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Issuma
A Day in Tenakee Springs, Part 3
Maggie
Thu Nov 17 18:01:00 EST 2011, Tenakee Springs, Alaska

The Snyder Mercantile Shop has been serving basics in Tenakee since 1899, when Ed Snyder rowed over from Juneau with a boat full of groceries and set up business. The building and fixtures inside date back over a century. The old heavy wood display cases offer fresh groceries and modern pharmacy items, with lingering old time wares in their original packaging displayed like a museum on the highest shelves.

The hospitality matches the charm. When another customer discovered I¬'m from New York City, she called over the young shop clerk to introduce us, who lives in New York City too when she¬'s not staying with her uncle in Tenakee. Part time in New York and part time in Alaska, sounds great to me!

Sun Nov 20 12:44:15 EST 2011 | Amos
Wonderful stuff. I am pretty impressed at Mister Snyder. Rowing seventy-five miles is no small feat even unladen!! Very glad you are safe and hale.
Sun Nov 20 13:50:54 EST 2011 | Doug
Maggie - I would like to suggest you take over official duties as BlogMaster and not return home to NY - stay and write/blog your adventures aboard ISSUMA... so much to see and do that you really should keep Richard company - I can tell you are a GREAT influence on this gypsy captain - please stay Maggie ! It's a thousand miles south to Puget Sound Washington - a full winter time of explorations awaits you and Richard...
Tue Nov 22 14:15:03 EST 2011 | Maggie
Thanks, Doug and Amos, for the good review. I'd love to stay aboard Issuma and make the passage south, but duty calls me back to New York Harbor in a couple of weeks. You're right Doug, it's a fascinating area to explore, and the best way to do it is by sailboat!

In the meantime, I'll follow your encouragement and blog a little more from the good ship Issuma. Thanks!
A Day in Tenakee Springs, Part 2
Maggie
Wed Nov 16 18:01:00 EST 2011, Tenakee Springs, Alaska

The Blue Moon Cafe is the only restaurant in Tenakee, and proprietor Rosie only cooks when she wants to. Rosie's actually happy to entertain visitors, it's just that her old cook stove takes a long time and a lot of effort to start up, so she usually just serves drinks in the off season, along with local legends and gossip.

Rosie talked of the times when bears have followed the hunters back home to town, even breaking in to porches. "One of the bears was not too big", she says holding her hand 4 feet off the ground, "and the other was old and thin with no teeth, but they shot them anyway."

Interested in the old stove, I asked about her appliances, and heard a little about daily life. Just a few of the newer Tenakee homes have clothes washer/dryers, and those people host others' washing. Rosie wonders why people need the machine and the expense, don't they know how to wash clothes? You "pack in water" (carry buckets from a stream), wash the clothes in the same tub after you wash yourself, and hang dry. Sunday is ironing day, but we both admitted to skipping ironing most of the time.

A Day in Tenakee Springs, Part 1
Maggie
Wed Nov 16 18:00:00 EST 2011, Tenakee Springs, Alaska

We awaited our next weather window spending about a week in Tenakee Inlet at anchor and at the Tenakee Springs town dock. As this is my first time visiting Alaska, I didn't mind the chance to see more of the local area.

Naturally, Tenakee Springs has a natural hot mineral spring pool, which since the early 1900's has been enclosed in a bathhouse to protect bathers from harsh weather. This also serves to protect modesty, since to keep the pool pure only nude bathing is allowed, with separate hours scheduled for women and men. Leave the dressing room and step down onto the stone deck in the steamy warm air. The 104F/35C mineral water bubbles out of 8 foot deep fissure and fills the small rock pool. Rinse off before settling in on the stone cut step, and warming up from a day of work on the boat. The mineral water and the heat together are so relaxing and rejuvenating! Thanks very much to the local Tenakee Bathhouse Committee for maintaining the spring and facilities.

--

Sat Nov 19 13:21:01 EST 2011 | Doug
I now can see (oops wrong verb) tell that everything is going to work out A-OK. Winter over in Sitka will be fabulous. Time to start writing a book - you are going to have plenty of Alaska winter time on your hands.
Chatham Strait
Richard
Mon Nov 14 18:00:00 EST 2011, Chatham Strait, Alaska

Nice tailwind pushing us down Chatham Strait.

--

Thu Nov 17 0:01:47 EST 2011 | Victor
Chatham Str. , Frederick Sd. , Peterburg I hope. Looks nice sailing and calm seas.
Were reminiscing about you at the Club with
Martin. Have still good, warm sailing days at Lk. Ontario. Heavy frost is coming to NW.
Thu Nov 17 17:14:31 EST 2011 | terry
nice too see ... your going south .... i wanna see some pic's without snow ... hehehe
Thu Nov 17 21:58:47 EST 2011 | Richard Hudson
We're not so far along as Frederick Sound yet--the winds are making for slow traveling. Freezing spray is now often a consideration.

It could be quite a while before I have pics without snow :).

Fri Nov 18 15:00:46 EST 2011 | Joe Berta
Ahoy Richard from Bobcaygeon Ontario!
Joe & Wendy here, aboard the M V Surveyor, currently waiting to be icebound on Pigeon Lake.
Awesome journey, thank you for sharing. I much enjoy keeping track of yous and happy to see you all safe and realizing your dream. Almost makes me want to return to BC one day following in your wake. See, you made it so confusing now; Mexico or Iceland.
You know I always go for the heat.....
BTW, I see the Lofoten worked out good!

Fair winds for now,
Joe
www.cruisingdog.com




Sun Nov 20 10:33:32 EST 2011 | Richard Hudson
Hello Joe and Wendy,

Thanks very much, nice to hear from you.

The Lofoten heater has worked out well. I've used it a few times now under sail, when broad reaching or running (when not needing to use the mainsail).

Richard
Icy Strait
Richard/Maggie
Sun Nov 13 18:36:17 EST 2011, Icy Strait, Southeast Alaska

Moon over the mountains, early in the morning in Icy Strait.

Mon Nov 14 16:07:10 EST 2011 | Doug
Question - why does your website on sailblogs.com always show a location and group unrelated posts at that specific location? Icy Strait, Eagle and Indian Cove are distinct and separate locations. Is this a "user" feature or sailingblogs "bug"?
Thanks in advance for your reply.
Doug
Thu Nov 17 21:51:17 EST 2011 | Richard Hudson
The map on sailblogs.com generally shows whatever lat/long position I put in. If I don't put in a position, the map position defaults to France (I assume because I started using sailblogs in France). So if I don't have the correct lat/long handy when putting an entry up (which is common when blogging from a library/bar/school/coffee shop), I use a nearby position.
Eagle
Richard/Maggie
Fri Nov 11 15:11:50 EST 2011, Hoonah, Alaska

Eagles are plentiful in Southeast Alaska. Here an eagle keeps watch over the fuel dock at Hoonah.

Inian Cove
Richard/Maggie
Thu Nov 10 19:38:33 EST 2011, Inian Cove, Cross Sound, Alaska

Early in the morning at the entrance to Inian Cove, where we anchored.

Thu Nov 10 20:35:06 EST 2011 | Doug
Glad you have road access to civilization at Juneau Alaska - I would urge you to keep underway and head south without visiting every village enroute - next stop should be Ketchikan - now that you are a seasoned veteran of the Arctic cold you might not mind winter in S.E. Alaska - I've heard that winter moorage can be arranged in Petersburg but considering the airfare to return you would be much wiser to sail to Oregon where moorage is reasonable as is airfare. So glad you are safe on the "INSIDE PASSAGE".
God Speed,
Doug
Sat Nov 12 15:05:30 EST 2011 | Richard Hudson
Thanks, Doug. We are working our way south when the weather permits. While it hasn't been really cold yet (though Maggie may disagree with that), we are looking forward to warmer weather.
Away
Richard/Maggie
Tue Nov 8 15:49:03 EST 2011, Cape Spencer, Southeast Alaska

The gales and storms continued as one low pressure system after another reached Alaska. Unexpectedly, one day we suddenly had a forecast of relatively light (25-30 knots) and often favorable winds for several days.

For the fourth time, we left Yakutat.

We motored (and added sails when the wind was favorable) as quickly as we could, not sure that we really could trust being so lucky as to have several days of light and often favorable winds. The current was at first strong against us, then lessened as we made our way down the coast.

Late the next day, we approached Cape Spencer (picture) in good conditions, with a tailwind, intermittent rain and hail from a mild frontal passage, and 5m/16' following seas.

Wed Nov 9 17:59:17 EST 2011 | George Ray
Hurray!!!, you made to the inside passage, have a nice trip to Puget Sound. Please post a lot of commentary and if you stop in Bellingham, WA say hello to my friend Ben Smith and give him a boat tour, you all would be a real inspiration for him.
Wed Nov 9 23:03:57 EST 2011 | George Conk
Congratulations - and thanks for the beautiful shot of Cape Spencer.
NOAA is reporting winds to 90 mph on the Bering Sea Coast today!
Here's to winter in Vancouver!
Thu Nov 10 4:26:02 EST 2011 | will
glad you're headed away from what sounds like nasty weather . . . fair winds!
Thu Nov 10 6:41:52 EST 2011 | Jesse
Rich and crew,

I am also relieved to hear that you may be safer from what the headlines here are proclaiming to be an unusually significant approaching Alaskan storm. When they're making a big deal in the press in NY about a storm in the Bering Sea, you know that there's a truly big blow afoot. Take care, and smooth sailing in all things large and small.
Thu Nov 10 15:05:28 EST 2011 | Amos
Bravo! Much relieved to hear of your successful escape!! When do you think you'll be in Vancouver?
Thu Nov 10 19:01:06 EST 2011 | Richard Hudson
Thanks for the comments.

George, thanks, if I go to Puget Sound I will look up your friend.

I am really glad to not be anywhere near that unusually strong storm in the Bering Sea! I saw it forecast on the weatherfax the other day as 941mb and 70 knot (64 and above is hurricane force) winds--way more than I'd want to be out in.
Leave, Return, Repeat
Richard
Mon Nov 7 2:00:00 EST 2011, Alaska

Picture is of the sea buoy off Yakutat at dawn.

Leaving Yakutat seemed like such an easy trip--about 140 miles southeast to get into Cross Sound (an entrance to the Inside Passage where there are many places to anchor or dock).

Our first attempt to leave Yakutat was aborted when a 49knot squall that was not forecast (and caught the fishing fleet by surprise as well) came up as we were about to clear Yakutat Bay.

Our second attempt was aborted when we found an unexpectedly strong 1.5knot current running against us. We had only two days before a SE storm was to arrive and the timing of getting into an unfamiliar port in time to secure for a storm was too tight for comfort, so we returned to the safety and comfort of Yakutat again.

Low pressure systems kept coming into the Gulf of Alaska, and bringing mostly strong to storm-force SE winds to the coast where we were. There wasn't much of a gap between the storms, and they seemed to be forming faster and faster as October ended and November began.

The pilot chart (which shows average winds and currents for the oceans) showed pretty much no prevailing winds (but that is for a larger area). The Coast Pilot mentioned a current running along the coast that was variable in direction and speed, and mentioned that winds tended to run along the coast (in either direction) instead of crossing it.

On our third attempt, we left before dawn with a forecast for east winds, 30 knots, with 50 knots out of bays and passes, and almost two days before the next southeast storm. It didn't sound great, but it did sound possible.

We couldn't quite sail the southeast course without tacking, so motored close to shore, in relatively shallow water where we expected the least current. This time, the current was running two knots against us. The first bit of the coast was fine, then the wind steadily increased and our speed dropped. Motoring as fast as possible, we spent several hours making 1 to 1.5 knots.

I considered setting sails to go faster, but that would have taken us farther from the shelter of the shore, so the waves would have increased and waves from storm-force (50 knot) winds are never good.

We hand steered to maintain course. Because we were close to shore, the waves were small--less than a metre, but many were crossing the deck and most were getting the tops blow off by the wind, so it was very wet on deck.

The temperature was a few degrees above freezing and forecast to go well below freezing that night.

A friend on a fishing boat ahead of us radioed to say that the wind eased ten miles further. Only ten miles! The sun was soon to set, and at 1 to 1.5 knots, we would need to hand steer outside for several hours after dark until we got to where the wind was less. It would be quite tough on us standing outside steering with the constant spray in the below-freezing temperatures at night.

The critical thing to keep in mind about travelling in high latitudes is how easy it is to get into a survival situation. The Gulf of Alaska (and anywhere that far north) is a really unforgiving place in November. We weren't in any danger, but, if we wore ourselves out by getting cold hand-steering outside for hours in freezing spray, the danger was that if anything went wrong (like an engine problem, or taking on water), we would be exhausted, and not necessarily capable of quick, rational thinking and action.

We had tried for several weeks to leave Yakutat, and knew this break in the weather might be the last one until spring.

It is really hard to turn back, when you know you are likely to make it if you just persevere and tough it out. But while the risk of something going wrong was small, it was still there, and I decided it was better to return to Yakutat.

We turned around. Before easing off the throttle and setting sails (as the wind was now with us), we were making 8.7 knots. We had spent all day coming less than 30 miles, and we were soon back at the dock in Yakutat,

Was Issuma going to spend the winter in Yakutat?

--

Wed Nov 9 9:52:18 EST 2011 | Amos
Wow, what a maritime mellerdrammer!! I think you made the right call. THere may still be a better window. Maybe even before Christmas. Stay well.
Snow
Richard
Sun Nov 6 16:22:30 EST 2011, Yakutat, Alaska

November in Alaska. Hmmm.

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