From Motueka on the north coast we headed SW through the forested mountains of Kahurangi, Nelson Lakes and Paparoa National Parks to Westport. A word about NZ roads - they are narrow, very winding and one cannot make time; we generally averaged 70-80 kph. The 100 k speed limit signs made us roar with laughter, as no one in their right mind would be able to drive that speed for more than a few meters; and usually these signs were followed immediately by a 35 k corner sign. Arriving in Westport, the wind was blowing a "hoolie", and we opted to share a cabin with Steve and Judy at the Top 10. The next day we drove north through Karamea to the see the Oparara Arch and Caves. I thought this would be a straightforward scenic drive up the coast, but I neglected to notice that the road also went inland over several passes. Travel was very scenic, but slow. Once beyond Karamea, the road to the caves became a dusty gravel track. It's surprising that anyone finds their way to this location; however, the DOC have set up an impressive display of posters with information on the history, geology, and flora and fauna of the area. We hiked first to the impressive arch which is 37m high and spans 200m. After a picnic lunch, we headed for the Crazy Paving and Box Canyon Caves. Then it was time to retrace our steps back to Westport. In the end, we decided not to stay in Westport, but to continue on to Punakaiki, so we would be close to the famous Pancake Rocks the following day. The Pancake Rocks are unique along this coast - a series of dramatic layered limestone outcrops with blow holes and great views up and down this scenic coastline. We stopped in Greymouth to provision and then continued on to Hokitika. The west coast was the center of gold mining and logging in the mid-to late 1800's, and the Maori travelled here to collect their precious greenstone for carving. Hokitika has some excellent shops selling gold and high-quality greenstone carved by local artists. From there we continued south to Franz Josef.