Third Time
16 July 2009 | Musket Cove, Fiji
Fine weather this week
Third Time's the Charm
I sure hope it works for cameras. I just took the second one of the voyage for a swim in the Vuda Point Marina. We're all Med-moored to a concrete wall. Getting on or off the boat at either high or low water presents a serious challenge. One I failed. I survived unscathed but he camera didn't. It would have been a $500 day if Liz hadn't dragged the bottom and come up with my prescription sunglasses.
Vuda/Lautoka is Fijis second largest city. Lautoka is a mix, as is most of Fiji, of indigenous Fijians and Indians. The problems with the coups and suspending the constitution is over citizenship of the (barely) minority ethnic Indians and property rights. The Fijians wish they'd disappear, but that's not happening anytime soon. Fiji would also rapidly descend into Vanuatu style Third World without the Indian population to conduct the business.
It's interesting to walk down the street and see Mosques, Catholic and Methodist churches alongside Vishnu Temples. Haven't seen a Synagogue since Papeete but that doesn't mean they aren't out here. Riding the local bus, you see kids of all persuasions be-bopping to the boom box blaster on the bus. They're all fluent in English (something we've yet to accomplish in the US) and seem completely unconcerned with their differences. I can't help thinking that if we'd quit infecting our kids with our adult agendas and propaganda ... Oh never mind. I'm just dreaming.
Fiji would be a lot more boring without the Indians. They really add spice, cuisine and style, to the culture. Fijian food consists mainly of stringy pit-roast little pig, muscular (tough) chicken, fish, Cassava, Taro, and fruit. The Indians brought their rich tradition of spices with them - curries with rice, yoghurt, lamb, dahl and a variety of breads when the Brits imported them from India to work in the cane fields. The first nation Fijians wish the Indians would just vanish, but they've been here for generations. If you're interested in that part of history, Lonely Planet has a good intro in their Fiji guide book.
Lautoka has the larges sugar refinery in the Pacific after Hawaii. The cane is transported from the fields to the refinery either via narrow gauge rail cars pulled by a wee little engine or, increasingly by truck. When the mill recently broke down, trucks were backed up for miles. Rather than risk losing their place in line, the drivers slept in their trucks; families bringing food and necessities each day. The EU buys most of the sugar production at subsidized rates.
Musket Cove is a couple hours away, tucked into the SW corner of Malolo Leilei Island. Musket Cove was reputedly purchased from a Fijian Chief for the price of a musket so he could better threaten neighboring islands. We're sailing here to get away from the marina while we plot our course through the reef strewn Yasawa Island chain.