No particlar Place to Go
14 April 2009 | More Mexico revisited: San Blas
Sancho
San Blas/Matanchen Bay
I didn't take many pics in San Blas. I seem to remember taking more, but it must be the images in my mind. It's hard to capture the wide angle of peace and tranquility on film.
Matanchen Bay is a few miles South of the entrance to San Blas. The whole bay seems to be about fifteen to twenty feet deep with good holding. You can drop the hook about anywhere around the point out of the swell.
It is a good idea, however, to anchor outside the flight range of shore side biting bugs like mosquitoes and Jejenes ( pron: Hey-hen-ays... 'no see-ums') unless you like getting transfusions to replace your blood supply.
If you're sensitive to Jejene bites, wear protection anytime around sunset near the beach... for mosquitos, anywhere anytime. I don't have an allergic reaction like some people do but it sure stings when they clamp down! The Palapa owner burns coconut husks to keep them at bay. It really doesn't work but now you smell like burning coconut husks! Oh well, have another rum punch. You won't notice them bite.
As we dinghied ashore a man on the beach in front of one of the restaurants was waving a white rag, beckoning us. The old fellow and his wife like to have Yachties pull up in front of their place. He doesn't expect anything for watching your dinghy, but I doubt one ever went missing anyway. You might; however, return to find a gaggle of kids using it as a sand box. He'll happily point you to the road and gives instructions on where to catch the bus to San Blas. The Modelorama (Beer warehouse) is the landmark, rising above the palms.
The quarter mile walk to the highway is lined with hazards. At least ten stands sell coconut and banana bread.. chips, pop, cervesa... Temptations at every turn. Run, run! Save yourself! The goodies are cheap and the bus ride is 5 pesos (fifty cents) for the three kilometer trip. They usually get you for 7 pesos coming back.
Mexican buses are a scream. They're often packed with people sardine style. I don't think any have seen more than cursory maintenance over their life time. The suspension surrendered to the pothole gods years ago and the clutch? 'Don't need no stinkin' clutch'. Or brakes, or mufflers. Despite the poor condition of the bus, the driver's area is usually richly decorated to suit his fancy. Religious motifs are popular. Maybe for good reason? The fare box usually consists of a cigar box on the dashboard. Try that in any U.S. city. Some tweaker would blow you away for the price of a cup of coffee. When the Mexicans think the buses are worn out, they sell them to Guatemala! Riding a bus in Guatemala could be a life threatening experience. Si?
On the ride to town, we noticed a bunch of Pangas pulled up on the river bank and a big sign advertizing Cocodrillio Jungle River trips. We went back the next day with the father/son crew from No Regrets and for $N 110 ($11.00 US) each had a great day cruising the mangrove lined river for Cocodrillos, and birds of every description. The river culminated in a shady swimming hole complete with the ubiquitous palapa bar.
The old Spanish Port of San Blas is - except for a small Expat community - typically Mexican. Tourism's impact is minimal and daily life goes on much the same as it does all over Mexico. If you don't know how that is, you need to go see for yourself. It is a country with a rich culture, and history and friendly people.
The typical Mexican day starts before dawn, with people bustling about on the way to jobs or opening their market stalls and businesses. Just as the sun comes up, the first shoppers appear, selecting fresh and incredibly cheap produce and meats for the day's meal. The aroma of pasteries, and fresh hand made tortillas fills the air, replaced at Siesta with that of Pollo Asada smoking on the grill.
By the time the Gringos are afoot, it's usually Siesta. Shops and offices close and everyone heads for their favorite Fonda for La Comida Corrida... The meal of the day.
After siesta, it's back to work until the sun goes down for the locals. We usually browse the shops or sit in the square and watch the human parade before heading back to the boat. Of course, there is always time to stop at the little Palapa for un poco fillete pescado y un otro cervesa. Salud! Es simplemente un otro dia en Paraiso, si?
Hasta luego,
Sancho