Richard
Sun Sep 4 10:02:00 EDT 2011, Ulukhaktok (formerly Holman), Diamond Jenness Peninsula, Victoria

A contented-looking Husky watches the road.

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Richard
Sat Sep 3 10:02:00 EDT 2011, Ulukhaktok (formerly Holman), Diamond Jenness Peninsula, Victoria

As we sailed in, we noticed what seemed to be a schooner on the beach. After walking into Ulukhaktok, we got a better look at it, and saw it was the ketch Nur. Built of steel plate to what looks like a dory hull design, and rigged with what seemed available locally, we were told the owner was a white man who built the boat here. The owner apparently lives on nearby Holman Island during the summer, so we never met him.

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Richard
Thu Sep 1 10:02:00 EDT 2011, Ulukhaktok (formerly Holman), Diamond Jenness Peninsula, Victoria

Most of the residents of Ulukhaktok (1986 population 303) seemed to be away somewhere when we were there. We talked to several people, but mostly there seemed to be few people walking around. Perhaps because the most common way of getting around is 4-wheelers (All Terrain Vehicles--the kind you sit on, not in, powered by small engines), so not so much time is spent walking around.

Victoria Island is the ancestral homeland of the Copper Inuit, and in the 1900s there were about 300 Inuit in the area, hunting on Bnks Island in the winter and on Victoria Island in the summer. The first Hudson's Bay Company post (now called the Northern store) in the area was established in 1923 on the north shore of Prince Albert Sound. The post moved to Holman in 1939. In 2006, the name of the hamlet was officially changed to the traditional name of Ulukhaktok.

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Richard
Wed Aug 31 10:02:00 EDT 2011, Ulukhaktok (formerly Holman), Diamond Jenness Peninsula, Victoria Island, Canada

We had a pleasant daysail from Freshwater Bay to Ulukhaktok (formerly Holman). The hamlet sits between two bays, King's Bay and Queen's Bay. We had planned to sail into King's Bay (as mentioned in the Sailing Directions) and anchor, but, on approach, considering that Queen's Bay was wider, and more feasible to tack into if necessary, we sailed into Queen's Bay instead. I was apprehensive coming in, as there were only occasional soundings on the chart (the Sailing Directions note that the approaches have not been fully sounded), and I wasn't sure the features of the land we were looking at matched the chart very well. Sailing onto the anchor went really well, we made it into the bay on one tack, furled all but the mainsail, rounded up into the wind and lowered the anchor, later backing the mainsail to set it. No one noticed us at first, later several people said it was rare to see a sailboat here (though cruise ships commonly visit).

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Richard
Wed Aug 31 10:02:00 EDT 2011, Ulukhaktok (formerly Holman), Diamond Jenness Peninsula, Victoria

We had a pleasant daysail from Freshwater Bay to Ulukhaktok (formerly Holman). The hamlet sits between two bays, King's Bay and Queen's Bay. We had planned to sail into King's Bay (as mentioned in the Sailing Directions) and anchor, but, on approach, considering that Queen's Bay was wider, and more feasible to tack into if necessary, we sailed into Queen's Bay instead. I was apprehensive coming in, as there were only occasional soundings on the chart (the Sailing Directions note that the approaches have not been fully sounded), and I wasn't sure the features of the land we were looking at matched the chart very well. Sailing onto the anchor went really well, we made it into the bay on one tack, furled all but the mainsail, rounded up into the wind and lowered the anchor, later backing the mainsail to set it. No one noticed us at first, later several people said it was rare to see a sailboat here (though cruise ships commonly visit).

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Richard
Tue Aug 30 10:02:00 EDT 2011, Freshwater Bay, Diamond Jenness Peninsula, Victoria Island, Canada

The Sailing Directions for Arctic Canada mention that Freshwater Creek at the head of Freshwater Bay is an excellent source of fresh water. So, as our drinking water supplies were running low, we anchored in Freshwater Bay and rowed the dinghy ashore with the blue water jug. We made several trips with the water jug to fill Issuma's freshwater tanks. We chlorinated the water (added bleach) to keep stuff from growing in it (a carbon filter near the faucet later removes most of that chlorine). The water does taste good.

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Richard
Mon Aug 29 10:02:00 EDT 2011, Dolphin and Union Strait, Arctic

As we sailed slowly in light winds, this seal came over to inspect Issuma's hull.

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Richard
Sat Aug 27 10:01:00 EDT 2011, Dolphin and Union Strait

I have been very surprised by the lack of ice this year (not that I'm complaining--the idea of getting stuck in the ice has absolutely no appeal). We have seen hardly any ice since Lancaster Sound. The long range forecasts for this year indicated a slightly later breakup than last year, not nearly so much ice free water. I suppose it is only a difference of a few degrees in average temperature for a few weeks that results in suddenly there being so little ice, and that small a temperature difference being difficult to forecast.

The lack of ice makes for pleasant sailing (at times).

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Richard
Sat Aug 27 10:01:00 EDT 2011, Cambridge Bay, Nunavut, Canada

This was once a schooner, but the main mast was removed when the engine was put in. It was towed to Cambridge Bay from Tuktoyaktuk. One of the builders of the church bought the vessel, but was stationed elsewhere when it arrived, and it was never used.

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Richard
Fri Aug 26 10:01:00 EDT 2011, Cambridge Bay, Nunavut, Canada

Ruins of the first Catholic Church in Cambridge Bay, built with rocks, seal oil and clay.

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