Out the far side, there was no breeze at all. We hunted about, tacking off the coast, but even a bit further out, our maximum speed was 0.8 of a knot. We battled on, determined not to lower sail first. This is the competition, stuck in a wind hole but still gallantly sailing.
About an hour later, they furled the genoa and started the engine. We hung on for about 3 minutes - for honour's sake - and then did the same. Our rival went on to Golfo Pero, and we turned into Porto Cervo, playground of the rich and famous, the yachting hub of the Costa Smeralda.