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Roaring Girl
The adventures of the yacht Roaring Girl wandering the seas.
A rather larger vessel
19/08/2008, Passage to St Raphael

We all took the 1230 ferry across to St Raphael. This is very simple: it leaves from the quay outside the 'new port' (the marina for ordinary sized boats), and you pay on board. (?'?13 one way, ?'?22 return). It wasn't particularly crowded, although the jetty itself is rather a scrum.
In St Raphael, you get a bus to Nice airport. The maps of the town, including the one displayed outside the TIC, show the Gare Routiere (bus station) outside the Gare SNCF. Hah! That's been demolished and is still being rebuilt. The bus station is back down at the Vieux Port, on the opposite side from the ferry.
Even with that diversion Fiona and Melanie caught the 1400 airport express with ease, and we got a text confirming their safe arrival in London. They managed to collect the full set: boat (x3), bus, plane, train (DLR) and tube.
We caught the ferry back, brought a few provisions in the local little supermarket and treated ourselves to drinks in the Hotel Sube. The first floor bar is bang in the middle of the Vieux Port quayside, but remarkably quiet, and has fabulous yacht photos all around the walls. Definitely the best place for a drink in the tawdry vulgarity that marks most of the town.
Our plan now is to wait out the south-westerly (blowing as we write this on Wednesday afternoon), which would give us a beat to the Lies adhere. If the forecasts are right, we will head back to Port Man tomorrow for a last weekend at anchor. From there, on Monday we will sidle round to Plage de la Courtade, where we will ring the port in Toulon to see if our high hopes of a berth there are confirmed. If they are, we will tie up next week in our winter berth, before returning to the UK for Sarah to start her temporary job in South London on 2 September. That will mark the end of 18 months in which we have spent all but three travelling, and allow us to replenish our depleted coffers.

Places and people
The high life
19/08/2008, St Tropez

We finally found a spot in this busy anchorage, about a kilometre east of the entrance to the port of St Tropez. The anchorage is full of super yachts, and quite deep. So far it's been very comfortable, save for wash, though it is quite open to the north east.
Fiona and Melanie invited us out for dinner, to celebrate Sarah's birthday. We went to a good Provencal restaurant called Table du Marche in Rue Georges Clemenceau, and can thoroughly recommend it! We were very full, as well as enjoying cocktails and two excellent bottles of wine. Unaccustomed luxury: thanks to the two of them.
We also discovered that there is a water taxi in St Tropez (not mentioned in the Pilot book, possibly because it's ?'?40 every trip, though the boat can take about 8 people.) Ring on 06 12 40 28 05. Pretty good English spoken. This took the worry out of a potential trip home in Bridget in the dark, and gave us unaccustomed rides in very fast ribs, which were great fun.
On Tuesday morning, there were candles in the fresh baguettes to accompany a very nice bottle of champagne - a great way to start the day!

Places and people
A fab sail
18/08/2008, Across the Golfe de Frejus

From Theoule, we needed a landfall from which Fiona and Melanie could get back to Nice airport for their flight on Tuesday afternoon. A call to the Office de Tourisme confirmed this was possible from St Tropez, taking the ferry to St Raphael and the bus from there. Cap Dramont, just west of the Rade d'Agay was the decision point.
When we got to that point, the cruising chute was up, pulling beautifully, the wind was on the beam, and we couldn't get any answer out of the marinas at St Raphael. Pip made some very good sandwiches and an excellent champagne cocktail, and we headed across the Golfe. It was a splendid sail; only about 12 miles, but we went like the clappers with the cruising chute set well, making a steady six knots. Pip and Melanie took the opportunity to snooze, while Sarah & Fiona tweaked sails, talked navigation and had a fab time.
The champagne cocktail, incidentally, was a variation on our Port St Louis favourite, and has been christened Soupe de Champagne Chinoise. It uses fizzy lychee liqueur in place of the more usual Cointreau.

Life on Roaring Girl
A wee bop
17/08/2008, Theoule

Queen and Abba booming on deck gave us a good time. After a meal we went ashore to sample to bars of Theoule. A slight petrol oversight meant we rowed back, giggly in the dark to where Roaring Girl lay in absolute calm under the sheltering hills.

Life on Roaring Girl
Back to Theoule
17/08/2008, Theoule

After lunch the wind had freshened and we only used the engine to power the windlass, sailing neatly down the rest of the channel to the west. Our original intention was to go to Rade d'Agay, at the foot of the Esterel Massif. However, the wind was hard on the nose and kicking up a little swell. As both our visitors, unused to the cradling touch of the Middle Sea, had felt a touch of discomfort from earlier swell, we turned away and headed back to our old anchorage of Theoule. Even so, on a close reach, we tucked in a reef (that new sail giving significant extra drive) and a few furls in the genoa, for a comfortable, and fast hour west-north-west across the Golfe de la Napoule.
Here our visitors had a thorough chill-out.

Life on Roaring Girl
Ile de la Tradeliere
17/08/2008, Iles Lerin

From Antibes, with very little wind, we motorsailed round Cap d'Antibes to the Iles Lerin. From the eastern end, we sought the passage between Ile St Marguerite and Ile St Honorat. Off the end of Ile St Marguerite is the Ile de la Tradeliere, site of notable Roman wrecks. You can see why: this low-lying saw-toothed rack of rocks barely deserves the name of island. It's not well marked: unless we knew the waters =we wouldn't come this way in the dark.
Once past it, however, the narrow channel between the islands is well marked (though we didn't see any lights on the buoys.) The channel at one point is only 6m deep. Many yachts are anchored outside, it, especially to the north side, and we ourselves found a spot in 11m of water. It was very full, being the Sunday lunchtime of a bank holiday weekend, and there was quite a bit of wash, but we all swam and enjoyed a great quiche Pip had made the night before.

Life on Roaring Girl
Eruptions in Haute Provence?
16/08/2008, Antibes

From Nice we had a pleasant sail west, back to the Anse de la Salis off Antibes. Down went the new Rocna. The first time we don't think we gave it enough time, but it certainly bit the second time. Fiona and Sarah went swimming; the water was cooler than last time we were there, but still had that silkiness peculiar to this bay.
That night we had this amazing sunset over the hills, followed by firework spectaculars in both Antibes and St Laurent.

Places and people
Painted Pointus
15/08/2008, Nice

Many of these traditional boats are painted with designs of all kinds: here with Mediterranean fish. He worked hard, this guy as he must have circled the harbour about four times, rowing all the way.
Melanie took this picture, as she did many more over the next few days.

Places and people
Festival of the Assumption
15/08/2008, Nice

From Menton, on Thursday, we had another nice sail back towards Nice. We looked at anchoring off St Jean, but again didn't like the feel of the wind. Clearly, we're not fated to spend much time there. Instead, we went back to the Rade for the night, where we anchored comfortably. In the evening the jellyfish went away and we swam, both then and on Friday morning.
We really wanted to get into Nice marina. For one thing, a nasty south westerly was forecast. Secondly, Liz had a plane to catch, and we were meeting Fiona and Melanie from their flight. And thirdly, our new anchor was in their capitainerie.
It took some pleading, some citing of all these circumstances, but the lovely people at Bassin Lympia found us a space, and we tied up just after 1100. Pip took Liz off to the airport (extra time being needed for the buses on a bank holiday), while Sarah tidied up, checked all the lines and made sure everything was secure. As she left, the wind was already blowing 42 knots, kicking up breaking waves inside the marina. Eventually, our neighbours said, they saw over 50 knots, but the boats were all very secure.
By the time we got back with Fiona and Melanie, the storm was over and the traditional pointus boats were able to circle the harbour on time for the celebrations of the Assumption of the Virgin. A big statue of her circled around, along with several other boats, all decked in lovely flowers.
As you can see, big crowds gathered on the opposite dock, including for the Mass celebrated there afterwards. We had pole, if irreligious positions in our own boat, with celebratory glasses of Provencal rose in hand.

Places and people
So pink, dahling!
13/08/2008, Monaco

They also have these uber-camp sofas. Irresistible!

Places and people
Queens of Egypt
13/08/2008, Monaco

To the eastern end of Monaco is the relatively new Grimaldi Forum, a purpose built exhibition hall and conference centre, currently housing the huge exhibition about the Queens of ancient Egypt, from the earliest times to the last Cleopatra. It was a fascinating show, pulling together material from all over the world into a dazzling parade of jewellery, religious objects, statues and paintings, all illustrating the real power held by these women.
The Forum has a stonking bar too, overlooking the sea, with these glorious clam shell seats to serve as double thrones.

Places and people
Superyachts galore
13/08/2008, Port of Monaco

We walked down to the Port Hercule, the marina in central Monaco. It is as you imagine, full of astonishing superyachts to gawp at, multi-story motorboats filled with luxury. The one comfort obviously not prized by their owners is privacy; they berth stern to, inviting the oohs and aahs of the crowds at their sofas, full-scale trees, multiple satellite domes, heli-pads and so on.
As in St Tropez, many sport versions of the red ensign, with the Cayman Islands and Isle of Man dominating. But you see a few with the sun of the Marshall Islands (Pacific), and several with the blue, yellow and green of St Vincent and the Grenadines (Atlantic Ocean). Of course these big yachts are professionally crewed and travel the world to suit their owner's convenience.

Places and people

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Who: Pip Harris and Sarah Tanburn
Port: Ipswich
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