12 December 2014 | Fort Bay, Saba, 17’36.80N 63’14.76W – Jumby Bay, Antigua 17’09.37N 61’45.70W via Jolly Harbour, Antigua, Deep Bay, Antigua, Parham, Antigua & Great Bird Island, Antigua
One of the great joys of the sailing lifestyle is in the friendships that you made and how, after many months apart and with 1000’s of miles under the keel, those friendships can be instantly rekindled. We had a date with “Balvenie”, a fine ship from New Zealand which has visited 97 countries in 11 years whom we last saw 106 anchorages and countless miles ago.
We waved goodbye to Saba and motored through the night surrounded by the twinkling lights of all the saints in the form of Martin, Kitts and Barts. At dawn their twinkling lights were put in their place by the sensational sunrise which was reflected in the Caribbean Sea and was so spectacular that even the dolphins surfaced in their 100’s to have a look.
Now in Antigua the main event was upon us. The “Balvenie” reunion was in full effect and we all made a beeline for the beach in Deep Bay. Like long lost friends we let the sand manicure our feet and we then happened across an opportunity to rein-act a true British tradition; Pooh Sticks.
Picking our chosen tools for the competition we guided “Balvenie” in the art of Pooh Sticks. The bridge was examined in minute detail to evaluate the optimum position to drop our sticks in the tide and then countdown began. 3, 2, 1 drop, splash. The sticks hit the tide and out in front by a country mile was Mark quickly followed by Amanda’s, Fiona’s followed in a pitiful 3rd place and Iain’s stick managed to get lost somewhere along the way. Talk about beginners luck.
As the evening drew on we watched the sun get extinguished by the ocean and cracked open a few cheeky beers in celebration. Out of the fridge came some Yngling, imported all the way from America and Mark nearly wet himself with excitement. His eyes grew wide and he shook with anticipation as the condensation dripped down the side of the can and finally it was cracked so that he could sup his first proper beer in months.
With “Balvenie” in tow we acted like an extreme form of forward looking sonar as we negotiated the reefs, rocks and narrow passages on the windward side of Antigua. At Great Bird Island, where we hoped to find great birds we found none, in Jumby Bay where we expected to find nothing we found blisteringly fast internet and in Parham we tasted a Caribbean which was so authentic we could taste it for days.
The Caribbean we discovered in Parham took the phrase Roti House to the extreme. Roti’s were served out of someone’s house and next door was a towering church which provided an oasis of calm. The village aroma was served up by sweetcorn roasting above hot coals outside the corner shop and the soundtrack of the village was the clackety clack of dominoes being enthusiastically slapped on well worn wooden tables. This was the Caribbean we’d travelled to see, smell and taste.
Over the horizon from Antigua is it’s little known sister island Barbuda. Here there is nothing and that is exactly why we need to go there with our rekindled friends “Balvenie”.
Would you believe that’s the Caribbean Sea?
Honest gov. It’s a dolphin.
So much power we create ‘solid water’.
Wow. We enter a country and actually have a flag for it.
A world of mountains and mangroves.
The sea even glows when the skies are angry.
Introducing TeamBALVENIE after 8 months and 5000 miles.
Ruffian makes a great forward looking sonar.
Islands, reefs and Ruffian.
It’s the iconic ‘driftwood and beach’ photo.
Great Bird Island where we didn’t find any ‘Great Birds’.
Well done us. We remembered the anchor light.