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The Voyage of 'S/V Röde Orm' - Sweden
Come on board and take part in our adventures while exploring the world at the slow pace of a sailing boat. We left in June 2009, heading south to escape the northern winter... to start with. Currently in Algarve/Portugal taking it one day at a time.
To Estonia meeting Seals and the Border Guard
07/27/2008, Srve, Saarenmaa, Estonia (sel)

We decided to undertake the leap to ?-sel (Saarenmaa in Estonian) approximately 100 miles to Eastward. ?-sel is the next largest ialand in the Baltic Sea and although it as once been a part of Sweden, it's Estonian nowadays.

We left at 11 AM and the sailing was superb ! A close-hauled leg at som 2-18 knots of wind. The sailing was so great in fact that I, who generally never hand steer more than absolute necessary, sat at the wheel until midnight. 13 hours in a row, must be a sort of personal record. Exhilirating as it was, it obviously had to see an end. Around three AM in the morning the wind died out. Again. Dead calm. For five hours we were becalmed, and the swell was such as to give us but little rest in our bunks.

8AM the wind started to pick up a bit again, and soon the sails were hoisted.It took us until the afternoon to make it round the southern point of ?-sel, by the lighthouse Srve. Since we were tired by now we didn't feel like pressing on in the very light breeze. Instead we anchored on the eastern side of a sand reef south of the light house. This gave us good protection from the waves, and the wind was predicted to continue from NW and light too.

A little while after our arrival, two men in green uniforms and high rubber boots in the hot weather came towards us in tiny boat with an outboard. They turned out to be the Border Police and claimed to do a routine control. After briefly lookiing through our papers, and asking where we came from and where we were heading next theu took off again. I guess that either they never saw a boat anchor at this potentially exposed spot before, or they just thought it would be fun to take a closer look at us.

A little while later, after I had taken a short swim from the boat to freshen up a bit, we got another couple of visitors. No offense to the Estoninan officails, but these newcomers were really welcome. A very curious baby Gray Seal were playing around the boat for ten minutes, watching us closely like he was trying to figure us out. Then he disappeared only to be back a little while later with his Mum. They both examined us and Rde Orm carefully, and dived around the boat for a while before they got bored, or hungry, or whaever, and disappeared.

In the evening the wind increased and veered to north, thus making our anchorage very unpleasant due to the choppy seas that had us rolling heavily all night long. exhausted as we were, we slept fine anyway.

The pilot's watch
07/26/2008, Bunger, Frsund

Hot. I spent the whole morning own below tinkering with a 12/220 V inverter, installing a depth sounder and the likes. Uploaded photos and wrote some blogg entrys.

After a minor provisioning in the town, we motored the few miles over the strait to Bunger, an old Pilot's watch facing the open sea Eastrwards.

Lauterhorn, Fr and a BBQ
07/25/2008, Frsund

We sailed the 15 miles remaining to Frsud where we took a mooring bouy at the boat club. 'Rute Btklubb'.

This meant that we had to tack u couple of times, life is hard at times, mind you!

After a trip to the local Chandler for a few of the ever present odds and ends that needs attention on a cruising boat, and some chats with the local sailors we prepared for a major event.

Just north of here, on the adjacent island of Fr,my old school mate Erik lives since 12 years.

He was so kind and invited us to a BBQ with some of his friends, right on the beach. Grilled salmon, homemade potatoe salad and even a cake with the coffee. Stylish!

Before eating though, he drove us to the western shore, where the largest Rauk field is. More than 10 km long and with thousands of Rauks at different size. From a meter or two, to twenty m,eters high and in all kinds of shapes. In this 'moon landscape' we climbed and walked for half an hour, a bizarre but very nice experience.

Thanks a lot for a superb evening Erik!

P.S. I forgot my camera on board, so unfortunately no pics of this event D.S.

Small steps towards Fr
07/23/2008, Enholmen, Fjaugen

A slow but very enjoyable downwind sail in some 6 knots of wind, sometimes less, took us to Enholmen just at the inlet to Slite. A busy port for celcium and cement, it was considered so important for the country that Enholmen was heavily fortified during the 1700's to protect Slite against Danish or Russian intruders.

The fort was obsolete before finsished, much in the same way as the Danish island of Christianopel in the S baltic.

Very interesting to see though.

23rd July

A nice 4 hours of beating to windward saw us anchor outside Fjaugen, an islet with very interesting nature and a ruin, reminding of the ancient Greece perhaps.... Much more prosaic than that, it used to be apartment for the workers at the stone 'plant' that once was busy here

A Thunderstorm and a meeting with a Pilot
07/21/2008, Vndburg, Ljugarn - Gotland

20 July

Woke up at 8 AM from a tremendous thunderstorm that kept us in the v-berth for a good hour-and-a-half.

The rain poured down like from a shower tap on full pressure.

A bit lazy as we were after the crossing, most of the day was just spent tinkering with all those odd jobs around a boat.

Late in the afternoon we took off for a slow sail to the little fishing port of Nrshamn, further north. we arrived at 10PM and hit the bunk almost immediately.

21 JUly

Left early to arrive Ljugarn at mid day. We are to team up with Staffan on 'Dorinda' here. S is a retired pilot and he sails a L-28. He is also the one who gave us the tip about The Curonian sea in Lithuania. He is now on his way there himself.

We had a potluck BBQ party at the dock in the evening, and had a very nice time. The mighty high pressure system seems to hae parked outside the Norwegian Coast now, and that usually means very stable nice weather and light variable winds for days to come. So we intend to enjoy life at its fullest, and just make short hops northward along this coast, until the winds will give us a fast and easy crossing to Latvia anf Estonia

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Who: Magnus & Isabelle
Port: Falsterbo -Sweden
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