10/12/2007, Makongai Island, Fiji
The former leper colony here has been transformed into and ecological research station for the purpose of restoring a species of giant clam which suffers from over-harvesting. Baby clams are incubated in special tanks and then grown to adult size in designated areas of the lagoon. They are then transferred to various locations in Fiji in the hope that they will repopulate the reefs. These huge clams are almost three feet long!
The underwater visibility is quite good for snorkeling. However, most of the coral is dead and the fish are small. I did see a large sea turtle basking on the surface near the boat. There were no sharks of any size which is surprising.
All else is well onboard. Tomorrow, weather permitting, we will leave for another island 18 miles to the south.
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10/11/2007, Makongai Island, Fiji
Sand Dollar weighed anchor at 6:20 AM this morning for the 50 mile passage to Makongai Island, the site of a former leper colony. The trip was uneventful but the entrance to the lagoon was nerve racking. There were no channel markers but reefs everywhere. Fortunately we made it in without leaving any bottom paint on the coral. The anchor was put down near a small village located at the ruins of the leper colony.
The normal procedure when anchoring near a village is to go ashore and ask permission of the chief and then present him with "sevu sevu", a small bundle of kava roots. This small act is a formality which has been customary for hundreds of years and is expected of cruisers. After I presented my gift, the head man conducted a short ceremony and then welcomed me to the village and gave me a tour of the ruins. The leper colony was built by French missionaries in 1911, had 5000 occupants at one time, and was closed in the 1960s. Very few intact buildings remain today while the ruins are overgrown with all matter of vegetation. The surrounding countryside is mountainous and lush. The hundred or so people living on the island survive without roads, a supply ship or an airport.
All else is well onboard.
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10/10/2007, Lesiceva Pt., Vanua Levu Island, Fiji
This afternoon Sand Dollar moved about five miles to an anchorage near the entrance of the bay, affording a quick start for tomorrow's passage. We are about 200 yds from an exclusive resort owned by Jacque Cousteau's son. I snorkeled on the adjacent reef but was disappointed in the visibility. However, there was plenty of healthy coral and abundant sea life.
Tomorrow we will leave around 6 AM for the 50 mile passage to Makongai Island which is southwest of here. It was a former leper colony (I hope!). The weather forecast promises pleasant sailing with 15 knots of wind on the beam.
All else is well onboard.
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10/09/2007, Savusavu, Fiji
This afternoon the crew members from five boats attended a Fiji cruising seminar presented by a colorful local character who moved here from NZ about 18 years ago. He provided us with very useful information on where and where not to go and how to get there. Navigating in Fiji waters is challenging because of the many reefs and small islands. Several boats end up on the rocks each year. Curly has sailed almost everywhere in Fiji and knows the ins and outs.
All else is well onboard. Sand Dollar will head out tomorrow for a short trip to the entrance of the bay, drop the anchor and then sail south the next morning.
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10/08/2007, Savusavu, Fiji
Today is Fiji Day. Much like our Independence Day, it is a holiday to celebrate freedom from colonial rule. For most people it is simply a long weekend just like back home. I saw no parades but there are probably back yard barbecues and family reunions.
The weather was nice today although quite warm at midday. I am planning to head out in two days to explore some other areas.
All else is well onboard. Fiji lost its big game in the World Cup of Rugby.
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10/07/2007, Savusavu, Fiji
The rain finally stopped and the sun was out most of the day which means the solar panels were putting juice back into the batteries and the boat is beginning to dry out. The town is very quiet today as is typical on Sundays and very few stores are open. I hiked to the top of a hill overlooking the bay for a panoramic view of the harbor and the lush countryside. The normal tropical plants are in abundance along with plantations of sugar cane which is Fiji's primary export.
All else is well onboard. At 1 AM tomorrow morning Fifi plays South Africa in the quarter finals of the Rugby World Cup in France. This is a big deal here and I expect most Fijians will be watching the game.
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