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The Voyage of 'S/V Röde Orm' - Sweden
Come on board and take part in our adventures while exploring the world at the slow pace of a sailing boat. We left in June 2009, heading south to escape the northern winter... to start with. Currently in Algarve/Portugal taking it one day at a time.
A Rainy Day
09/17/2009, Ria de Corme y Laxe Corme N 43,15-W 08,57

Yesterday our new galley pump arrived. The staff at the chandlery were very helpful and the parcel arrived exactly as said. Impressive. The often commented 'Manana' attidtude is something we haven't encountered at all. On the contrary, the Spanish are helpful, interested and very pleasant to deal with all in all. (at least that goes for the people in Galicia)

Yesterday we had the Customs visit us too. Three uniformed gentlemen in a RIB. Even they were very polite and correct and we had a quite amusing chat while they briefly overlooked our documentation. Apparently they are busy during the winter season with refugees trying to enter Spain, Mostly Maroccans as I understood it. We were allowed to stay, maybe an advantage of the European Union.

Yesterday night we were invited to a birthday party on board 'Zephyr' from Jersey, who were anchored close by. We first met them in Ria Vivero and had a quick chat there. They are on the same route as us basically, so we'll probably see them around from time to time. A very entertaining evening with Steve, Colin and Danielle.
Thank you so much and welcome onboard 'Röde Orm' the next time we'll see you!

it was raining during last night, it rained on and off in the morning and then it just poored down all evening and night. At least 55 mm of rain in a bucket in the cockpit. Shocking, since we haven't had a drop in at least a month iIIRC. Add no wind and a three meter swell and this was not a day to remember for great sailing. All of you who have been on the water no what I am talking about here.

The Iron Genny had to work during the approx. 30 miles to the westsouthwest where our chosen stop was. A smaller Ria with one litlle fishng harbour each side of it. Corme and Laxo. Corme is protected against the N and E so was our choice for the night. In the poor visibility we could just about get an impression of the town and it's surroundings. Must be very pretty on a clear day.

We anchored inside the breakwater and spent the remains of the evening arranging all our wet gear in the cabin trying to get it dry with the aid of oil lamps.

Things we wished we had brought...
09/15/2009, La Coruna

...before we took off.


Oatmeal (swe: havregryn) and müsli. Impoosible to find oatmeal in France or Spain adn all the müsli has sugar and chocolate added to it. NOT FOR BREAKFAST! Please... so what am I having for breakfast then? Bread, toasted beside the coffeepot on the stovetop of course! with butter and marmelade. This is OK, but those occassional mornings when I discover that we are out of bread and NOT in the mood to bake. Or in a hurry to get under sail, go with the tide and so on...

So the advice, to people who, like me are addicted to that stuff, bring as much as you can carry!

Isabelle : Given that she s french, and they arguably have the best food in the world, the kist woud simply be too long for a blog about sailing. I'll give her the tip to write a book about it. That book would be a best seller.

Fortunately, since we left France just a couple of weeks ago, we still carry a few 'survival packs' of cheese, foi gras, pat'e etcetera, but they won't last that long.

That said, there is lot of good food around here too. especailly the fish- and seafood departments are nice in 'los supermercados' and there are a great variety of cheese and salami style sausages. And teh best thing last - the 'jamón curado' The ham, dried and salted. No better ones to be found on the planet I believe. 'Pata Negra' and 'Serrano' are not the only brands, there arre a plentiful. Unfortunaely they are as expensive here as they were in Sweden, but one lives just once, erh?

Waiting for parts
09/14/2009, La Coruna

Some wise person said: 'cruising is doing boat maintenance in exotic places' and by God, he/she was spot on.

If I may say so myself, we did a quite thorough job on Röde Orm before we left Sweden. In addition to this, we carry a lot of spares. Engine speres, tools, material to do at least provisional repairs at sea or in 'out of the way' places.

And still -after a mere 1600 miles and a couple of months on the move, we have not only found a couple of more things to put on the 'to do'-list but also a simple breakdown where we where without spares.

We have 2 manual bilge pumps on board and repair kits (gaskets and valves) for both. The same goes or the head(toilet in 'landlubberish). We've also got three footpumps for water on board. In the galley (kitchen in landlubberish) on each for fresh- and seawater respectively and another fresh water pump i the head. I was certain we had repair kits for those too. Not so, I discoverd after digging everything stored in three cockpit lockers out. Almost one cubic meter of 'stuff'.

Thats the reason we will have to stay two more nights in La Coruna in an uncomfortable anchorage with wakes from ferries, freighters, fishong vessels and tug boats around the clock.

The bonus is obviously that we'll have time to see a bit more of the town. We are reluctant to leave the boat unattended for more than a couple of hours in the morning though. In the afternoon there is usually a fresh Force 5-6 and the depth is over 20 meters gproviding a less than satisfactory scope on the anchor rode. We've got 60 meters of chain +40 meters of line out. More than that is not possible since the boat could swing too close to the channel.

And the other repairs, wonders the observant reader...?

The wooden members at the stern of the boat, where the windvane is arrached, need to be reinforced, since they are not providing a solid enough base for tha attachment points of the wind vane gear. (This is the mechanical self-steering device). The most important crew member onboard, probably. The vane also needs new lines, since the old ones are staring to show signs of chafe. This little project, together with some electrical installations (newly bought cabin lights) will wait until we reach Lisboa. We will stay there for a while anyway since Isabelle's PC has broke down despite a new hard drive i n the UK, and we will also investigate the price level there for ordering a dodger(sprayhood) Since we will be mostly coast hopping on our way down there we'll do fine withour using the wind vane more than occassionally.

There's always something to tend too, thus no risk for boredom

Not just relaxing...
09/11/2009, Ria de Ares

but actually working. In truth, the living expenses are lower now when we live onboard and cruise. But we do need 'douhg' for food, fuel, marina fees, an occassional dinner at restaurant and miscellaneous small boat related expenses that do add up.

So, at anchor and with access to wifi, I am trading on the financial markets. this week I have been sitting in the cabin in front of my computer from 9AM to 10.30 PM. first the swedish exchange and then the NYSE. Phew, I do sleep well at night after a working day like that.

Thought I had to share this with you, so you won't think that we're on a never-ending vacation.... in fact, we are better off than that in my opinion. We ar on an open-ended life-style journey.

Trully, earning a living as a stock market trader/private investor is no for everyone. For me, it seems like the perfect occupation living on a boat. The only thing I need is the internet and a computer... yeah, my head obviously :-D

The weather is warm and sunny mot of the time, but the wind outside our sheltered Ria is in the 25.35 knot range( 6-7 B) so it is a good opportunity to try and top up the cruising kitty. Today, it's Friday, and we would like to go to La Coruna to explore this medieval town in the weekend.

Relaxing at anchor
09/08/2009, Ria de Ares

Dense fog in the morning. The other boats in the anchorage were no longer visible. 25-30 meters visibilty. Well, a slow and lazy morning is nice too. Unfortunately the fog seem to have a detrimental effect on the wifi waves. No reception now, even though it was fine last night. Same phenomena as in Ria de Cedeiro. So, now almost statistically proven.

Tea, and freshly baked (last night) bread is an enjoyable star of a new day, even without news and weather over the internet. The forecast last night revealed weak and variable winds for today, and tomorrow and Thursday NE Force 5-6 (20 -30 knots or 9-13 m/s).

Still foggy after lunch as can be seen in the photo. We diecided to hang around here a couple of days. Maybe we'll make a bus trip to La Coruna. we don't need or want to get 'stuck' in an expensive marina again for a few days while blow will pass through. This anchorage is provides good shelter and holding and the shore is a mere cable or too away.

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Who: Magnus & Isabelle
Port: Falsterbo -Sweden
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