05/14/2007, Daniels Bay, Nuka Hiva, Marquesas
Today I sailed the 5.7 miles to Daniels Bay where some episodes of "Survivor" were filmed. This is a lovely bay and very well protected. Two other singlehanders whom I know, one from British Columbia and the other from Turkey, were here when I arrived. We took a dinghy up the river and then hiked inland for about a mile where we saw a few houses with nice gardens and some archeological ruins. The river has some small trout-like fish and I think tomorrow I may return with my fly rod. I would love to identify them. One of the guys barbecued some chicken on his boat and I provided some ice cold beer. What a feast!
Sand Dollar may stay here an extra day as I am contemplating joining the other guys who want to hike to a waterfall reputed to be the 3rd highest in the world.
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05/12/2007, Taiohae Bay, Nuka Hiva, Marquesas
Susan and Elba on "Infinity", Terry on "Southwind III", and I rented a pickup truck to tour the island of Nuka Hiva. We spent about 10 hours driving at total of 80 miles, visiting several villages, archaeological ruins, and a vegetable farm where we stocked up on tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, pamplemoose, zucchini, and papayas. The mountain ridges had pine forests much like Eastern Washington and the leeward side of the island was much less vegetated than the windward side. It was a very rewarding trip and I would highly recommend it.
Sunday I will take care of boat chores and then on Monday sail to Daniel's Bay, made famous as a film site of the TV series "Survivor" of which I know very little. After a day of two at Daniels I begin the 450 mile passage to the island of Raroia in the Tuamotus. That passage will take 4-5 days.
All else is well. Happy Mothers Day.
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05/11/2007, Taiohae Bay, Nuka Hiva, Marquesas
The people of the Marquesas are certainly not destitute and I have seen no instances of poverty although most of the people live quite simply and do not seem to have great material needs. Their pickup trucks are mostly brand new Japanese models. It appears the economy is well-subsidized by the French government. Something to do with reparations for past insensitivities, ie nuclear testing.
Taiohae Bay is a one horse town. There are two small grocery stores, an infirmary, pharmacy, bank, gendermarie, schools, and a couple of restaurants, all for 1600 people not counting the 75-100 sailors who inundate the place during the fall cruising season. The locals are very friendly and helpful. I am trying to learn a few words of French each day.
Tomorrow three other cruisers and I will rent a car to tour the island. All else is well. Radio transmission is sometimes difficult in this anchorage because of the mountains so some of my reports have been missing or late. The internet service also has been undependable.
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05/09/2007, D'Hakahau Bay, Oa-Pou, Marquesas
The wind today was from the east-northeast at 8-12 knots which means the 28 mile sail from Oa-Pou was close-hauled on a starboard tack. I saw some birds working but caught no fish. Otherwise, it was a very pleasant passage.
The town of Taiohai Bay in Nuka Hiva is the largest settlement in the Marquesas with 1600 people and, believe it or not, there is wifi service in the anchorage! The speed is slow at 128 bps but the price is right, only US$6/hour. Tomorrow I will try to hook up to the wifi and also blow up the dinghy so I can go ashore and see the sights. There are 32 other boats in the anchorage but the bay is very large and could accommodate 200 boats. There is no swell so I expect a very calm night on the hook.
All else is well. I wish it were a bit cooler during the day.
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05/08/2007, D'Hakahau Bay, Oa-Pou, Marquesas
Shortly after midnight this morning I weighed anchor for the 70 mile sail to the next island in the chain, Oa-Pou. The wind was on the beam at 12-16 knots the entire trip making for a delightful sail. I saw one other boat in the distance, an inter-island cargo vessel. There were no fish to be had despite being offered a good selection of lures.
Eight other boats are in the anchorage, several of which I already know. It has rained on and off since I have arrived so I will wait until tomorrow to go ashore to explore. The town is the third largest in the Marquesas which means there is a bakery and a couple of food stores. All else is well.
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05/07/2007, Hanamoenoa Bay, Tahuata, Marquesas
I did not make it out of here today as planned. Instead I will leave sometime after midnight for the 67 mile trip to the island of Ua Pou, arriving early afternoon depending on the wind. Today I rigged a rainwater collection system and made some modifications to the solar panel battery charging setup. Some days I think I could collect a week's worth of water just from one squall.
All else is well. There are now 10 boats in this anchorage.
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