Nauru- where not to go !
05 April 2012 | Solomons to Majuro
Rob
Aloha all, after barely surviving the nasty conditions north of the Solomons, we decided to forge on despite the limitations of no Genoa and a missing lower shroud. The thought of turning back and retracing our steps just didn't get it. After filling our fuel tank with my 11 jerry cans, I figured we had 55 gals of fuel or enough to go about 550 nm. The problem was that Majuro is 690 more nm to go. With no genoa and light wind forecast, i decided to get fuel in Nauru before proceeding on to Majuro. We arrived at 0600 after sailing slowly at 2.5 k most of the night. To our surprise, a huge ship, the Nord Tokyo, was also cruising into Nauru to load up with phosphates for which this island is famous. You can imagine who got priority treatment. We were told to move off North out of its way. Only problem was there's no where to park and there are 4-5 ft swells right up to the surrounding reef. I explained our predicament and our urgent need for fuel. After multiple calls to Harbor control we were told that customs would be coming out to our boat. It was noon when he finally arrived. Delmore, the Customs officer. I supposed he wanted to prove how important he was by making us wait all day. I explained the situation,and that we weren't staying there ,we just needed fuel, and then would leave. He still insisted on taking my ten beautiful pages of clearance from Noro. He said he would come back with our clearance papers. He didn't stamp our passports even though there was also a quarantine officer with him. He was on the boat a total of 7 mins. They get around on these huge WWII vintage landing craft that second as tug boats. Johnboy takes the dinghy to shore and manages to get our jerry cans filled qiththe help of these awesome workers at the port . They actually drove him to the gas station towed him back to the Rose under continuing adverse conditions. They refused to take any money. John managed to find his way to the western union where they exchangd my $500. US for $450. australian- rip off! 3 hours later we are starting to panic because there is no sign of Delmore. John decides to defy the harbor master and take the dinghy back into this god forsaken harbor despite the fact we were now in a squall with rising wind and seas. Luckily, he was able to get the single page of clearance for us that must have taken Delmore 5 mins to complete. We finally escaped Nauru after 10 hours of waiting . Meanwhile , the Nord Tokyo has sprayed huge clouds of bat guano all over for hours ,and they left before we did. Cruisers should never go there unless unavoidable! Stay tuned, more fun stuff to follow, but I'm tired now.