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Bronzed Dog
Mon Jul 14 12:08:08 EDT 2008, Vegueta, Las Palmas, Gran Canaria

Richard and me on one of our outings to Vegueta. We are standing before La Catedral de Santa Ana. The dog that appears to be licking Richard's hand is actually bronze...not bronzed. :)

Approaching the Harbor of Las Palmas
Sun Jul 13 9:39:44 EDT 2008, Gran Canaria

Richard carefully scans the entry of the harbor of Las Palmas for freighter traffic. Um, Richard, there's a freighter on your shoulder. :) Actually, that one was anchored.

Home Depot
Sun Jul 13 9:35:04 EDT 2008, Punta de Antiquera, Tenerife

Home of Issuma's more colorful sponsors. :) We are departing Punta De Antiquera for Las Palmas, Gran Canaria.

Approaching Punta de Antiquera
Sun Jul 13 9:32:59 EDT 2008, Tenerife

There's our beautiful anchorage of Punta de Antiquera. We will rest here overnight before commencing our 50-mile sail to Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, tomorrow.

Captain at the Helm
Sun Jul 13 9:12:51 EDT 2008, Tenerife

Ahoy! Handsome captain at 7 o'clock!

Brittany Steering
Sun Jul 13 8:28:26 EDT 2008, Departing Santa Cruz for Punta de Antiquera

In Santa Cruz, Tenerife, we picked up George, who was a tremendous help in repairing the (not so) Lost Rudder. :) Shortly thereafter, we departed Santa Cruz and headed to the north end of the island, to the anchorage of Punta de Antiquera. The quietude of this small, isolated bay is always a pleasant contrast to the endless party scene at Marina del Atlantico.

Tug of War
Sun Jul 13 8:27:33 EDT 2008, En Route to Punta de Antiquera, Tenerife

A typical power struggle between me and the mainsail cam cleat. It's made of wood, is the size of a small lobster, and is stubborn as heck. One really needs to throw one's back(side) into the job. :)

Cruising and Smiling
Sun Jul 13 8:26:29 EDT 2008, En Route to Punta de Antiquera, Tenerife

The perpetual sun, intense blue skies and steady breezes of the Canaries are enough to make anyone smile. That's the city of Santa Cruz in the background.

Lost Rudder
Fri Jul 11 1:00:00 EDT 2008, East of Tenerife, 28 30.6'N:16 1.3'W

Richard successfully repaired the engine in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria. Yahoo! Just in time for us to depart and pick up George who would be returning to Santa Cruz, Tenerife, on Sat. 7/12. On Friday, July 11th, Richard and I readied the boat in the early morning, and peacefully departed the harbor of Las Palmas.We set our sails for the 50 mile journey to the anchorage of Punta de Antiquera, Tenerife, a few miles above our final destination of Santa Cruz. We would anchor at Punta de Antiquera for one night before continuing on to Tenerife the next day, as a way to break up the trip.

What a glorious sail! The sun beat down brilliantly, the wind drove the boat at 7 knots, and the waves broke over the bow, boisterously billowing across the deck like frilly-skirted Can-Can girls. Other than the surrounding blue, our only other companions were mysterious, brown-backed sea birds who swooped and wheeled above the sea, taunting the waves, hunting for small, ill-fated fish just beneath the surface. By 18:20, we had only 13 miles to go to our anchorage, and we were still cookin' with gas at 7 knots! It was at this point that Richard noticed the rudder squeaking, this time loudly, and he decided to grease the pintles while I kept watch for traffic.

Now, allow me to interject that one of Richard's many charming qualities is that he almost NEVER curses. So when I heard Richard quietly say, "Oh sh*t," I knew something was wrong.

I turned around to see Richard bent over the stern of the boat in pretzel form, holding onto something with some effort. I looked over Richard's shoulder and saw a big white thing dangling and dragging off the back of the boat. What is that? An albino dolphin? No, it's the rudder...that's come off. Double YIKES! Richard instructed me to get some extra lines that he used to lash the rudder more firmly to the boat, and we then towed it. While Richard was busy securing the rudder, I'm quite pleased to report that I somehow managed to wait a full ten (anxiety-ridden) minutes before I asked Richard, "Do we need to call for help?" to which he replied, "No, why would we need to?" Perplexed, I replied, "Ummm, because we have no steering and we're in the middle of the ocean?" Richard looked at me quizzically, and said, "We can use the main rudder." Oh. Oh! In all the time that I had been on the boat, I had not realized that we had been steering with the AUXILIARY rudder. What an overwhelming relief to learn that we had another rudder to steer with. PHEW! I was wondering why Richard was behaving so calmly while I was ready to set off all the flares on the boat. So, we switched to steering with the wheel which is connected to the main rudder. In spite of dragging our "coattail" rudder, we managed to sail safely into our isolated and ruggedly beautiful anchorage of Punta de Antiquera, and anchored in 8 meters. In the quickly waning light of the sun sinking behind the cliffs, Richard and I brought the auxiliary rudder aboard with the fisherman halyard, and laid it to temporary rest on the deck, where it resembled an unconscious, beached whale (big boat, big rudder). It was a meditative moment.

Exhausted, we went to sleep almost immediately after anchoring, the tranquility of sleep only being temporarily interrupted by Richard noticing at 05:00 that the anchor had dragged about 150 meters. In silent, sleepwalking, automaton fashion, we re-anchored and then slept peacefully until after daybreak. Time to get the boat ready for our sail to Santa Cruz, pick up George, and repair the auxiliary rudder. Ah, sailing....always an adventure. :)

In the picture above, the red thing you see to the left is the windvane blade, that turns the auxiliary rudder to steer the boat at a constant course relative to the wind. When not sailing offshore, we disconnect the windvane from the auxiliary rudder and attach a tiller to the auxiliary rudder to steer manually.

Mon Jul 28 22:47:12 EDT 2008 | George Conk
Just read Brittany's latest post. Nice to have her aboard and reporting so volubly.

I'm in Maine where the hazards are rocks and lobster traps. Loss of steering is not so bad when you could- if you HAD to - paddle to shore - even if it is rocky and likely to damage my 50 year old lapstrake boat.
Keep up the good work. I wonder where you are now (Monday, July 28)
- George
p.s. - RR looked fine when I left NYC 10 days ago. -gwc
Tue Jul 29 16:08:53 EDT 2008 | bonnie
Glad it wasn't really LOST lost. Auxiliary or not!
Thu Jul 31 3:06:14 EDT 2008 | Yann Sergent
Congratulations, Richard, you are improving at fishing!!!
now you know why there is always something to tie the rudder ; it strange to see how , all of us, men, understand better with hands and bak and feet than with ears and brain
very friendly
it is wonderful to read your adventures from south sudan! thank you

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