04/28/2007, Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva, Marquesas
Remarkably, I had no burning desire to go ashore and was quite content to remain on the boat resting, reading, and catching up on odd jobs and minor repairs. When most of that was finished, though, I blew up the kayak and ventured ashore where I soon met the crew of half a dozen other boats, all European and out of the Galapagos. Their route comes from a bit farther south than mine so this island is the first encountered and they all stop here. Most of the American boats make landfall at Hiva Oa, a day's sail the the northwest.
The village of Hanavave is situated in a breathtaking ravine with vertical volcanic rock formations rising 1000 ft. and covered with vegetation. There are maybe 100 people living in the village in small, simple prefab housing and they have all have gardens with fruit trees but no vegetables which they do not seem to eat. I met up with four crew from a Dutch boat and had a Polynesian dinner at one of these homes. There are no restaurants here so some of the enterprising locals cook meals for the cruisers who inundate the town for two months each year. We had goat meat cooked in coco milk, tuna marinated in lime juice, garlic and goat's milk, several preparations of bananas, and grapefruit. It was all very good, especially considering what my options were onboard.
Sunday morning I will go to 8 AM Mass at the little church and then watch some soccer games in the village. In the evening, the locals are putting on a goat cookout for the cruisers. Should be interesting. Wish I spoke a little more French.
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04/27/2007, 2790 miles southwest of Cabo San Lucas at Bay of Virgins Fatu Hiva, Marquesas
Sand Dollar dropped her anchor in the Bay of Virgins at Fatu Hiva, Iles Marquesas, French Polynesia at 9:30 AM local time. What a fantastic trip! I am thrilled to be here and happy that the passage went so well. There were no gear failures, accidents, or difficult times. The weather was more or less as expected but the passage time was better than predicted. May all my passages go so well.
Land was sighted just after sunrise 24 miles off and what a sight it was. The wind had been blowing 20-25 knots most of the night and I was tired and anxious to drop the hook and get some sleep. The Bay of Virgins is well protected from the swell but the wind howls down from the steep valley above. The landscape is precipitous and the vegetation lush as you might expect of a tropical volcanic island. There are 17 other boats in the crowded anchorage, mostly Europeans who have come by way of the Panama Canal and the Galapagos. My mileage for the final day was 104 for an average speed of 4.3 knots. The trip total was 2790 miles at an average speed of 5.0 kts. in 23 days.
I will rest today, drink a few beers and go ashore tomorrow. There are some interesting hikes to stretch my legs and I am told there is a French bakery and some fresh fruit.
Life is good!
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04/26/2007, 2686 miles southwest of Cabo San Lucas at 09deg 24'S 137deg 25'W
Tomorrow I will make landfall at the island of Fatu Hiva, Marquesas and, as you might imagine, I am both excited and anxious. This island was chosen because it is the most windward, allowing the other islands in the group to be visited by sailing downwind. Although Fatu Hiva is not an official entry point, the word on the cruising grapevine is that the local gendarme does not care as long as boats stay only a few days before moving on to complete the formalities in Hiva Oa farther north.
Fatu Hiva is said to be well worth the stop because it makes for a stunning landfall, rising 3100 ft from a base of only 30 sq mi. There is a decent anchorage but no facilities except for maybe a shop or two.
Sailing the past 36 hours has been exhilarating with 18-24 knots of wind on the beam. My daily distance was 128 miles for an average speed of 5.3 kts. I am actually trying to slow the boat down so as not to make landfall during darkness. The plan is to "heave to" and sleep about 30 miles offshore allowing me to arrive in Fatu Hiva about midday on Friday.
All else onboard is well.
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04/25/2007, 2558 miles southwest of Cabo San Lucas at 07deg 38'S 136deg 18'W
Just when I was about to open a package of Trader Joe's green curry chicken, BINGO, I landed a nice tuna just in time for dinner. He was caught on a reel mounted to the stern rail; no rod but very heavy line (100 lb test). The reel provides adjustable drag but essentially I just winch the fish in. Now I will have fish for the next several days. Unfortunately, that means I will have stop fishing until I get closer to the Marquesas where I will be able to share any catch and make new friends.
Yesterday's progress was slow because of fickle winds and many rain squalls. One minute the wind would be 5 kts and the next it would be 25. There were a lot of sail changes but no motoring. My noon-to-noon distance was 100 miles for an average speed of 4.2 kts. This morning the wind has been blowing consistently at 15-20 kts and I am making 6.5 kts on a beam reach. If this continues there is no doubt that I will make landfall on Friday. Otherwise it will be Saturday.
All else is well onboard.
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04/24/2007, 2458 miles southwest of Cabo San Lucas at 06deg 19'S 135deg 13'W
Yesterday was my slowest day so far. My noon-to-noon distance was only 85 miles for an average speed of 3.5 kts. The southeast trades have been very fickle so far, bringing calms and more squalls. I have decided to conserve diesel and use it for charging the batteries, if necessary, and maintaining a reserve for maneuvering near the coastline. Seven gallons, or about 12 hours running time, remains. I am in good shape and could even motor in a dead calm for 8 hours if I had to. As long as there is some wind, though, I prefer to sail. Besides, what's the hurry? I am now 330 miles from landfall so if I can manage to average 110 miles/day I will be there on Friday the 27th. in the morning. Even if I screamed along at 6 kts. I still would not make it in less than 3 days because I want to arrive in daylight.
This morning I saw a dolphin near the boat. That is the first sea life I have seen, aside from the odd flying fish and storm-petrel, for a week. Despite dragging 3 lures of various sizes and colors I am still eating chicken. The water temperature is 82 while the cabin is 85, not much change. Fortunately, it cools off at night and I sleep in the cockpit quite comfortably.
All else is well onboard.
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04/23/2007, 2373 miles southwest of Cabo San Lucas at 05deg 14'S 134deg 24'W
I finally got out of those nasty squalls and found the southeast trades. They are not as strong as the northeast trades but I am not complaining, the boat is moving along quite nicely at 5.2 knots and the swell is comfortable. Last night the wind went flat so I had to motor for 12 hours. Let's hope it keeps blowing all the way to the Marquesas, another 390 miles.
Landfall is likely on Friday April 27 in the morning, either at Hiva Oa or Fatu Hiva. I will decide as I get closer. The fishing has been lousy and I do not see many birds. I think it will improve as I get closer to shallow water. All else onboard is well. The frozen food is gone so now I am eating canned stuff. Could use a nice tuna about now. I think I'll put out another line.
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