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The Voyage of 'S/V Röde Orm' - Sweden
Come on board and take part in our adventures while exploring the world at the slow pace of a sailing boat. We left in June 2009, heading south to escape the northern winter... to start with. Currently in Algarve/Portugal taking it one day at a time.
Ria de Arousa - Caraminal
09/23/2009

A couple of quiet but enjoyable days here. Yesterday, I tended to the engine for a few hours in the morning after which we took to shore to get some fresh provisions. A beer at a local bar just when people started to show up in the streets again after their siesta and then dinner on board.

Today, the maintenance job was with the wind vane (mechanical self steering equipment. An extremely imortant equipment on board especially since we do not have an electronic auto pilot. The pipes that should keep the vane gear firmly attached to the aft deck, has recently become less than firm and thus needed some reinforcements. The loads are impressive on these parts due to the impact of the waves and the movement of the boat through the seas. This kept me busy for most of the day in the cockpit with the tools spread all over it. It was a dead calm day with a little more than 30 degrees C, so I can't deny that I was a fair bit hot.

After cleaning up the mess, and myself, we rowed ashore again for a beer at a bar with Wifi. There hasn't been possible here to get internet access from the boat, so it was good to catch up on e-mails and some news. Dinner on board as usual.

Wind! -At least some.
N 42.36 W 08,56
09/21/2009, Ria de Arousa - Caraminal

Force 3-4 NE forecasted and we eighed anchor soon after breakfast. Sunny and nice with the Atalntic Ocean flat as a livingroom floor as far as one could see. We made 3-4,5 knots under sail until noon, then the wind turned variable and very light. Sailing and motoring on/off for the remains of the day. We made good some 40 miles to enter the largest if the Rias, Ria de Arousa 15 miles long and 7 wide. A cruising ground in itself according to Reeds. Well, we dropped the hook at 8.30PM just outside the marina/fishing harbour/commercial port combo. A local fiesta opposite the port provided us with musical entertainment until midnight. We are looking forward to explore this area a few days since the high pressure system that covers a huge part of the Atlantic at the moment, from the Acores to France will stay around for a while providing light and variable winds.

A Day in the town, a calm Sunday
09/20/2009, Ria de Corcubion, Galicia

We decied to stay here until tomorrow. We slept quite (a bit too) long in the morning and just didn't feel like 'hitting the road' again today. Instead, we did some small stuff on the boat and read a while before taking the dinghy to shore after lunch. We spent the whole afternoon walkng around town. Sunday, siesta time, so we hardly saw anyone. Not too many boaters/tourists come here I guess. Because everyone said 'Buenos Dias' or 'Hola' and some asked where we are coming from. We are the only visiting boat anchored off the city wharf too.

Quiet evening in the cabin, tomorrow we will 'move a bit south' again. we are like migrating birds, escaping the northern winter. I must admit that if feeels good to be in T-shirt, shorts and sandals when I consider the usual weather in late September back in Sweden. At least two weekends usually are cold, windy and rainy and less agreable for sailing.


A Sunny Day
09/19/2009, Ria de Corcubion N 42,56 - W 09,11

After Rain comes sun as the saying goes. And at noon the sky was mostly blue and we weighed anchor. Before doing so, we rowed ashore and provisioned food and local wine at a near by 'supermercado' . Best to take advantage of the relatively short walking distance to buy 'heavy stuff' I e wine and canned food. Mostly 'mejillones' (mussels) and 'pulpa en su tinto' (octopus in it's ink) which we really love. Talking about mejillones, they were found in large numbers where we landed the dinghy. As it was low tide, I could not withstand the temptation to pick a good kilogram of the smaller ones for lunch. Yummy!

The only thing that was less than perfect today, was the lack of wind. Thus, motoring. Again. But it was quite enjoyable on a flat sea, To pass 'Finisterre' (land's end) the end of the known world for the Romans and Europe's most western cape I believe. The Romans might have been well organiszed and fierce warriors, but they were by no means seafarers, originally a small tribe from the Alps. When we passed by this rugged, rocky and several hundred meters high Cape, I could almost sea the roman legions - for my inner sight- marching to the end of this peninsula. Stopping, shrugging their shoulders when they found 'just water', and then turning eastwards again.

So did we. turn eastward that is... Finisterre is a 3 mile long peninsula stretching from North to south and inside another of these beatiful Galician Rias opened ahead of our bow. Ria de Corcubión, where we dropped anchor in some 20 feet of water a good hour before dinner time. Dinner time for us is usullay around 7.30-8 PM, french dinner time more or less. Here isn Spain, dinner time would typically be 9-9.30 PM.

A Foggy Day
09/18/2009, Ria de Camarinas N 43,08 - W 0,11

13 degrees C in the morning. We have been spoiled the last montth or so, with ever lasting sun and warmth. Time to go south (or fire up the cabin heater) We choose to continue south. Very light and variable winds forecasted for today, and that was correct. We woke up in a wrapping of dense fog. Later in the morning it seemed to lift at sea even if it linguered inside the ria and over the mountains of course. At 11 AM we decided to go around 20 miles to the next Ria expecting to motor most of the way but since it's not that far...

This part of the coast is called 'Costa del Muerto' (coast of death). In bad conditions it' must be a scary coast to be approaching, but the name emanates from history. This was one of many places on earth, where the locals lit fires at night i stormy weather so causing the sailing ships to believe that the fire was (the origi of lighthouses) showing the safe entrance. When the ship got wrecked, the locals took whatever they could salvage, often killing the surviving sailors in the process. A horrifying grim act by today's standards, but nevertheless quite common in many parts of the world in the past.

During the day we passed 'Cabo Villano' (Cape Evil) and tomorrow we expect to succesfully pass 'Finisterre' (land's end) - the most westerly point of Spain - before going south to the 'Rias Bajas' (lower Rias) before crossing the border to Portugal.

The fog came back after an hour or so, and we practised radar navigation again, motoring inside a confined universe of humidity and a very narrow horizon of water, often a mere 50 meter away.

Much to enhance our overall mood, the fog lifted magically when we entered Ria de Camarinas. The entrance is straightforward, epecially compared to most landfalls in Swedish waters and the anchor sooon landed in 6,5 meter of water inside the breakwater again.

The remains of the day was spent, changing galley pump with united force, and then renovating the old one. despite being the same make, they obviously didn't fit exactly the same hole pattern. Anyone who has experienced this ?? ;-)

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Who: Magnus & Isabelle
Port: Falsterbo -Sweden
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