We retraced our steps to Ta Anga and turned inland. This is also a rather splendid main road, with fantastic views across to Ruapehu and Tongariro. We turned off on to the unsealed Hauturuturu (haw-tru) road, which twists 35km through the hills. And they are fantastic hills, filled with limestone outcrops, and secret streams meandering through valleys.
Most of this road we didn't see another soul. Until we crossed the path of the Kawhia safari, a two-day four-wheel drive club event. Fortunately, they stopped off at Te Koraha a tiny hamlet on the road and we were alone again.