Change of plansVicki
2013/09/09, Haugesund, Norway
We explored the Hardangerfjorden up to Jondal and then turned around and headed out, landing in Haugesund. We are tied up to the quay in the middle of the town. It is a great location, close to everything we need and very cheap. Only problem is the local nightclub is busy until 4:00 a.m., and can be very noisy. They do like to party on a Saturday night. Haugesund is a fast-growing community, mainly due to oil rig production and the jobs it provides.
We came up to the docks at a campground in Sunndal, on the Maurangerfjorden. We were 30 feet from shore and the water was over 70 feet deep. The next day we got up and took off on a hike up to the Bondhusbreen Glacier. It is an off-shoot of the Folgefonna Glacier, the third largest glacier in Norway. I was hoping to reach the glacier and be able to touch it. The first ¾ of the hike was quite doable, good path and not too steep but with awesome views. We went around the glacial lake of Bondhus and up to some flat terrain below the glacier. Then the going got rough, scrambling up rocks, maneuvering through bushes, finding the path, losing the path. We were up there with the goats. Turning around to look at the gorgeous view, we would get dizzy from the height.
First Norwegian anchorageVicki
We are making our way through some of the southern fjords. The mountains up close are green, but the mountains behind are gray because of the mist. And the further rows turn an even lighter gray, until it is hard to distinguish the mountains from the clouds.
2013/09/02, Bergen, Norway
We had a wonderful four days of exploring Bergen. We saw many of the museums and had a walking tour through the historic area. It is quite a vibrant area, and being at a dock right in the center of town meant it was easy to see everything. We also had some rainy periods, which meant laying about and watching the Matrix movies.
What can I say, after you get over the sticker shock, Bergen is fun. The weather is warm and I have sun on my back as I sit in the cockpit of Nokomis. We are in the harbor, right in the center of town. Lots of people walking by, checking out our boat, asking questions about the passage over. Tom likes to act as if he has done it all, but if asked point-blank will admit to not doing the Atlantic passage. He just read Joseph Conrad's "Typhon' so now we call him First Mate Jukes.
Northern lights and oil rigsVicki
2013/08/28, Norway Sea
We passaged from the Shetland Isles to Bergen, Norway. We started at six in the evening, had a night, a day, another night and part of the following day. By the second night we were used to the two hour on/four hour off schedule and slept better. The best part of the passage was on the second night, during my shift, there was quite a spectacular display of northern lights. And I did see one dolphin splashing through the phosphorescence. Made the two hours go by quickly. During the day we ended up sailing quite close to an oil rig, making sure to stay more than one nautical mile away, as required. First sighting of an oil rig, not quite as exciting as seeing a whale. But another big milestone for us - we are now east of 0 degrees!