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Rio de Janeiro
Fri Jul 31 7:20:47 EDT 2009, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Downtown Rio de Janeiro.

Submarine in Rio
Wed Jul 29 15:53:45 EDT 2009, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

While entering Rio de Janeiro's harbor, this submarine passed in front of the old fort at the entrance.

Wed Jul 29 16:22:11 EDT 2009 | Ben
Hope you didn't have to do a "Crazy Ivan" to avoid the sub!!! LOL
Thu Jul 30 15:32:14 EDT 2009 | george Ray
Can you see the 38 meter tall statue of the Redeemer on the top of Corcavado mountain?
Fri Jul 31 7:19:00 EDT 2009 | Richard Hudson
Not being familiar with submarine detection tactics, I had to look up what a Crazy Ivan maneuver was :).

When there are not low clouds, yes, the statue can be seen.
Cabo Frio
Wed Jul 22 0:00:00 EDT 2009, near Cabo Frio, Brazil

Cabo Frio, which is pretty much the East corner of Brazil (East of Rio de Janeiro), is the peak seen under the mainsail of Issuma.

Cabo Frio (Cold Cape in English) is a place where a lot of deep, cold water is forced to the surface by the action of the currents against the coast. This results in pushing up a lot of plankton and other animals from the deep, which whales and many fish feed on.

Tue Jul 28 9:31:37 EDT 2009 | george Ray
So you are almost to Arraial do Cabo where you will head west and Rio is only about 100 mi. Will be very interested to hear if the water is as crystal clear as the tourist guides claim.

How is the reefing system evolving? The picture does not show the winch(s) but it looks like all reefs are brought to the cockpit. Do you still need to climb on the cabin top?
Wed Jul 29 15:45:46 EDT 2009 | Richard Hudson
As it is now winter in Rio de Janeiro, there are few tourists. Am not sure about the clarity of the water, as where we stayed (Niteroi, in the harbor) it was pretty dirty.

I now have almost all the stuff I need to make it so all reefing is done from the cockpit (just need to install it now). At the moment, the second and third reefs in the mainsail still require getting on the cabintop.
New Winch
Sat Jul 18 0:00:00 EDT 2009, near Cabo de Sao Tome, Brazil

Sailboats generally have one winch for each sheet (a rope that controls a sail once it is up). There were not enough winches on this boat to have one for each sheet. So, when setting the main staysail (voile d'etai), the sheet had to be brought across the cockpit and put on the (windward side) fore staysail (trinquette) sheet winch. While that worked, it meant there was this taut rope across the cockpit, somewhat getting in the way.

I bought a new pair of sheet winches some time ago, and finally got around to installing one of them last week (I wanted to sail with it for a while to be sure I liked the position before installing the other one on the other side). The winch on the left is a Lewmar 55, the one of the right is a Lewmar 48, and the new one in the center is also a Lewmar 48. I was quite surprised when the new winches arrived to find out that the new Lewmar 48s are significantly smaller than the old Lewmar 48s. So I got some long bolts and built up the base with some white plastic so it would be high enough for the winch handle to clear the top of the other winches.

A sailmaker in Itaparica built the sheet bags that hang below the winches. They help to tidy up the cockpit a great deal.

Thu Jul 16 0:00:00 EDT 2009, Brazil

Sailing on the banks in the rain yesterday, many whales were nearby, making it much more interesting to be outside.

Fri Jul 17 12:53:35 EDT 2009 | george Ray
Haw are you finding to to sail inshore along the Brazilian coast? Lots of unlit fishing boats?
Mon Jul 20 14:59:03 EDT 2009 | Richard Hudson
It is difficult to sail inshore along the Brazilian coast. It is much easier farther offshore. Though there are areas without fishing boats (ie, in more than 50m depths), there are a lot of areas with a lot of fishing boats. Some are correctly lit, most of the smaller ones just have a single white fluorescent deck light--nothing else. These are very hard to judge distance from (and don't show up on radar).
Bahian sailboat
Tue Jul 14 0:00:00 EDT 2009, Bahia, Brazil

A similar boat to the one sailing in yesterday's picture.

Note the mast that was made by simply taking the bark off a tree. I never found the crew of this boat to ask what the vertical stakes are for...I suspect they are used to dry fishing nets.

Bahian sailboat
Mon Jul 13 0:00:00 EDT 2009, Bahia, Brazil

Traditional Bahian sailboat beating to windward. I took this picture a few days ago in Bahia de Todos Santos.

The died to nothing yesterday, then came back to a nice force 3 tailwind, with clear skies, lots of stars and a fair-sized moon. Now (morning) the wind is dying away again and the sails are making lots of noise as they flop around with the gentle rolling of the boat.

Rainbow leaving Salvador
Sat Jul 11 0:00:00 EDT 2009, Salvador, Bahia, Brazil

A nice rainbow appeared while leaving Salvador today. The weather was off and on, rain and sun all morning, gradually becoming drier, mostly sunny, and less windy. By night, the waves were much smaller, and the stars and Milky Way poked their way out among the scattered clouds making for a very pleasant sail.

I am sailing south, out of the tropics, towards cooler weather.

Sun Jul 12 10:29:49 EDT 2009 | George Conk
South - to the end of the rainbow?
Mon Jul 20 14:55:04 EDT 2009 | Richard Hudson
Yes, south to the end of the rainbow :)
Sat Jul 4 8:52:52 EDT 2009, Itaparica, Bahia, Brasil

The most uncommon-looking boat at anchor in Itaparica when I arrived was the Research Vessel Heraclitus. Heraclitus was built of ferrocement in California in 1974 and has sailed around the world several times, 250,000 miles in all.

I've long been interested in junk-rigged vessels, and this is the largest (85 feet/26m, 120 tons) and most-sailed junk that I've seen. A friendly crewman from the Solomon Islands showed me around the boat, which, among other things, is equipped with a library of hundreds of books and a large laboratory area. Heraclitus does mostly environmental reseach for various organizations. More information on their website at

Sat Jul 4 22:01:32 EDT 2009 | George Ray
Interesting Junk !!!
Heraclitus Bow
Sat Jul 4 8:51:04 EDT 2009, Itaparica, Bahia, Brasil

Eyes to see where the boat is going :).

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