Rick and Karen, tell them hello for me, they will probably recognise the boat.
Its Not Always Like This
Tue Jul 26 18:02:00 EDT 2011, Labrador Sea

It's not always like this in the Labrador Sea! Clear skies, light following winds, warm (if wearing thermal underwear) temperatures--very pleasant, and good conditions for taking pictures.

Wed Jul 27 6:41:43 EDT 2011 | george ray
Map position seems to be working. My guess based on the fact that the map shows you well offshore is that your headed for Greenland . The SE tip of Greenland seems to have a nice cluster of towns and settlements. What factors do you weigh in making your itinerary?
Fri Jul 29 7:04:22 EDT 2011 | brian
You seem to be well on your way to Greenland, fair winds.
If you come across Wanderbird tell Capt Rick and Karen that Brian and Fran say hi
Wed Aug 3 8:44:33 EDT 2011 | Richard Hudson
If I do meet up with Wanderbird, I'll definitely tell them you said hi. I hear lots about Wanderbird, but have not yet seen her.
Away Again
Mon Jul 25 10:02:00 EDT 2011, Labrador Sea

The day after getting the engine fixed, we picked up groceries, filled the water tanks and sailed off. The wind was perfect for sailing off the dock (instead of motoring off), so we cast off the lines and set the sails and sailed off.

We sailed away from the docks then beat our way out the entrance channel, tacking (turning the boat thru the wind so the sails go to the other side) every 3-5 minutes. The current was in our favor, which was good, as the tacks were not easy to do. Tacking the yankee jib was more difficult than before because instead of dragging the sail and sheets (ropes) across the smooth surface of the aluminium extrusion of the roller furler of the staysail/trinquette, it now dragged across a wire stay, so tended to get stuck. I can't think of any port in the Labrador Sea where I'd like to try getting furler parts, so we will live with it as it is--it is an inconvenience, not a major problem.

We had a crew change in Cartwright. Ryan got off the boat and Lin, a merchant marine officer, came aboard.

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