In the face it takes more muscles to frown than to smile and the Caribbean is a great place to relax, kick back and just enjoy the view. From the looks of Emma she was fully relaxed as every time we looked at her she held a beaming smile ensuring that her face muscles didn’t over exercise. As we sat on amazing beaches, swum in shining water or hiked to the top of hills Emma remained relaxed and her smiling face muscles showed it.

Emma’s relaxed muscles proved to be a hindrance on her first snorkelling expedition. Offshore we went in Thug and tied him to a ball as waves as tall as a person rolled under us This was going to be a challenging swim and even more so as smiling with a snorkel filling up your mouth is a challenge and a half.

We managed not to drown as we swam around the offshore reefs at Christmas Cove. Fan corals wafted in the huge seas, fish danced around the jaggedy rocks and we were given an exhilarating ride as we were swept back downwind and downwave to Thug. Getting back onboard Emma was all smiles and all teeth. Welcome to our smiley reality Emma.

It wasn’t all smiles for miles; however, there was to be drama on the high seas. After tying Thug to the side of Ruffian day after day you would have thought that Iain would have perfected tying a knot. Perfection is not something that Iain is good at.

While Emma sat smiling in the sunshine, Iain & Fiona bimbled below, Thug then silently made his escape. Now just a spec on the horizon Iain noticed his disappearance and readied to retrieve the errant soul. Into the water he dived and swam and swam and swam. Then to compound his embarrassment for not tying a proper knot a motorboat, of all things, came to the rescue. Thankful, Iain mounted Thug and then motored home managing to run out of fuel enroute. So much for being an experienced well prepared mariner.

Day after day passed and we took in the peaks overlooking the bays and the wildlife inside them. As we gained height the sheer brilliance of the water showed itself and as we dived into the water rays, Turtles and Remora swam around us. Every moment was a smiles for miles time.

Not all the sea life was welcome. Entering the tricky bay at Saltpond the water was so clear and shallow that we didn’t have to snorkel to see the wildlife. It helped however that the wildlife in this case was a 6 ft Barracuda that relaxed around Ruffian for hours and turtles that were completely unfazed by our presence.

Fiona & Emma, inspirationally, nicknamed our new friend Boris the Barracuda but Iain though that Edwin the Emma Eater was more apt. Boris proved entertainment for hours as just as Emma was ready to jump in he’d make his presence known and shine his sharp fangs up at her.

Nearing our circumnavigation of St John we had to test Emma’s smiling capability by taking her to Gt Lameshur Bay. We thought that the trails, swimming and friends would push this smiling diva over the edge.

Deciding to follow Saralane’s advice of hiking in the midday sun we tackled the highest point on St Johns, hoping that once we reached the summit we’d be granted uninterrupted views and a spot to eat our picnic lunch. Cresting the hill we were greeted by US route 109, high tree’s on every side and a local mumbling nutter who was walking home from having a fight in a bar.

Insistent on showing us somewhere for lunch our pet nutter led us to Picture Point. We had endless views throughout the virgins and could see all the way to Virgin Gorda. As for our spot for lunch, Route 109 was flat, shady and available and so we settled down to a picnic where we just had to move for the occasional car. This took Emma to new smiling highs.

Gt Lameshur Bay was slowly filling with boats we’d met on our travels. Saralane, Skylark, Nychea and Chill filled all the balls around us and we were in for a smiley social time. Before we could be social there was one last hike we wanted to take in.

With an early morning start we thought Maddie would feel we were dragging her out for another route march. Instead we found her full of coffee and smiling from ear to ear. Skip must have changed all the clocks and got up especially early.

Hiking the hills to the ancient Petro glyphs Maddie put a smile on everyone’s face as she pulled out of her bag something more precious than gold, something rarer than chicken’s teeth and something more refreshing than a Timotei moment. She cracked open a Dominican grapefruit. There were nothing but teeth and wide grins on show as we devoured this greatest of surprises.

The culinary surprises weren’t over for the day as we all gathered on Chill for the evening and a meal that was either 5 months late or 7 months early. We were set for a full on, good old U S of A, Thanksgiving dinner. Roast turkey, cornbread and cranberry sauce covered our plates and grins covered every corner of Chill.

It was now time to say goodbye to both Fiona & Emma and the sea life were not happy at this. Turtles reared their heads getting a last glimpse, even Boris had turned up to say goodbye and as we sailed to St Thomas, the first dolphin of the year, gave us a fleeting appearance

Waving a sad goodbye the last thing that was present on Ruffian were any smiles. Iain has been left ‘home alone’ for a week with only a chore list and Ruffian to keep him company. Fingers crossed Fiona returns safely and Iain manages to survive a week with no adult supervision.

The new autopilot is the best ever. Never has Ruffian been steered so dynamically.


And upwind we go. New sails and everything.


We are in America where huge beef burgers are the norm.


Emma gets used to cooking in the smallest kitchen ever.


Plantation house. Yes please.


With Emma on board we get all sophisticated (Thanks to Dina2)


Emma finds Jody another development opportunity.


A great view from on high.


Matched by a pretty good view from low down.


Time for some underwater adventures.


All dressed up and in we go.


Emma sees ‘the lot. Rays, turtles, barracuda, dolphins, ………….


It’s not all blue skies (but it is mostly).


Just like Team SCA.


Err more upwind. It’s great having new sails.


Picture perfect anchorage, but it’s a good job that pictures can’t capture Salt Pond smells.


Sneaking up on the local wildlife.


Don’t do it Em.


Team Ruffian.


Now that is the view of a desert island.


Boris the Barracuda. The underwater guard fish.


We try hiking in the midday sun.


Amazing view from the top.


Only letdown by the picnic spot in the middle of Route 109.


A room with a view.


Ancient graffiti.


Is that a Dominican grapefruit or are you just pleased to see me.


All we need is some WD40 to get the old mill working.


Our first Angel fish in the Caribbean.


Emma inspects the bottom of the keel.


Tektite. Google it - what an amazing story.


American thanksgiving. Either 5 months late or 7 months early.*


*Thanks to Elizabeth on Skylark for the photo.**
**Thanks to Luna for letting Elizabeth & Ed out to play.