10/14/2007, Nananu-I-Ra Island, Fiji
Today we motored 35 miles through a maze of reefs and small islands on the north coast of Viti Levu, the principle island of Fiji. The wind was very light, never over 10 knots. The route was marked with poles and sticks but they are poorly maintained and can never be completely trusted. Fortunately, we had good light all day so that the reefs were very obvious.
Our anchorage is in a small bay next to an island which appears to have a real estate development for foreigners, probably Kiwis. There are about a dozen very beautiful beach houses and some large opulent homes on the tops of hills. Also, there is a small "eco" resort on the bay.
All else is well onboard. Tomorrow we will continue heading west as long as the weather is good.
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10/13/2007, Naingani Island, Fiji
We left Makongai at 9:30 this morning for the short sail to an island called Naingani. The wind was 10-12 knots on the beam and the waves were very small making for nice sailing. From this point on in Fiji there will be very little swell because all the remaining water we will cover is protected by islands and thousands of reefs. That's the good news. The bad news is there is lots of real estate to run into. Navigating here is more challenging than in the Tuamotu.
Naingani is a small island with steep sides and a barrier reef. The village, on the other side of the island, is inaccessible from the anchorage so we did not present "sevu sevu" to the chief. The snorkeling was not spectacular and I saw no fish of edible size. This is, however, a very pleasant, quiet and beautiful place to spend time.
All else is well onboard. Tomorrow we will leave early to travel west along the north coast of Viti Levu, the principle island of Fiji.
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10/12/2007, Makongai Island, Fiji
The former leper colony here has been transformed into and ecological research station for the purpose of restoring a species of giant clam which suffers from over-harvesting. Baby clams are incubated in special tanks and then grown to adult size in designated areas of the lagoon. They are then transferred to various locations in Fiji in the hope that they will repopulate the reefs. These huge clams are almost three feet long!
The underwater visibility is quite good for snorkeling. However, most of the coral is dead and the fish are small. I did see a large sea turtle basking on the surface near the boat. There were no sharks of any size which is surprising.
All else is well onboard. Tomorrow, weather permitting, we will leave for another island 18 miles to the south.
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10/11/2007, Makongai Island, Fiji
Sand Dollar weighed anchor at 6:20 AM this morning for the 50 mile passage to Makongai Island, the site of a former leper colony. The trip was uneventful but the entrance to the lagoon was nerve racking. There were no channel markers but reefs everywhere. Fortunately we made it in without leaving any bottom paint on the coral. The anchor was put down near a small village located at the ruins of the leper colony.
The normal procedure when anchoring near a village is to go ashore and ask permission of the chief and then present him with "sevu sevu", a small bundle of kava roots. This small act is a formality which has been customary for hundreds of years and is expected of cruisers. After I presented my gift, the head man conducted a short ceremony and then welcomed me to the village and gave me a tour of the ruins. The leper colony was built by French missionaries in 1911, had 5000 occupants at one time, and was closed in the 1960s. Very few intact buildings remain today while the ruins are overgrown with all matter of vegetation. The surrounding countryside is mountainous and lush. The hundred or so people living on the island survive without roads, a supply ship or an airport.
All else is well onboard.
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10/10/2007, Lesiceva Pt., Vanua Levu Island, Fiji
This afternoon Sand Dollar moved about five miles to an anchorage near the entrance of the bay, affording a quick start for tomorrow's passage. We are about 200 yds from an exclusive resort owned by Jacque Cousteau's son. I snorkeled on the adjacent reef but was disappointed in the visibility. However, there was plenty of healthy coral and abundant sea life.
Tomorrow we will leave around 6 AM for the 50 mile passage to Makongai Island which is southwest of here. It was a former leper colony (I hope!). The weather forecast promises pleasant sailing with 15 knots of wind on the beam.
All else is well onboard.
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10/09/2007, Savusavu, Fiji
This afternoon the crew members from five boats attended a Fiji cruising seminar presented by a colorful local character who moved here from NZ about 18 years ago. He provided us with very useful information on where and where not to go and how to get there. Navigating in Fiji waters is challenging because of the many reefs and small islands. Several boats end up on the rocks each year. Curly has sailed almost everywhere in Fiji and knows the ins and outs.
All else is well onboard. Sand Dollar will head out tomorrow for a short trip to the entrance of the bay, drop the anchor and then sail south the next morning.
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