Surfs up!
04 March 2009 | Playa Dominicalito, Costa Rica
by Ryan Harris
On a calm day we anchored the boat in a small bay. The inhabitants of Gone Native decided to have a pleasant swim to the beach.
As we were leaving Wesley and I saw quite a few good waves, so we decided to retrieve our boogie boards so we could body board. We jumped in with everyone else to swim to shore. We started swimming, we continued swimming, we swam, and we were swimming... WE MADE IT! We didn't notice until we arrived to shore that the swim was almost a quarter mile long.
We all made it past the surf without getting slammed on. We all gathered up at the beach and decided what we would do. Wesley and I decided to stay and play in the waves, while everyone else would go look at the small town that was nearby.
After everybody started going to the town Wesley and I rushed onto the waves. We surfed them in, dodged them, and ran into them for about 30 minutes until my parents came back from town. We both walked to them and asked what they had they had done in the town. They replied that they signed up for some surfing lessons! They continued saying that we would start surfing....now.
We gleefully asked where it started. They took us straight to the instructors, who had two other young adult girls with them, who were also learning how to surf. The two boy instructors let the two girls go on ahead and surf, while we got the "2 hour safety and tips lesson." After they showed us the basic position on a surfboard, which took 2 minutes, they said that we could go and surf. I thought "whoa" that safety lesson took almost 3 minutes! We all suspect that when they saw us playing in the surf unattended they thought we should be spared the safety lesson.
We all started running into the surf with some surfboards that they let us borrow. I saw a wave start crashing and I got into "basic position" and the wave pushed me and I got up!!! I road the wave to the beach and did some basic turns by leaning on one side. After surfing for almost two hours the instructors told us to take our surfboards to the boat and to bring them back the next day.
After swimming on the surfboard back to the boat I thought...surfing was a totally excellent experience.