Unexpected Surprises
06 July 2013 | Egadi Islands
Jackie
Having gone ashore to Trapini we spent a pleasant morning wandering around the old town, through the expensive shops and onto the town park, where we found a tranquility that should have been more countryside rather than town.
The distant sounds of cars and sirens seemed to blend into the background whilst we were surrounded by the pinks and purples of flowers and deep lush green of succulents. Wandering further through brought us to the fountain where we watched a huge duck paddling in the water at the point of waterfall and drinking from the water (I have to say it was pretty green water and I would not liked to have drunk it). Tucked away at the far end of the park were pens housing rabbits, guinipigs and peacocks. This brought back memories for Pete of visiting the park in York as a child.
We returned to the boat and went back with bikes later in the day. Trapini is a spread out town so using the bikes to explore was great.
Having picked up a tourist info booklet we found we could go up the nearby mountain via cable car. It was just 9 euros each for a return and we decided a treat we should have. So the following morning we got up early, set the bikes in the dinghy and set off for the start of the cable car. It was a long cycle and ended going up a hill that looked and felt like those you see in San Fransisco (well maybe not that big). We found the cable care terminus, locked the bikes to railings and got in the cable car. As usual I was somewhat nervous as heights and I don't tend to mix well, but I soon got used to it and even braved looking out at the view below as we went further and further up the mountain, as we reached each ridge we were suprised to find another, stretching ahead. We finally reached the top and got out, there was still further to go to the top, but we passed through ancient stone arch and into the town.... Now that was a suprise and... It was not a tiny one, it spread up the hill side and through narrow streets and passage ways with old stone houses, churches, monuments and of course the usual tourist shops!
A further wander brought us out to a clearing where we could see the remains of a castle and a fantastic view over the Notrh West coast of Sicily. We further strolled up to the castle and spent time wondering at the view, thinking of those who had live here in the past and wishing we had the money to restore and live in it ourselves. Just below the castle was another building, indeed being restored. It was perched on top of a rock whose striations looked like steps going round and round the rock itself. Fantastic.
It was incredibly hot and we soon finished the water we had taken with us. After a few hours we made our way back to the cable car for the journey back. Again the view was amazing and we noted the islands to the South of Trapini the sea between the lands gleaming invitingly and the salt pans causing vast barren fields in the terrain.
Again a cycle back to town and a return to the coffee/cake shop found the day before saw us eating yummy sandwiches and iced coffee before returning to Argonauta.
Having logged in with the harbour authority at Trapini and been granted 48 hours we pushed our luck and stayed another night. So now we moved before we were in trouble for outstaying our welcome, this time to the Islands, we decided to go to the second island,Favignana (said Favinya). We had an excellent sail and found ourselves in a small Cala, Cala Rosa. We dropped the hook and as usual swam over it to check she was well dug in. The water here was clear and the brightest blue I have ever seen the sea. The painter in me tried to name the blue but I couldn't, however Pete got it completely right.... Swimming pool blue! We spent the day sunbathing, reading and swimming and were very happy to have found such an amazing place. Mid afternoon the sound of music filled the air, not exactly nice music, more blaring pop music, oh great!! However it was an ice cream boat!!! Well, there was nothing more for it, I called it over and bought a cup full of flavoured ice, bit like a slush puppie but using fruit rather than concentrated colour enhances. I have to say I was very impressed that even at anchor I could buy an ice cream!!
As we settled to watch the sun setting we were visited by an official looking rib, the 2 men on board told us we could not stay at anchor overnight, they gave us a pamphlet explaining the local rules and conservation areas, we could pick up a mooring buoy for 24.50 euros for 24 hrs, of which we could use a buoy in the next bay until same time tomorrow, or we could move out!! Well the mooring buoy won and we were given a round of applause by an Itallian boat already on a mooring buoy after we carried out the perfect catch and tie up. (Wow, for once we got it right and someone saw, usually the other way around.)
Having read the leaflet we noted we could by an an anchorage pass to use in areas where anchorage is allowed overnight. This cost us 30 euros a week, so we went on line, registered and got our pass number. Well at least we will be saved from hassle of having to have cash for more moorings... And means we will at least stay in islands for a few days anyway.
Next morning we sat in the bay on the mooring. The water was still clear but there were a few clouds and a bit of wind spoiling the calm of the bay, oh yes and jellyfish, my big fear is being stung, having jumped in swum a little and seen them I got out pretty sharp.
The afternoon we slipped our mooring and headed off up the coast to Favignana town. We dropped the sails and motored into the harbour, this is a busy harbour but tiny, day boats, high speed catamarans, hydrofoil and a large ferry all serve this port. There is a tiny marina and harbour wall that can accommodate boats but we wanted to anchor and as space was limited, headed back out of the harbour and up the coast a little tucking in below the high cliffs. Pete pumped up the dinghy again, and we set off for town. We were met at the harbour wall by a local fisherman, who offered to take our line, helped me ashore as the harbour wall was somewhat tricky to get up and assured us we would be fine there, saying he will watch the boat. We padlocked the dinghy to the metal ring on the harbour wall and set off. Favignana is another fascinating town, small with a variety of tourist type shops only, two town squares surrounded by restraunts and ice cream shops and an amazing old building housing the tourist information office. Again a wander round and we made our way back to the dinghy, we were met again by the fisherman who helped us back into the dinghy, of course for an ulterior motive and his kindness got the tip he had wanted. On the way back we stopped and spoke with a couple from New Zealand who's assured us there was plenty of water near them and if we drop the hook at their stern we would be good. So we went back out to Argonauta, pulled up anchor and motored back into the harbour. Once again a text book anchorage and we were settled in the harbour in calm water.
After dinner on board we went ashore again. The feeling was different again, the town was alive with people, young and old, mixing, eating, talking and socialising together. We sat in the square, shared the best ice cream I have ever tasted and had a shot of expresso coffee. Whilst looking at the church I decided there were lots of people coming and going so went in. There was a piano concert taking place and having found Pete we sat for about an hour listening to the most amazing playing coming from a young woman no older than our son, she was just fantastic and watching her facial and body movement and gestures as she played brought true feeling to the complicated peices she was playing. Concert over we wandered back to the harbour, now there were stalls set around the edges of the car park with local crafts, scarves, clothes and jewellery. Once again for me heavenly and unexpected.
Overnight the wind moved and we found ourselves really too near the shore with 0.3 metres under our keel. Not the best night's sleep we have had. However the wind moved again and we got a few hours sleep eventually.
Friday morning found us up and about by 0730, Pete was very keen to move before either the wind moved or the big boats started causing wash. So we again hauled up the anchor and set off. The wind was favourable and we slid around the side of the island and into a small cove where again, hook down we settled for another lazy day. I spent most of the day asleep, either due to being a lazy mare, or as I prefer to think due to the disturbed night last night.
Once again this was a restricted zone bay meaning overnight anchoring is not allowed so about 430 pm we set off to find an anchorage for the night. We had a cracking sail, running at 8.1 knots on a reeled jib and main and towing the dinghy!!!
Once again we have found a bay with clear water, large patches of sand and enough shelter to make it comfortable. We thought of going ashore, but then decided maybe we will do that tomorrow.
So, the last few days have been filed with beautiful scenery, warm sunny days and full of pleasant surprises.