The next chapter in our adventure has started and if it were a real book then the chapter would be entitled 'Changes, Changes, Everywhere.' Ruffian has changed from a freshwater motor boat into a sea going sailing boat. The water has changed from a flat still unmoving medium to a rip roaring kaleidoscope of action. The scenery has quickly changed from being strewn by civilisation to an unspoilt wonderland seemingly untouched by the hand on man or time and all this change occurred within moments of leaving the Crinan Canal.

Changing Ruffian back into a sea going vessel was all pretty simple. You just need to stow all the fenders, ropes, blocks, and barge boards, amongst other equipment and then get out all the sea going stuff such as lee clothes, sails, winch handles etc. The change in the sea was marked as we decided that we'd have enough tide to get through Dorus More where the water rips through at upto 8 knots and formed eddies and whirlpools all around the boat, just like Gulf of Corryvreckan, which was visible today in the near distance with its standing waves. The change in civilisation was put quite succinctly by Iain after we'd exited Dorus More and were sailing quietly downwind. He said 'It's so quiet here my ears are starting to hurt.'

Sailing on the north side of the Crinan has been a revelation. People always say that the cruising here is remarkable but nothing has prepared Iain for the practicalities of this remarkable country. On the UK south coast you decide upon a destination and if things don't seem right then you have no choice but to live with your decision. Here north of the Crinan, around every headland, past every island, you are presented with places to stop, places to explore and places to experience the wilds of this remarkable landscape. Just today for example we started out heading for Craignish Bay on Loch Craignish, then pushed on to Eilean Arsa, before changing our minds and going for Asknish Bay. We finally ended up in Fearnach Bay at Lock Melfort

Since the Irish sea we have seen little sealife. Today all that changed. Apart from the millions of salmon that are housed in the fish farms we have also had the company of a solitary dolphin and a seal who bobbed along beside us what for seemed like an age. We are however very sad to say that there still have not been any sightings of fish attached to the end of our fishing rod.

The other big news on Ruffian today is that we seem to have finally resolved the issue of our leaking calorifier. The calorifier takes the closed loop hot fresh water from the engine and runs it around a tank of cold fresh water. This cold water heats up and gives us pressurised hot water around the boat. All very clever. Since we purchased the boat almost a year ago we have always had a little leak of some description, be it in the form of engine coolant water or fresh water. Today we think that we have fixed it with the addition of some PTFE tape, heaps of elbow grease and additional jubilee clips.

So as the new chapter opens on Ruffians adventures, we seem to be set of a tale of fair winds, sunny skies and life changing experiences.

Our track can be found here.

Starting in our still and secluded spot on the Crinan Canal.


Our first glimpse of the fabled isles from Ruffian.


Eddies and whirlpools all around us at Dorus More .


Fiona the figurehead.


Downwind sailing. Happy days.