09/21/2007, Nieafu, Tonga
Fishing for mahi mahi has been especially good lately in Tongan waters and quite a few of the sailboats set up for fishing have caught their share. This evening we had a fish fry onboard the only power boat in the fleet, "Special Blend", a Nordhavn 43 trawler. It was a potluck affair and the food and drink were excellent, as is usually the case. There were three U.S. East Coast boats, two West Coast boats and a Canadian boat from B.C. in attendance. All are planning to land in Opua, New Zealand at the start of the cyclone season in early November. It was fun to compare notes and discuss plans.
All else is well onboard. It will be hard to leave this place.
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09/20/2007, Nieafu, Tonga
This little town is certainly set up for the cruisers. It is somewhat touristy but in a low-key way. There are no tee-shirt shops and trinket stores but lots of cafes and restaurants situated over the water with views of the harbor. Each morning there is a produce market where I found locally grown lettuce, tomatoes and cucumbers. There are at least six internet cafes although the service is painfully slow. The airport has several flights per week to the capital of Nuklualofa so this is a decent place for crew changes. Several sailboat charter companies have operations here but their business has been slow, apparently because of a general drop in tourism following a bout of civil unrest after the King died recently. I believe Tonga has the only surviving true monarchy in the world and many would like that to change.
The social life here rivals that of Zihuatanejo, Mex. At this point on the "coconut milk run" most of the boats know each other or at least have heard of one another so there are many group activities and parties. Last night 18 of us went to an all-you-can-eat barbecue at a local restaurant. On Saturday 13 of us are renting dune buggies to go on an off-road tour of the interior of the island. If one gets tired of all the amenities and activity there are 30 secluded and idyllic anchorages just a few hours away by sail.
All else is well onboard. Last night there was no wind so I got eight hours of continuous sleep, the first time in weeks.
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09/19/2007, Nieafu, Tonga
Sand Dollar arrived in Nieafu on the island of Vava'u in Tonga at 1:30 this afternoon after a fast and comfortable passage from Niuatoputapu. At times boat speed over the bottom was 7.4 knots, quite unusual for my little boat. There must have been 1/2 - 1 knot of favorable current. A boat which left two days before me met very strong head winds, ripped their headsail, and broke their main halyard. I don't think they were monitoring the weather very well.
There are probably over 100 sailboats in the Nieafu harbor including a fleet of charter boats. The village is charming and has many bars, restaurants, outdoor cafes and gift shops. This is a far cry from the last port. I have encountered several cruising friends I have not seen in months. Naturally, we sit around and trade "war stories" about our adventures.
All else is well onboard. Tomorrow morning I will cut up the 15 lb. mahi mahi I caught during the passage this morning and distribute it to some of the other boats that have been generous to me.
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09/18/2007, en route from Niuatoputapu, Tonga to Nieafu, Tonga
Sand Dollar weighed anchor at 7 AM this morning along with two other boats bound for the island group of Vava'u in Tonga. The wind has been 18-22 knots just forward of the beam making for fast sailing although somewhat wet at times. At this point of sail the boat does not roll much but pitches up and down as it meets each 8 ft. wave. The comfort level is actually not bad. During the past 10.5 hours Sand Dollar has made 67.8 miles for an average speed of almost 6.5 kts. That's about the best I've ever done. If the wind does not drop too much I will make landfall by tomorrow afternoon.
This afternoon I hooked a four-foot shark but lost it when the line parted as I was bringing it in. More tackle sacrificed to the cause! It would be unusual for a shark to take a lure so I suspect that there may have been something else on the hook that attracted the shark. We will never know.
All else is well onboard.
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09/17/2007, Niuatoputapu, Tonga
The weather window for departing has now arrived. Sand Dollar will weigh anchor early tomorrow morning for the 180 mile sail south to Neiafu, Tonga. If the wind and waves cooperate I will arrive at the harbor just before dark on Wednesday. There are two other boats heading south about the same time.
I have enjoyed the people here but there is not a lot to do outside of working on the boat and socializing with the other yachties. The water is too turbid for good snorkeling and the fishing is poor. The next port, Neiafu, is very popular and I expect there to be perhaps 100 boats in the neighborhood.
All else is well onboard.
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09/16/2007, Niuatoputapu, Tonga
The heavy rain and high winds started up again last night accompanied by thunder and lightening. I think I bailed 10 gallons of water out of the inflatable this morning when the rain stopped. My departure has been postponed until further notice. I am anxious to leave but not anxious to pound into 12 ft. seas with 25 knots of wind just forward of the beam. It will be at least a couple of days before the wind is favorable for sailing south.
This afternoon there was a potluck lunch on a beach at one of the small islands near the anchorage. Most of the crew from the 13 boats now anchored were in attendance. Cruisers love these potlucks.
All else is well onboard. There is a sliver of a moon tonight and no rain so far.
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