Volcanoes,Volcanoes and more Volcanoes
One of the places I have been anxious to see since we started the trip was an active volcano. A close friend raved about seeing the great Stromboli and had vowed to be with us when we sailed there, but circumstances as always got in the way so we set sail just the 2 of us to fulfill one dream at least.
We set off for Vulcano the closest of the volcanic islands in what was as usual calm and devoid of any wind. The scenery was beautiful and the shore soon became shrouded in haze. On we motored and out of the haze loomed huge rocks of the off islands of Alicudi and Flicudi, we eventually reached the shore of Vulcano and motored aroud to Porto di Ponente and into the bay. The echo sounder showed big depths until we were only a short distance from shore and we dropped the anchor. First try left us a little too close to shore and in shallow water so we pulled up and tried again. This time successfully. As the sun was just about to set I dropped over the side to check the anchor and took photos of the sunset from the water. I actually watched the sun set 3 times, one from the water, one from the cockpit and finally from atop of the boom. I do have a thing for sunsets.
We sat on deck watching Volcano smouldering through vents high up in the mountain and hoped it didn't choose today to erupt!
The anchorage gives good shelter, with calm water and no rolling seas,after a good night's sleep we got up to clear skies and another amazing day. The bay itself is fairly quiet, although there are 2 beach bars, one of which blasted out Queen until about 9 pm the other had what sounded like a bad caberet singer until the early hours.
Having breakfasted we set off for shore and exploring. There is a decent jetty to tie a dinghy to with metal rings secure enough for chain and padlock. We followed the road along the edges of fields and into the town, well I say town, more like a holiday complex with many tourist shops. We walked around to the port just the other side of the bay we were in and looked at the mud pools filled with people smothering themselves in therapeutic mud. I have to say the stink of sulphur (rotten eggs) put us off and we hurried away from the pungent smell.
The rest of the day went by in our usual lazy way with swimming and reading whilst watching the slow steady stream of steam billowing from the mountain.
After a further day we again set off, this time towards Stromboli. As usual no wind so again our sailing boat had to motor. It was a fairly short hop to Lipari and we had hoped to stop off in the bay by the capital, however having got there there was no room to anchor, mooring buoys were taken and we did not particularly want to pay for a marina(money is still very tight and a marina not a necessity). So we continued around the corner and anchored off Capo Rosso just north of Cannetto. We were close to the shore before the depth was shallow enough to anchor which goes against everything we have ever learned off the East coast of the UK, so felt very strange.
We swam in the clear waters and Pete dived about 4 metres down to retrieve a piece of pumice from the sea bed for me. We ate on board and didn't even go ashore that night.
Next day and we were going to Stromboli. As it was only about 28 miles away we set of at a reasonable hour(well reasonable for me). The wind was favourable if light and we finally got to hoist the cruising Shute. This set well and we shot along at about 6 knots in a wind of only about 10. As we manovured around a huge motor yacht, being closely watched by the crew the wind shifted and the Shute collapsed. A frantic snuffing of the Shute saw us motoring again until we were out of the lee of the cliffs and back into clear water. We were going so well that we decided to go around the North side of the island, passing the lava flow site that appeared like a huge black smooth slope, Pete reaconed you could ski down it it was so smooth. Regular rumblings came from the Vulcano reminding us it is active and could blow at any time.
As we rounded the top of the Island we doused the sails and motored I towards Bartolomeo where we again anchored a short hop from shore.
As is usual I donned goggles, snorkell and fins and leapt off the back into the water to check the anchor had dug in well. As I surfaced through the bubbles I was aware of something on my mask, thinking it was just steamed up I kicked forward towards the bow. Within 3 kicks I was aware if an intense burning across my side and belly, followed by stinging in my arm and legs. I was suddenly afraid and a little disorientated, I screamed even though I was still using the snorkell to breathe. I swam towards the back of the boat where Pete was shouting at me to tell him what was wrong. I spat out the snorkell just as I realised I was entwined in the tentacles of a jellyfish. I frantically tried to get out of the water, no mean feat when wearing fins and Pete hauled me onto the swim platform. I took off fins, mask and snorkell and peeled a long tentacle across from my tummy. By now the sting had started and Pete arrived back in the cockpit with a bottle of vinegar which I gretefully poured over the stinging areas. The vinegar was closely followed by paracetamol and antihistamine to counteract the sting. Well, that was not the sort of excitement I had hoped for but will definitely make me look carefully before I leap in the future.
After a short rest and good strong coffe for the shock we made our way ashore. We tied up and placed the chain through the under struts of the metal bridge leading to the passenger ferry terminal and made our way into, town, following the signs for tsunami escape high ground!!!
The town was tiny set atop of the cliffs. One supermarket, a pharmacy, a few tourist shops and several trekking shops that hire walking boots, torches, fleeces etc and have arranged trekking parties up the volcano to the crater. Not being that energetic we sat and had a drink watching the Trekkers set off at about 430 pm.
We returned to Argonauta and watched the sun set, like others waiting for the fireworks from the Great Stromboli afer dark.
Unfortunately Stomboli did not want to play ball. We saw one big flash of orange reflected in the cloud hugging the peak and that was it!!! We did however spend a long time watching the tourches of the many Trekkers wending their way back in the dark. I am sure it was a fantastic experience but not sure I would want to do it. The last ones back must have been about midnight, quite some treck.
Next morning it was up early, well like up in the middle of the night, we weighed anchor and set off for the Messina Straights at 0300 hrs! The anchor was well embedded and as we had turned around during the night we found ourselves only a few metres from the boat in front as the final bit of chain came up, a close shave.
As is usual no wind so we motored until we got within the straights of Messina. The gap was indeed narrow and we were a little anxious as stories tell of whirlpools and underwater currents etc. however it was a bit like getting into the Walton Backwaters and the biggest hurdle was a avoiding the strange swordfish boats with massive masts, atop which sit 3 people looking for the swordfish and below them is another huge bow sprit with a lone fisherman wielding a three pronged harpoon in readiness. They speed through the water and seem to pay little heed to a mere sailing boat.
Whilst in the straights the wind picked up and we pulled out the cruising schute for an exhilarating sail of up to 8.5 k. The land passed quickly and before long we were out the other end of the straights . We passed land and choose anchor in the bay of Taormina. This time with a View of Etna, who like Volcano gently puffed out smoke from a vent.
So there we have it, we have now been to the sites of 3 active volcanoes within a few days, we have watched them spew out promise of what is under earth, swum in seas that are made cloudy by volcanic ash, collected pumice and a piece of volcanic stone as a memento and waited for the fireworks which never came. However, one dream off my tick list, many more to go!