Grenada...Circumnavigation
11 December 2016
Leaving Tobago, the night passage to Grenada looked wet. Rain squalls crossed in front and behind before finally enclosing around us. Radar images show no escape so biting the bullet and hopefully avoiding the increasingly close lightning strikes we slowly made our way northwest. With two reefs in the main and minimal visibility, lightning strobed across the immediate vicinity with scary regularity briefly illuminating the moonless darkness while we gave thanks that we hadn't been stuck, yet.
Grenada was the point where we 'crossed our track' or the 'take off point' for our circumnavigation some years earlier. Approaching Prickly Bay the 'round the world' was completed and we settled in to familiar environments once again. D' Big Fish had gone, replaced by a newer, trendier and now abandoned bar. Not a cruiser in sight. The anchorage however seemed more crowded than ever and still a little roly but a good place to check in and reacquaint ourselves with the island. Carib beer seemed scarce but the cruisers support network was up and running, informing all and sundry where you could get the last few slabs on the island. I'm sure this was a marketing ploy - no Caribbean island could run dry.
Rolling lost its charm and an alternative anchorage was sought just off St George's, the picturesque historical town, complete with regular cruise ships, street food, vendor stalls, mad minibus drivers, internet top-ups, fish market, steep steep roads, local clothing shops by the hundreds and rum shacks. Downtown Grenada hadn't changed too much. Built on a ridge with the Caribbean Sea on one side and the Carenage/Marina/Yacht Club on the other with old brick former spice warehouses of St George's lining the Carenage. Sandy beaches intersperse the western headlands with resorts, parasols and street vendors where building seems to be on a vast scale while up market developments and palatial houses dot the reef protected southern shores. Cruisers hang out here. In their hundreds. Yachts that have seen better days nestle into the mud while 'snow birds' (northern latitude winter visitors) catch some sun and while away days catching up with friends. Mangrove bounded shores line reef-protected hurricane holes. Endless building plots spring up, mostly underway but some carcasses languish, abandoned before their prime along the steeply sloping shores.
The private island of Calivigny is home to the luxury retreat frequented by the rich and famous. You can stay there from upwards of $20,000 per night (minimum of 4 nights), or anchor off for free! Nevertheless, the anchorage is beautiful with cooling breezes and minimum intrusion of biting insects, so far. The gusty trade winds provide a little entertainment for the water sports enthusiasts while Atlantic Ocean Races (Royal Ocean Racing Club) finish at St George's in good time Canaries to Grenada - multihull - in just over 6 days this year.