10/21/2007, Vuda Point Marina, Fiji
I don't know what the temperature is but it is getting uncomfortably hot. There has been no wind for the past week and the marina is like a sauna. More and more boats are departing for the cool weather of New Zealand but many are being slowed by adverse wind. Sailors experienced with this passage tend to depart later than most of the fleet to take advantage of more favorable winds but then there is the risk of an early cyclone. This risk, however, is extremely small.
All else is well onboard. Sand Dollar is still awaiting repairs to the anchor winch. Maybe we will be able to leave here tomorrow.
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10/19/2007, Vuda Point Marina, Fiji
Radio transmission has been poor as is typical in marinas where there are lots of tall masts and shore-side structures which cause interference. These reports may be late or altogether missing on some days. The wifi service at the marina has been very disappointing in that it is unreliable and extremely slow when working. I have found it necessary to take the bus to town and connect at internet cafes which are plentiful and cheap.
Sand Dollar is undergoing repairs to the anchor winch system which has been almost useless the past three weeks because of the chain becoming jammed in the apparatus. I have had to weigh anchor by hand which is o.k. in shallow water but when I have to lift 85 lbs. of chain and anchor off the bottom in 50 feet of water I get a little sweaty. The repair job is on hold until some simple little $2 retainer clips can be purchased. They may have to be flown in from NZ. Trapped again in paradise!
All else is well onboard.
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10/17/2007, Vuda Point Marina, Fiji
Lautoka is the second largest city in Fiji and is the major port for the export of sugar. Today I rode the bus into town for provisions and sightseeing. There is not much to see but the public market is the best in all of the South Pacific. Besides the regular tropical fruits and vegetables there were apples from New Zealand and paw paws from Hawaii. Some fruits I did not recognize but bought them to sample. The people are friendly and helpful but not as much so as in the smaller towns like Savusavu.
All else is well onboard and I am slowly getting accustomed to marina life again.
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10/16/2007, Vuda Point Marina, Fiji
Sand Dollar is actually moored at a marina where I can step from the boat onto shore. This is the first real marina I've visited since leaving Mexico in late March. What a luxury! All the essentials are here: laundry, showers, restaurant, swimming pool, bar, internet, chandlery, fuel, water, and lots of other sailors to trade yarns with. One could spend a few days here which is what I plan to do before cruising to some of the outlying islands.
All else is well onboard. Laure, my crew person, will be looking for a boat to Australia while I will be looking for crew to New Zealand.
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10/15/2007, Tomba Noloma Bay, Viti Levu, Fiji
There continues to be a dearth of wind today, forcing us to motor-sail to the next anchorage along the north coast of Viti Levu. The landscape is mountainous with lush vegetation on the windward side of the hills but only dry grass and shrubs on the arid, leeward side. There are a few villages here and there along the coast highway and sugar plantations inland. The snorkeling visibility is not good here as there are many rivers bringing silt into the bays and lagoons. There is a large cruise ship anchored a couple of miles from us so we must be approaching the tourist region of Fiji.
A word about the political situation: Fiji has had its troubles in recent times because of a power struggle between the two main ethnic groups which each make up about 50% of the population, They are the native Fijians on the one hand, and the East Indians on the other, who were brought here hundreds of years ago by the British to work on the sugar plantations. The strife seems to be concentrated in the capital of Suva and appears to have little effect on foreigners. When I ask local people about the situation they reply that it does not involve them and that they have become used to the coups d' etat. It does not seem to be stifling real estate and resort development.
This morning I finally caught a fish, a 10 lb. wahoo which makes succulent table fare. We had chilled sashimi on rice with wasabi, pickled ginger and soy sauce for lunch and grilled fish steaks marinated in teriyaki sauce for dinner. There is enough for three more meals.
All else is well onboard. Tomorrow we head to the port of Lautoka, the second largest city in Fiji.
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10/14/2007, Nananu-I-Ra Island, Fiji
Today we motored 35 miles through a maze of reefs and small islands on the north coast of Viti Levu, the principle island of Fiji. The wind was very light, never over 10 knots. The route was marked with poles and sticks but they are poorly maintained and can never be completely trusted. Fortunately, we had good light all day so that the reefs were very obvious.
Our anchorage is in a small bay next to an island which appears to have a real estate development for foreigners, probably Kiwis. There are about a dozen very beautiful beach houses and some large opulent homes on the tops of hills. Also, there is a small "eco" resort on the bay.
All else is well onboard. Tomorrow we will continue heading west as long as the weather is good.
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