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Drying out
Wed May 27 10:19:53 EDT 2009, Porto do Suape, PE, Brazil

I needed to do some work on the propellers (change and inspect the anodes), which was much easier to do with them out of the water.

I took the boat about 20 miles south of Recife to Porto do Suape. There is a significant commercial harbor there, as well as a very shallow, sandy harbor, where I wanted to beach the boat near high tide so the propellers would be out of the water at low tide. There is a pleasant village in the shallow harbor.

The shallow part of Suape being, well, shallow, I went aground about ten times on the way in...much of the time staying about 10 metres off a reef, where the deepest water was, for two miles. All the groundings were on sand, and the tide was rising, so none were a problem--just lift the keel a little more and proceed. While doing all this running aground I realized that not always does just lifting the keel free you from the bottom, as lifting the keel also means the weight of the keel is no longer partly supported by the bottom, so the hull floats a bit lower as the keel is raised--this is only an issue when the keel is almost all the way up. The workaround, of course, is to ensure you only go aground on a rising tide, as you would do without a lifting keel :).

The tidal range was about 1.6m, so the boat always remained partly in the water, but it was far enough out of the water to easily work on the propellers.

Thu May 28 1:00:31 EDT 2009 | yann
hello richard, i have been a long time without coming on your blog...
nice pictures, nice trip and nice boat:)
I hope you enjoyed Salvador?
Thu May 28 8:36:57 EDT 2009 | Richard Hudson
Hello Yann, Thanks, yes I really enjoyed the area around Salvador, thanks for suggesting I go there.

Recife Ferry
Mon May 25 9:33:34 EDT 2009, Recife, Brazil

This is one of the dozen or so ferries that take people across Recife harbor. Two have outboards (one of which is reliable, one isn't), the rest are solely powered by oars.

One day, on a trip across in the ferry with the unreliable outboard, I had the opportunity to row the boat while the owner was cleaning the spark plug to get the engine restarted. The engine did restart, but I'd rowed to the other side by the time it did. The boats are relatively heavy, flat-bottomed wooden boats, and row slowly but surely.

Recife Ferry oar detail
Sun May 24 23:59:00 EDT 2009, Recife, Brazil

No oarlocks, thole pins (sticks of wood) are used instead. The rope that holds the oar to the thole pin goes around the side of the thole pin facing away from the rower.

The black piece on the oar is a length of plastic pipe for chafe protection. The white on the black is just some spilled paint.

The blades of the oars tend to be bolted to the shaft of the oars with a couple of stainless steel bolts.

Recife Approach
Fri May 22 13:39:12 EDT 2009, Recife, Brazil

Recife, just visible in the background, is laid out as a long city, running for several miles along the beach.

Umbrella Boat
Fri May 22 0:01:00 EDT 2009, Recife, Brazil

I guess putting a big umbrella on a boat is a good, cheap way to stay cool in the tropical sun.

This was taken in the entrance to Recife harbor.

Fri Aug 14 4:02:36 EDT 2009 | nick
you could just go for a swim. thats cheaper and better
Working Sailboat in Recife
Thu May 21 14:13:07 EDT 2009, Recife, Brazil

This is a working sailboat in Recife harbor. Many similar rowboats are used for fishing here. They fish mostly by casting nets. Few of the rowboats have added a sail, like this one did.

The rowboats are simple, wooden, flat-bottom craft.

Recife Lighthouse
Wed May 20 10:48:28 EDT 2009, Recife, Brazil

This is the lighthouse at Recife. Recife, a city of 3.6 million people in the northeast of Brazil, has a harbor that is well-protected by an outer reef.

It was an easy, four-day sail from Salvador to Recife.

Wed May 20 18:43:12 EDT 2009 | George Ray
You are getting ready to turn the corner and run down the north coast of SA. WOW! .... Amazon?
Thu May 21 13:58:54 EDT 2009 | Richard Hudson
I'm deciding where to go next....
Maragojiipe street scene
Tue May 12 13:15:00 EDT 2009, Maragojiipe, Bahia, Brasil

Rio Paraguacu sunrise
Sun May 10 11:56:13 EDT 2009, Maragojiipe, Bahia, Brasil

Fog lifting as the sun rises

Children playing on waterfront
Thu May 7 11:45:58 EDT 2009, Maragojiipe, Bahia, Brasil

We had a very brief conversation with the girl in the picture, but you really need to be pretty good at Portuguese to do much talking in rural Brazil.

Fri May 8 20:39:37 EDT 2009 | george Ray
I get the sense that you are way up in the river delta from this picture. How is the water quality? I assume you are in totally fresh water?
Sat May 9 12:44:30 EDT 2009 | Richard Hudson
About 12 miles upriver, as I recall. Still tidal, can't say how salty the water is was still quite salty 4 miles upriver (picture of Issuma at anchor) when we went swimming.

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