The culinary melting pot that is San Francisco doesn’t stop at the standard Italian, Greek or Chinese fare. No, no. Child’s play, those are. When you want something off the beaten path and, oh…delicious, go Hungarian.

For my brother’s birthday, we celebrated at the Bar Tartine in the Mission District of San Francisco. Now that he’s half Hungarian – by virtue of his better half, my sister-in-law – we found ourselves introduced to a whole new cuisine. Thanks guys!

After warmly greeted at the door by one of San Francisco’s recently written-up sommeliers, Alex Fox, we were promptly poured some lovely bubbly. Excellent start. A moment later, Chef/Owner Nick Balla, came over to give his well wishes to Travis, welcome backs to Jude and her father Lazlo, and then cordially greet the rest of the clan. Chef Nick notices the menus on the table. Menus? No menus necessary here. One of everything for the party! Well, howdy-do!

The bread is served as well as some background. The story goes that Nick was a chef at a popular sushi restaurant that was often frequented by the owner of a prime bakery in town, Tartine Bakery, where folks would religiously queue up for their bread, pastries, and typical French Café dishes. They got to talking and Nick let him know that he was leaving to venture out on his own, with his own restaurant. The bakery owner offered to sell him the bakery. So Nick takes over the bakery, freshening up the menu. Still he wanted to open a restaurant featuring his beloved Hungarian cuisine. So, up pops Bar Tartine in the foodie Mission District. Well, we are grateful. It’s the bomb.

Our first dishes arrive in handsome “pickling” jars. Well, why not? It’s an array of fantastic brined items. There is the well-known Sauerkraut as well as the lesser-known and nearly more delicious spicy version using red cabbage. Then pickled green cherry tomatoes, watermelon radish (so pretty) and carrots. The last is the famous Sauerkraut stuffed into sweet young red peppers. My mouth was in a non-stop puckered smile.

The starters keep coming, including probably my favorite dish of the night – caramelized brussel sprouts with jalapenos, cilantro, shaved carrot and what I think might have been apple cider vinegar. I’m awaiting the recipe to confirm. It was fantastic. Sweet from the vinegar and caramelization of the sprouts, hot from the jalapeno, cool and tart from the vinegar and finally a touch of refreshing with the cilantro and crunch from the carrot. Wowza. Chef Nick, you had me at brussel sprouts.

When I thought things couldn’t get better out comes the Langos; a fried potato bread topped with a light sour cream and garlic sauce and fresh dill. Brilliant. Fried bread. Those clever Huns. Way to step it up a notch.

Another memorable starter was the shaved dried beef on top of thick, dense rye bread with a shmear of creaminess, which Travis swears is lard. Well, if that’s lard, bring it! It was whipped and fluffy like butter with a bit of meaty goodness. Yeah, that’s right. Meaty goodness!

We’ve downed all this with some dry and not too sweet, Alsatian Riesling which Alex has carefully chosen. After that he brings out a Cotes du Rhone Grenache, which is amazingly paired with the tanginess that is fundamental to this cuisine which continues on with several typical but perfected entrees; Chicken Paprikash, braised tripe with sautéed Swiss Chard and my favorite, the traditional sausage atop light and creamy mashed potatoes with Sauerkraut, a bit of au jus and topped with a sweet and piquant sour cream sauce. After stuffing my face I was still able find the strength to tear off a piece of the country bread to sop up another bite of that yummy sauce.
Um, no you’re not. Not until you’ve had some fine Tokaji, a coveted dessert wine dating back to the 16th century. While I was sipping this sweet “digestive”, Lazlo was still debating the true authenticity of the six-point rated Tokaji. After some fun-loving teasing about the donkey that had been used by Chef Nick’s uncle to smuggle in this special bottle, we all agreed that no matter what the rating it was a lovely accompaniment to the desserts of pistachio ice cream with a cardamom-infused espresso and the white, six-layered cake with delicate chocolate icing.

Holy Paprikash Batman! What a fun time. Thanks again Travis and Jude for introducing us to the flavors of Hungary and even more thanks for treating us on your special night. We were so happy to have been part of your celebration. Say, what are we doing next year? ; )