11/01/2009, Enseada de Sagres//Cabo de Vincente
As said before, one morning one just wakes up knowing that it is time to heave anchor. Today was such a morning. Southbound for the Algarve coast, 60 miles around Portugals SW point - Cabo Sao Vincente- and then into the sheltered anchorage at Enseada de Sagres. The only thing we knew about the town of Sagres before arrival was that the name of it has been lent to one of the biggest beer-brands in the country.
After several windless days, we were naturally hoping for a decent breeze to sail south, and the forecast suggested around 10 knots of wind from the Northerly quarter which seemed fine.
We took off just after dawn after a quick breakfast. Soon enough the skies became totally overcast, dispite the mighty high pressure system, and I started to suspect that the calm we experienced in the morning was going to sustain during most of the day. It did. Around 3 PM a blue 'hole' between the gray skies showed up, and provided just enough wind for us to be able to hoist sail and move along at around four knots, allowing the engine to rest a while. Shortly after, the wind decreased and the boat speed dropped to just above 2 knots. going dead downwind, with some 3-4 meter swells and all of you who have been at sea in a sailing boat know exactly what I am talking about. We fired up the iron genny again to posssibly arrive before dusk. Not to long after this, a dense big cloud passed further offshore. A typical squall, that made the wind pick up again and allowed the engine to rest and 'Röde Orm' to move along at 5-ish knots despite the fact that we - out of sheer lazyness- flew too little canvas, since there were a mere 5 miles left to our waypoint.
We entered the anchorage a little less than an hour after dark, together with 'Zephyr', with whom we mad company all day along. The picture of 'Röde Orm' under sail is taken by Steve on 'Zephyr'. They got some really nice wind from the cloud by the way, and came rocketing under their spinnaker shortly before we passed cabo Sao Vincente. Well done!
is fun. We trail a couple of lines most of the time underway and occassionally we have caught a maquerel or two to add FRESH fish to the menu.
Yesterday we got a most polite and kind information that we were not allowed to do so within Portuguese waters (12 miles offshore). The police came over in their RIB just as I was frantically trying to catch maquerel in the anchorage after discovering a school moving around the boat. They told me, that without a license one could get fined Euro 500 (!) for fishing. We soon agreed that the tiny maquerel wasn't worth that, and I stowed away the fishig gear. They also said that the license was simply to expensive to be of any interest for a crusing boat passing through Portuguese waters.
Given that in Sweden 'hobby' fishing is free in the Sea, I must admit that I couldn't imagine that was ot the cas everywhere... stupid maybe, but now I know better. In retrospect, we saw lots of small boats with people out fishing close to the shore in Galicia, but none of it here in Portugal, so....
One get to learn new things every day.
At some point, one morning after breakfast, one just feels it is time to heave anchor. After all, we are cruising and thus don't want to find our boat on a cover picture of a local tourist brochure...
So, the 26th, last Monday, we moved the twenty-odd miles south to Sesimbra, where we just anchored for teh night. The dinghy deflated on deck, we didn't bother to go on shore. The Portuguese Northerlies are still illusive, so we motored all the way.
The morning after I woke up fairly early noticing a decent breeze making the rigging sing in a very promising way. Quick breakfast and off we went.
Close-hauled on a port tack we made 6,5 knots in the 10-12 knots of wind for an hour or so. The wind slowly decreased but we made decent headway until after lunch when the wind died. The last couple of hours we had to rely on the iron genny once again to enter Sines before dusk. Again, we anchored close by 'Zephyr' and shared a glass of wine with them in 'röde Orm's' cockpit before dinner.
Vasco da Gama was born in Sines, a very lively fishing port, and we'll go on shore tomorrow to see what kind of trace he left.
The winds will stay very light and variable o couple of days, but on Friday afternoon they will turn North and keep blowing at 10-15 knots over the weekend. To be experienced before believed!
Since it was closed (Monday) the last time we were in Lisbon, and we have had it strongly recommended from several 'reliable sources' we thought it well worthwhile to make the train trip to Lisbon omce again.
The people who recommended it was right. No doubt about it. Reputedly the largest maritime museum in the world it was very interesting. First, all the Portuguese discoverers and seafarers of their history. Vasco da Gama, Magelhan, Labrador and Albuerquerque just to mention those I know best. Their history was at display with a huge map of their voyages. Extremely well crafted models of the different tall ships used by them and the Portuguese Navy and lots of artefacts of all kinds.
Perhaps the most interesting part of the Museum was the annex where they had some 25-30 (!) vessels at display. everything from smaller fishing boats to yachts (including a swedish built 'Tumlaren') and the 'Royal Galley'. The latter was the most spectacular of them all as you can see from some picctures I uploaded to the Gallery. 19 pairs of oars, thsi long and sleek river boat was literally covered in gold, velvet cushions and carvings, some of them in ebony. This vessel was used as lately as in the 1950's before permanently laid up here.
Strong recommendation for any one who might read this and later visit Lisbon.
that's true. And then came rain again. And after that weak variable winds mostly from the south.... so we'll spend anotther day or two reading below decks I reckon. Maybe the forecast will be more encouraging after the weekend!?
Today's picture was taken in January in Falsterbo, Sweden. facing north toward the bridge between Sweden and Denmark.
Just as a perspective...