Bookmark and Share
The Voyage of 'S/V Röde Orm' - Sweden
Come on board and take part in our adventures while exploring the world at the slow pace of a sailing boat. We left in June 2009, heading south to escape the northern winter... to start with. Currently in Algarve/Portugal taking it one day at a time.
Waiting for the new Engine to be installed
08/19/2008, back in Dirham

Tonight we will start breaking the old engine out and then tomorrow install the ner one.

A big day for Rode Orm, but perhaps slightly less important for mankind

The picture is from Tallinn

there are more of them heree:
http:[email protected]/

A week-end in Tallinn

The Old Town has medieval origins and is very well preserved to this day. Over 500 restaurants and bars, night-clubs, and souvenir shops and then of course tourists from all over the worrld everywhere.

Quite a contrast to our quite cruising life tha last 5-6 weeks.

The name Tallinn means 'Danish Town' in Estonian. The danish apparently founded this old trading port in the 1200's when it bacame the End, or the Beginning depending on your view of the Danish King Valdemars Trading route from Ddenmark, through all of the Swedish Baltic Coast with it's thousands of islands, via ?.land and Finland to Tallinn.

From 1561 and during the next 150 years, Tallinn was an important stronghold for the eaterns part of the Swedish 'empire'. Then it was German territory for many years, and after that the Russians took over.

Estonia with it's 1,5 million inhabitants has a quite short history as an independant nation. They became free at 1918 after the Russiian revolution, and then, ironically enough, became occupede by the Soviet Union in 1940.

Then upon the 'implosion' of the Soviet Union, they were independent again in 1988. In fact they will celebrate 20 year anniversary on Wednesday the 20th.This is called the 'singing revolution'.

The Death of an Engine
08/15/2008, Dirham, Estonia N 59 12,7 E 23 30,2

Long story short:

After quite imposing attempts to save the life of our old 'Yanne', the 30 hp Yanmar 3 HM from 1982, Hendrick the diesel mechanic, and myself had to realize that Yanne's days were sadly gone.

The 'autopsy' revealed that indeed there was a lot more than the external parts that were corroded.

Now, it turned out that there were a motor in the warehouse of the Finnish parent company to Ekstrm here in Estonia. A brand new Yanmar 3YM 30 hp. And on MOnday it could be shipped to Talinn. If averything, for once, should work out as planned, e could still be on our way to Finland by next Saturday or so...

Hendrik and we has become good friends by now, and he was kind enough to invite us to his home in Tallinn for the week-end. A nice change for us, to see the capital of Estonia instead of this tinyharbour day in day out.

By 10pm we were on our way at 35-40 knots on the road, listening to Estonian Radiio Chanels.

Arrival of the Mechanic
08/08/2008, Dirham

This little harbour, Dirham has a couple of advantages over Lehtma. On shore, exactly where the breakwater starts, ther is a small but very nice resaurant serving simple, but fresh and well prepared dishes. We sampled the Flounder at night. Furthermore there is a small food shop just 200 meters from it which we really appreciated. Last time we provisioned was at Kuressaare some time ago.

However, there is nothing more to mention about the place as such except that it seems so strange to us, that there are harbours here without as much as a village to accompany them. It still beats me, but it could be that they were built under the Soviet era for Navy purpose, what do I know...

At 6 in the evening (a Friday!) the mechanic came. Much to my relief he spoke quite good engish and seemed very profesional even though he were young.

After a while I realized that he mainly did installations of new engines, and regular maintenance. Therefore, it didn't come as a surprise to me that he found himself in a sort of chock when he saw the somewhat 'rugged' surface of the rusty old beast reigning under the cockpit floor n Rde Orm. This 3 cyl.Yanmar is built in -82, has an unknown number of running hours, admittingly looks horrid, but nevertheless has been serving me perfectly for 280 hours.

The corrosion obviously takes it's toll though. It took the two of us almost four hours to get the head off the engine so he could take it with him to his workshop. Every nut and every bolt fought for their life, and the injectors were extremely reluctant to leave their familiar environment. We had to cut two of the fuel lines from the pressure pump to the injectors after making the nuts more round than hectagonal, and my knuckles will carry their bloody trace from this battle for a few days. At time, this guy was a bit grumpy, suggesting an new engine, but I quickly took out the oil diostick and showed him how nice the oil looke after almost 80 hours, and the interiior of the cylinders looke good too.

The canals for the cooling water was clogged in both the head and the block suggesting that something has broke and come adrift...

Not much more to be said for the moment, quie exhausted I fell asleep as soon as I heard his car leave the dock.

The slowest 'Passage' ever...?
08/07/2008, Dirham - Estonian mainland

Since we had a headwind out of harbour, the crew of the Finnish flagged Delphia named 'Dealatis' that we got aquainted with under the 30-35 knotter these last days, gave us a tow the first mile. The first time ever I've had to accept a tow.

Soon enough we realized that this would be an endurance exercise. The wind decreased early on and was just about enough to provide steerage. In addition to this, we had to tack a few times to clear the numerous reefs the first 6-7 miles to the north and the east.

To make a looong story short, we just about made it. The 30 miles sailed included the tacks took us 24 hours more or less. And for an hour just after sunset, we made 4-4,5 knots close-hauled. Thus we mad an average of 1,5 knots or therabout.

When we arrived at the entrance (170 degrees and 60 meters wide between reefs, remember?) at 3 in the morning, the little remaining wind veered to South and made any attempt to sail in there impossible. Since we were far from in distress, nor wanting to call on the VHF at this early hour, I simply hoisted the mizzen, sheeted it hard to heave-to and then we slept until the morning.

We must have been tired, since we slept until 8, when a very light breeze came back....from the South, obviously.

The next three hours we were beating too windward to gain those 3 miles we had drifted while at sleep.

Back at teh entrence - still no way to sail into port, I called the Harbour office on the VHF twice with a few minutes in between. No answer. Then I called 'all stations' . even though there were a couple of sailing boats within eyesight, no one answered. Then the Estonian Coast Guard answered. I told them that we were not in an emergency of any sort, but needed a tow to get into harbour due to serious engine failure. After a mnute they called back and told me they were coming.

In the meantime, a man with a distinct accent of an English Gentleman, called from his yacht 'Arctic Tern' and told me he was further East but heading my way. I said the CG were already on their way but thanked him nevertheless.

So, we made landfall in the wake of an old Finnsih-built CG vessel from 1961, well maintained, and with tthe dual mission to break ice at winter. A 300 hp engine and an extremely thick steel hull saw to that.

Newer ]  |  [ Older ]


Who: Magnus & Isabelle
Port: Falsterbo -Sweden
View Complete Profile »

Powered by SailBlogs