10/07/2007, Savusavu, Fiji
The rain finally stopped and the sun was out most of the day which means the solar panels were putting juice back into the batteries and the boat is beginning to dry out. The town is very quiet today as is typical on Sundays and very few stores are open. I hiked to the top of a hill overlooking the bay for a panoramic view of the harbor and the lush countryside. The normal tropical plants are in abundance along with plantations of sugar cane which is Fiji's primary export.
All else is well onboard. At 1 AM tomorrow morning Fifi plays South Africa in the quarter finals of the Rugby World Cup in France. This is a big deal here and I expect most Fijians will be watching the game.
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10/05/2007, Savusavu, Fiji
Sand Dollar made landfall at 9 AM this morning after a very fast passage from Tonga. The 428 miles were covered in less than three days for an average speed of 6.1 knots. That's fast for a 34 ft. boat with only 26.5 ft. of waterline. It would have been even faster but we slowed the boat to 4 knots the final 12 hours in order to arrive in daylight. The speed of the passage was not a result of highly tuned rigging and exceptional sailing skills, but rather very strong winds and a solid boat. For all this performance we paid the price of being wet, tired and uncomfortable. I would rather have had a slower passage and more sleep.
Savusavu is very welcoming for tired sailors. As we entered the harbor the marina called to report they were sending a man in a small boat to help us tie to a mooring. Then, a succession of officials were ferried out to us for the formalities. Everyone was extremely courteous, friendly and efficient. The marina complex has the usual amenities such as showers, toilets and laundry but also has high speed internet, restaurants, a marine hardware store, travel agencies, a bakery, and gift shops. Apparently, many Kiwi and Ausie boats spend the winter here.
All else is well onboard and we are beginning to dry out. Unfortunately it has been raining here for the past two weeks and shows no sign of letting up.
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10/04/2007, En route from Neiafu, Tonga to Savusavu, Fiji
Sand Dollar is now headed to Savusavu instead of Levuka. The wind and seas have continued to pound us and the entrance to Levuka is subject to dangerous swells in high winds. For that reason we have detoured to Savusavu which is the same distance but much more protected. I expect landfall early tomorrow morning.
The past 48 hours has produced the fastest sailing I have experienced in Sand Dollar. At times yesterday we were maintaining an average speed of over 8 knots, surfing over one huge wave after another. The noon-to-noon distance was 139 miles for an average speed of 7.0 kts when the time is adjusted for the 4.25 hours hove to waiting for daylight at the passage through the reefs. Four boats converged on the passage at daybreak so we kept in touch on the VHF radio because visibility was so poor in the rain. Conditions eased for about three hours this afternoon and the sailing was quite pleasant but at dusk the wind and sea picked up again pushing the boat up to 7 kts.
All else is well onboard. Unfortunately, I heard news today on a radio net that the Finnish boat "Marita" hit a reef at the approach to the Fiji capital city of Suva. The boat is badly damaged and may be a complete loss but the crew are fine. I had spent some time with them in Niuatoputapu, Tonga. I hope they recover from their loss.
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10/03/2007, En route from Neiafu, Tonga to Levuka, Fiji
The wind has been between 25 and 30 knots all day and the rain has returned. The sailing has been "boisterous" as we say. At least we are making good time. The noon-to-noon distance was 147 miles for an average speed of 6.1 knots. I would give up some speed for nicer weather. The solar panels are putting out almost nothing so I run the engine a bit each day to charge the batteries.
All else is well onboard except for being hungry, wet, tired and cold. Are we having fun yet?
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10/02/2007, En route from Neiafu, Tonga to Levuka, Fiji
Sand Dollar departed Tonga at 6:50 AM today along with at least seven other boats bound for various ports in Fiji. The rain has stopped and we finally saw some sunshine. The sailing has be brisk with 20 knots of wind almost dead astern. We have two reefs in the mainsail and a poled-out genoa to give about 6.2 kts. of boat speed. There is some rolling but the motion is comfortable.
The new crew, Laure, is working out well so far. She is eager to learn, enjoys working the boat and does not get seasick. We are doing three hours on and three hours off which is quite a luxury for me. I won't know what to do with all the spare time.
All else is well onboard although it is taking me awhile to get used to the cool evenings.
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10/01/2007, Neiafu, Tonga
The weather has been cold and wet the past five days. I have not seen the sun for more than an hour or two and the rain just keeps coming, sometime heavy and sometimes a drizzle. This could be Seattle!
Sand Dollar has checked out of Tonga and is departing early tomorrow morning for Fiji. The passage is 408 miles and crosses the Lau Group of islands which are poorly charted and littered with reefs. This is a difficult passage for a single-hander and, for this reason, Sand Dollar has taken on crew. The new hand is a very experienced and highly recommended young French woman who is crewing her way from Europe to Australia. She will help me take the boat to Fiji and then probably look for another boat going to Oz. There are five other boats leaving about the same time tomorrow and we have set up a radio net to keep in touch and track positions. The passage will take four days unless the wind is very light, which is unlikely.
All else is well onboard. We are all anxious for a return tropical weather.
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