09/14/2007, Niuatoputapu, Tonga
More attempts at fishing have been fruitless. When I check with the locals I see that all they are catching are very small mullet using casting nets, technology that has not changed in hundreds of years. For large fish like tuna or mahi mahi they travel offshore 14 miles to a reef which is productive. However, the trip there is in open water and requires good weather which has been in short supply the past couple of days. Last night it blew to 30 knots in the anchorage but no boats dragged their anchor. I think it was a sleepless night for most. Today brought steady rain in the morning and partly cloudy skies in the afternoon.
All else is well onboard.
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09/13/2007, Niuatoputapu, Tonga
I learned more about last night's kava drinking session. The event occurs three nights per week among the three villages on the island as fund raisers for the three Catholic churches. It's sort of like bingo night but is for men only. The cost is $2.75 for all you care to drink until midnight. The kava itself is a concoction made from the root of a pepper plant grown locally. The men sit in circles of about 10 people while a hostess pours the kava into coconut bowls and passes them around. There were perhaps 80 people in attendance. I honestly don't think it will catch on in the U.S.
Early this morning I took the inflatable out through a small pass in the reef to troll for dinner. The sea was a bit lumpy for my small dinghy but what really bothered me was the pod of humpback whales in the neighborhood. All of a sudden one surfaced about 100 ft. away in shallow water. That was all the encouragement I needed and I scurried back inside the reef. I caught no fish and am beginning to think that the waters around this island are fished out by the natives. Nevertheless, I will keep trying.
All else is well onboard. There are now 11 boats in the anchorage, all being pestered for cigarettes.
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09/12/2007, Niuatoputapu, Tonga
This evening a local family entertained the cruisers from the seven boats at anchor by having a traditional Tongan pig roast at their home. Besides the pork we had mixed vegetables, chow mein, breadfruit, curried horse meat, and candied mangoes. The horse meat was very much like beef and much more tender than I expected. Naturally, a good time was had by all.
On the way back to the wharf we stopped at the town hall to join an informal kava drinking session. The patrons, mostly men, were very happy to have us join them. Kava is a very mild intoxicant the Pacific Islanders have been drinking socially and ceremonially for many centuries. It tastes like mud! After several cups and feeling very little effect I decided it was time to head back to the boat while I could still walk.
All else is well onboard. The anchorage is very secure and I am sleeping well.
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09/11/2007, Niuatoputapu, Tonga
Three more boats arrived this morning with flags from the U.S., Canada, and Finland. The Finnish boat I don't know but will meet the crew tomorrow evening at a pig roast arranged by a local family. There are now seven of us in the anchorage. I expect one or two more boats to arrive today while the weather holds. It is expected to blow hard starting tonight.
The inhabitants of this island have by far the most primitive lifestyle of any island I have visited so far in my ocean travels. It is in sharp contrast to the relative affluence of French Polynesia and American Samoa. The economy is one of subsistence with the people growing or collecting almost all of their food. There is no central source of power. A few homes have solar panels or generators but fuel is in short supply and very expensive. Most families use kerosene for cooking and lighting. There are a few vehicles but horses or bicycles provide most of the transportation. Everyone wants to trade with visitors just like they have for a thousand years. Today I traded a tee shirt for some papayas, mangoes and bananas. Tomorrow a fisherman is bringing tomatoes and cucumbers for some fishhooks. Despite the simple way of life everyone seems happy and content. The ambitious ones leave for the main island or go abroad to work.
All else is well onboard. I am looking forward to the pig roast tomorrow.
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09/10/2007, Niuatoputapu, Tonga
Sand Dollar dropped the hook in the lagoon at Niuatoputapu (New Potatoes), Kingdom of Tonga at 10 AM this morning which is actually tomorrow morning on account of the artificial location of the International Date Line. I was not happy about losing a whole day at this point in my life but I am told that I will eventually get it back.
All in all the passage was a breeze, so to speak. That is, the wind and seas were almost ideal and my arrival occurred when the sun was high enough for good visibility at the entrance. The Seattle boat "Marcy", with my friends Peter and Ginger onboard was the only other boat on the island when I anchored and I was delighted to see them. Soon, however, two other boats pulled in, both of which I know - the Swedish boat "Lorna" and the Norwegian boat "Helen Kate".
We spent most of the afternoon checking in with the officials. Their main concern was whether we had any cigarettes for them. You see, the island's smokers have run out of tobacco and the bimonthly supply ship is not due until the 24th. They are in dire straits.
All else is well onboard. I have not yet researched the angling opportunities.
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09/08/2007, Enroute from Pago Pago, American Samoa to Niuatoputapu, Tonga
The sailing so far on this passage has been almost ideal and I don't expect any change before my arrival in Tonga tomorrow morning. The wind has been 10-12 knots on the beam and the sea height has been dropping since my departure yesterday afternoon so that now there is a 5 ft. swell with a period of 9 seconds. The ride has been very comfortable, there is no rain in sight and the sky has some large cumulus clouds typical of steady trade winds. Sand Dollar is now 75 miles from landfall which puts me into "New Potatoes" before noon tomorrow.
All else is well onboard. I will not start fishing until tomorrow morning at daybreak. There are still some ahi tuna steaks in the freezer.
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