08/13/2007, En Route to Suwarrow Atoll, Northern Cook Islands
After wonderful sailing conditions during the day yesterday, the weather deteriorated with nightfall. Heavy rain accompanied by strong, gusty winds persisted from dark until daybreak. I got very little sleep and was soaked to the bone. Fortunately it is very warm and everything dries out quickly. The conditions today have been more settled with no rain, just 15-20 knots of wind and six foot seas. Boat speed has been consistently over 6 kts the entire day.
The noon-to-noon distance was 128 miles for an average speed of 5.3 kts. I am on schedule to make landfall tomorrow. All else is well onboard.
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08/12/2007, En Route to Suwarrow Atoll, Northern Cook Islands
The wind has been consistently at 12-15 knots making for pleasant sailing and adequate speed to make Suwarrow by Tuesday. The noon- to-noon distance was 121 miles for an average speed of 5.0 kts. The sea is a bit lumpy but not uncomfortable as long as I maintain boat speed to minimize rolling.
A huge fish was hooked at daybreak, probably a yellowfin tuna. True to form, I lost him near the boat when the 100 lb test monofilament leader parted as the fish made one last attempt at escape and dragged the line across the windvane self-steering apparatus. I then decided to change the leader to 400 lb stainless steel cable. Lures are expensive and in limited supply. There was no other action the rest of the day. It would sure be nice to arrive at my destination with tuna fillets to distribute among the fleet which usually means a couple of dinner invitations.
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08/11/2007, En Route to Suwarrow Atoll, Northern Cook Islands
Sand Dollar slipped its mooring this morning and departed Penrhyn Atoll bound for Suwarrow Atoll 393 miles to the southwest. The passage will take three days if winds are at least 10 knots. At present the wind is east-southeast at 12 knots on the port quarter and the boat is making 5.2 kts. which will put me into Suwarrow Tuesday afternoon.
Suwarrow Atoll is uninhabited except for a caretaker placed there by the Cook Islands government. The island is a national park, is protected and is frequented by cruisers on their way from Bora Bora to Pago Pago, American Samoa. There are no facilities except for the caretaker's hut and a place on the beach for barbecues. I expect to see at least half a dozen other boats there.
All else is well onboard. The weather is pleasant, the skies partly cloudy and no rain squalls yet today.
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08/10/2007, Penrhyn Atoll, Northern Cook Islands
With some regret, tomorrow I will depart Penrhyn Atoll for Suwarrow Atoll which is 390 miles to the southwest. The past 11 days here have been some of the best on the cruise. I have spent much of my time with Mike Grubnau and his fishing guides Baar and Micky at the pearl farm. Although the bonefishing was not up to my expectations I enjoyed the company, the fine meals from the outdoor kitchen and the beautiful scenery. I learned about pearl farming, coconut crabs, and Pacific island politics. Perhaps I will hook up with Mike and the boys in New Zealand next summer.
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08/09/2007, Penrhyn Atoll, Northern Cook Islands
Today was too windy for fly fishing in the lagoon so Mike and I took a small boat out through the pass and trolled for several hours trying to hook a wahoo or tuna for the dinner table. We had strikes from five sailfish, landed an 80 pounder and a medium sized blue-fin trevally. The locals say when the sailfish are in the tuna and wahoo are nowhere to be found. The sailfish we gave to a local family but the trevally we kept. Tomorrow we will try again for tuna.
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08/08/2007, Penrhyn Atoll, Northern Cook Islands
The bonefish were not biting today so, instead, we went hunting for coconut crabs. Three good-sized specimens were found under some coconut trees and cooked for dinner. I found them to be much like our dungeness crab but perhaps not quite as sweet. Nevertheless, it was delicious fare and the price was right. We finished off the last bottle of Bordeaux which I had brought from Tahiti. The cheap Mexican rum is still in the bilge where it may remain for a long time.
All else is well onboard. The weather was settled today except for a brief rain squall late this afternoon.
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