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Roaring Girl
The adventures of the yacht Roaring Girl wandering the seas.
Cooling the legs
05/09/2010

Roaring Girl has been placed quite close to the high brick wall around the Yard. Beyond the wall is a small slipway. Fishing and sports boats use it, but the main occupants are horses.
Trotting and sulky racing is very popular in Malta. It's hard on the legs, so everyday there is a stream of horses brought down here to stand in the cooling seawater.

Places and people
Lovely friends
27/08/2010, Sliema

Months ago we arranged to meet various friends in Valetta over the UK August Bank Holiday, to celebrate Sarah's birthday. Due to various misfortunes and competing arrangements only the lovely Jenny and Liz could make it. They stayed at the Hotel Fortina, with a spectacular view across Marsamxett harbour towards Valetta itself.
The hotel has numerous facilities - restaurants, spa, pools, air-conditioning and showers . They were both exhausted from various emotional maulings over the last year and a half, while we were both hot and in need of chilling. It also became really windy that week, so in the end the four of us spent most of the five days lying around the hotel pools and drinking pretty cocktails. And lovely it was! We're not sure exactly what Jenny's doing in the photo, though: she's not usually a palmreader!
We'll sightsee properly when we are here in the spring. It'll be much more comfortable then.

Places and people
And the museum
17/08/2010

Siracuse is home to an enormous collection of material from the Neolithic onwards. There are rooms of material and its not at all easy to absorb it all. There are no chubby goddesses to gawp at either.
There is this exquisite Aphrodite. She has been controversial for her sensuality and realism, but we thought her beautiful.

Places and people
The archaeological park
17/08/2010

To the west of Siracuse, on the mainland, is the area where the Greeks and Romans established their entertainment complex and ritual centres - temples and theatres. The centrepiece is this massive Greek amphitheatre. Much pillaged by the Romans and then the Spanish, at its height it seated 15,000 on massive tiers of stone carved from the hill, and shaded by awnings. Aeschylus' Etnan Women premiered here. It was the centre of civic life for political events as well.
Also in the park are the quarries, where the stone was dug. This includes two enormous caves, created by the work. One has beautiful acoustics and was christened the Ear of Dionysus (after an important Tyrant, not the bibulous god), by Caraveggio. The other, sadly not open to the public, is the even bigger Ropemakers Cave, favoured for the work as the damp air prevented the rope drying and splitting as it was made.
The Tyrant Heiron II built an enormous temple here for sacrifices to Zeus; there are stories of 450 bulls being killed at one annual festival, but not much now remains above the foundations. Alongside is the Roman amphitheatre. This is smaller, but in its heyday was impressively high. The stage seems quite small compared to the Colisseum, but was obviously big enough for gladiatorial fights and the 'circus' of animal contest. The big tank in the middle is far too small for nautical events, and was probably a drain for the blood.

Places and people
Clear water and papyrus
16/08/2010

A popular spot in the old city is the Fonte Aretusa. This a pretty fresh-water spring, beloved of papyrus plants and ducks, just a few feet from the sea. It has been here since ancient times, and there are many myths about it and the nymph Arethusa after which it is named

Places and people
Cathedrals then and since
16/08/2010

The main Duomo of Siracuse is built on the heights of Ortigia, a site that was already sacred when the Greeks arrived and started a 5th century BC temple to Athena. This building had world-famous decorations, and huge gilded statue of the goddess on the roof, which caught the sun's rays and acted as a beacon for sailors.
The current cathedral, rebuilt after the earthquake, still uses the Doric columns as its skeleton. They are literally in the walls. The internal shape is thus very much that classically proportioned, simple rectangle, and is also spare and dusky. Some Norman columns also still stand, adding a further angularity to the lines. Off to the south side, a number of small chapels have been added, and these are decorated in full Baroque extravagance, with cherubs and friezes and leaves and scrolls and angels and apostles and everything else that could be crammed into the space. You wander from the dim sobriety of the temple to these fantasias and back again as if in a bipolar religious mania.
The façade is Baroque, but as with most of the period's external decoration in Siracuse, it is restrained and formal. The piazza in front of it is beautiful, and pedestrianised so very pleasant. We saw three Guardia pushing an electric cart with a flat battery, which made everybody in the café laugh.

Places and people
The Madonna blesses the waters.
15/08/2010

Every summer we have ended up somewhere exciting for the local ritual of blessing the waters. It often coincides with the Assumption, for example in Nice. But sometimes it's different, as in Northern Spain where St James is invoked. We'd just got the anchor down when it all started. The huge statue is on the back of a commercial tug boat, which came off the quay and did a slow round of the harbour. Around it (and us) was a huge melee of craft -fishing boats, small sports boats, RIBs, three coast guards. No yachts actually followed sadly, but we hooted our foghorns and joined in gleefully. Blessings are always welcome!

Places and people
Entering Siracuse harbour
15/08/2010

This is the magnificent fortress, the Castello Maniace, at the entrance to the Porto Grande of Siracuse. Behind it you see the beginning of Ortigia from the east. This is the 'old town', built on its eponymous island and the ancient heart of the city. In fact, the area was badly shaken by an earthquake in 1693 and rebuilt in beautiful, elegant Baroque.
Siracuse has been high on our list of places to visit. For 250 years the city rivalled Athens in power, and is the only Sicilian town ever to have been a major player across the Mediterranean. Here the Tyrants ruled, followed by the Roman imperium, then the Arabs came back and held the island till the Normans took it away. After them more northern Europeans (Swabians, actually), and then the Spanish, before Garibaldi invaded on his way to the unification of Italy in the mid-nineteenth century. Some Sicilians, allegedly, see Italy as another in this millennial history of foreign occupiers; whether this is fair or not, Sicily has its own language, gastronomy, architecture and volcanoes, but has not the tradition of ardent separatism that characterises Corsica.

Places and people
Fireworks
15/08/2010

This is a big date in southern Europe, when the church celebrates the assumption of the Virgin into heaven. Here, directly after midnight, there was a massive fireworks display. You can see how still it was from the reflection of the explosions in the water, in the bottom part of the picture.
We had a spectacular view from the cockpit, and were astonished that there were no other boats out. Not even little sports boats just out for the display. Fantastic!

Places and people
Powerful women
08/08/2010

These wonderful images belong to pre-nuraghic Sardinia and are several thousand years old. They are described as the 'divine feminine', believed to be goddesses. Their importance is inferred from their positioning and the huge numbers and range of them in significant sites.
Of course there's lots of academic controversy about matriarchy and matrifocal societies, here as elsewhere. In particular, surely someone has written about the changing representations of women in this archaeological record. From these majestic, passive figures, there seems an abrupt transition to the energy of the bronze statuettes. But there's also a change from these powerful images to pictures of women that are either mundane (the breast displaying camp-follower) or passive in another way. One of the most famous statuettes is a beautiful tiny figure of a woman with her dead son across her knees, as if in a pieta brought about by war or vendetta. Despite their vigour and impact, these women do not have the sense of control offered by their predecessors. Later came the Carthaginians, and then the Romans; sculpture becomes more representational and women take their place amongst more familiar images of home, deity and imperial power.
We loved these ancient women, their stature and solidity. Some are big, maybe 60cm high, but others are tiny. The three dimensional Buddha-figures are detailed and charismatic. By contrast the angular, proto-cubist statues are like alien representations of power.



Places and people
Bronzes and more
08/08/2010, National Archaelogical museum, Cagliari

The famous bit of the archaeology here is the nuraghic bronzes, the many wonderful statuettes made in bronze found in nuraghic sites all over the island. They are full of verve, archers and soldiers, animals of all kinds, hieratic figures armed and praying, while others wear mysterious hats as if walking the dusty roads of inland China.

Places and people
Ancient Sardinia
26/07/2010, Nuraghe Santu Antine

There are an astonishing 7000 nuraghi and other pre-historic structures dotting the Sardinian landscape. These constructions, including menhirs, complex graves, sanctuaries and the famous towers form part of the view as much as the towers of mediaeval churches punctuating the flat lands of East Anglia. A nuraghe is basically a round tower, but as the centuries went by, they became increasingly complex, often with additional, smaller towers around the central one, connected by curtain walls, containing wells. Essentially they are castles, built thousands of years before feudal Europe discovered the need for such things.
One of the best preserved is Santu Antine near Torralba; there are some more pictures in the album. The complex sits in the middle of pasture and hay fields, the next tower in clear sight a few miles away. In the picture above we are on the top of the central tower, which was originally about 80 feet and three storeys high. The separate floors are still obvious inside, with various mysterious niches, slitted windows and high stairs. There are then three two-storey towers connected by thick walls. Tunnels run inside the walls, which with light and plaster would be high, narrow corridors. Around the main nuraghe were about ten huts.
These complex constructions started to be built in the early Bronze Age, in 1800-1500BC, and continued through to the early Iron Age, in 900-500BC, Santu Antine's main central tower going up in around 1600BC. This makes the heavy, dressed stones that make the upper layers all the more remarkable.
Nuraghi were obviously defensive in nature, in a society which has seen millennia of local warfare and vendetta. Their spiritual and social context is much less well understood. Such buildings obviously required organisation and direction, but whether the builders worked in any sense co-operatively, or were serfs driven by overlords, isn't known. They left buildings and statues and bronze pieces, but not writing.
It s clear that there was trading and cross-cultural fertilisation between Sardinia and other cultures, for example the similarity of Santu Antinu to Mycenean Tiryns, or bronze grave gifts that are very similar to work from Minos and Cyprus.
The nuraghe is a strange place, filled with wind and time. They are so old, so much mirror and maker of the landscape, have seen so much and yet held their secrets. We scrambled around, nattering about history, memory and imagination, finding it almost impossible to see what life had been like in this stone pile, surrounded by rich farmland and constant enmity.
This was the highlight of a couple of days car-touring. We made ourselves car-sick on the beautiful twisty roads of the centre of Sardinia, but enjoyed visiting some of the smaller centres. Nouro is particularly nice, with a sweet old town. It is the birthplace of Nobel laureate, novelist Grazia Deledda. It now prides itself as a home to makers, artists and writers and we saw some good, original work, particularly in ceramics.

Places and people

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