Fatu Hiva
We set out at daybreak for the 45 nm sail from Hiva Oa to Fatu Hiva with Code Blue and Sequoia. After a brisk sail, we arrived in the Bay of Virgins (formerly the bay of Penises) just before sunset - the pink glow on the famous rock pinnacles was very dramatic! Our French guidebook describes them as "symbols of virility" and nicely sidesteps whether they are penises or virgins! The small bay was really crowded with boats, many of whom had just arrived from Panama and/or the Galapagos. Sequoia had set out with us from Atuona, but engine problems necessitated a return to the anchorage to make repairs and they hoped to join us the next day. The guide books warned of the katabatic winds coming down off the mountains towering 3000' above us, but we were not expecting a constant barrage of 30kt winds. In the close quarters, it meant a night in the cockpit on anchor watch for Ted. Finally, the following afternoon, the winds reduced enough that we felt it safe enough to leave the boat; so we launched the kayaks and headed into shore. Fortunately, since the guidebooks were published, they have built a breakwater, which helps with the landing (reported to be "challenging"). Sadly, we were surprised to find that the locals were not friendly and the children were ill-behaved. The kids jumped into our kayaks and demanded that we let them use them; once onshore we were immediately assaulted with demands for bonbons from the kids and liquor from the adults - not the welcome to paradise we expected! The location was certainly photogenic, but the atmosphere was not pleasant. When we returned to our kayaks, we found that the lady, who had been demanding perfume, beer and wine had left a load of limes and pamplemousse in our kayaks, so we knew we were obliged to bring some presents to shore the next day. Sequoia arrived around dusk and ended up anchoring in 100' of water, as that was all the space that was left. Ted spent another night on anchor watch as the high winds and rain continued. Our lady was waiting on the beach the next day with her hand out and was visibly disappointed when I gave her lipstick instead of perfume or booze; the kids all demanded bonbons and again attacked our kayaks. The six of us wandered up through town and on up to the waterfall, where we enjoyed a swim in the pool at the base of the cliff.

Tahuata
The following day, after yet another windy night, we left for the island of Tahuata and anchored in the north end of Hapatoni Bay. Yet again more wind and rain, but the island is very pretty. As it was too windy to leave the boats and make the long dinghy ride to the village at the south end of the bay, we decided to spend the afternoon on Sequoia playing Sequence. The next day, the wind had settled a little, so we made the wet ride over to see the village. The people here were very friendly and the artisan market was filled with amazing unique carvings of wood and bone. We met a French archaeologist and her husband, who have been working in the Marquises for 20 years; she explained the interesting history of the archaeological ruins in the valley to us. Apparently, this was the site where Marquesans came from all over the Archipelago to die and be ceremonially sent out to sea. Ted and I hiked up over the ridge to the get a great view of the south side of the island from 1100' elevation. The next day we moved the four miles north to Hanamaenoa Bay - our first real tropical paradise! Finally we were out of the high winds and rain that had been plaguing us for days, and now were sitting in a gorgeous open bay with a sand beach, crystal aqua blue water and green mountainside above us. The water was 84F and just lovely for swimming and snorkelling. We recognized many of the boats surrounding us - most were Puddle Jumpers from both Mexico and Panama. The intrepid six took dinghies round to the village of Vaitoha to see the famous church, constructed with ballast stones from tall ships. It was lovely architecture, Gavin would have loved it. Boniface, a gentleman we met in the village, took us to his home to see the carvings made by his son. It was most interesting to visit his home and meet his wife and daughter, who were baking. Steve, the young Polynesian whose family has owned this land at Hanamoenoa Bay for three generations, was keen for the cruisers to have a pot-luck on his beach beach. It was a lot of fun to meet some new cruisers and hear their stories. Steve served up raw sea urchin with a squeeze of lime for everyone brave enough to try it. It actually tasted not unlike the raw oysters that we loved to eat in Desolation Sound. There were many young children on these boats, and it was fun to see these confidant kids playing in the ocean together and making friends from around the world. Some may be too young to remember these experiences, but I am sure they will appreciate having lived this lifestyle as they get older. Reluctantly, after three days in this paradise, we headed out mid-afternoon for the 18 hr sail north to Nuku Hiva. Our friends Gord and Debbie Ritchie would be arriving in two days to spend three weeks with us. We are thrilled that they are joining us and that we can share this magical experience with them.