Venezia … Bellissima!!!
20 October 2009 | Venice, Italy
The mud in the cozy creek near Burano finally released Sangaris' fore and aft anchors early this morning as we headed back to Venice for a last night and day of touring ~ we still had more to see!! Our destination for a mooring was Isola Certosa and their recently developed Veneto di Venezia Marina, which had been highly recommended by cruising friends. And it was just right, as we were able to tie side to the main dock, plug in and quickly jump onto a vaporetto for a sunny afternoon in the city. We had saved the best, or at least most prominent, sights to last: today's tour: the Palazzo Ducale (Doge Palace) and Basilica di San Marco (St. Mark's Basilica).
Despite heaving crowds along the waterfront, there was no line to enter, so we began our tour at the Palace, which housed the fascinating government of Venice's rich and powerful empire and was home to its ruling Duke, or Doge (dohzh) for four centuries, about 1150-1550). The palace's incredibly ornate, 'frilly pink' exterior is Venetian Gothic ~ a fusion of Italian Gothic with a delicate Islamic flair. Once inside we marveled at the courtyard's mix of architectural styles with classical columns, Renaissance arches and niches, Baroque awnings, Gothic spires and a grand staircase topped with statues of Neptune and Mars, the former looking remarkably like a young Paul Newman! Designed to impress the Doge's visitors, stairs leading to the Doge apartments has a 24-karat gilded ceiling with an impressive 3-D pattern of art. Although the rooms are now sparsely furnished the place is 'wallpapered' with masterpieces by Tintoretto and Veronese ... lots of neck craning and oohs and aahs as Craig read the guide book and we meandered through the chambers. We finished with the "Bridge of Sighs" and extensive network of Palace prisons ... but no dallying in these cold rooms as the Basilica awaited.
Built in the 11th century to replace an earlier church, St. Mark's Basilica's distinctly Eastern architectural style underlines Venice's connection with Byzantium. One guide book cheekily described the bejeweled exterior as being decorated with 'booty' from sea captains returning from distant voyages, a kind of architectural Venetian trophy chest. The inside is equally impressive and glows with reflective golden mosaics (little glass tiles) and colored marble. We climbed the staircase up to the Loggia dei Cavalli, Museo, to see its highlights: the view of the massive cathedral's interior from the upper balustrade, ancient Greek bronze horses and the magnificent view of St. Mark's Square, the Piazzetta and "our" San Giorgio Maggiore marina. The photo of us (above) is taken looking across the Piazzetta, with views of the Doge palace on the left, the columns of St. Theodoro and St. Mark and the 'new offices' and biblioteca on the right.
Dusk came quickly and with it cool temps so cozy cicchetti bars beckoned and we made an evening of sampling divine fresh wines and Italian "tapas" before catching the last vaporetto back to Sangaris. Although the morning was again bright and warm, while tempted to do a last in-town stop, the forecast warned of high winds and rain in two days, so we weighed anchor and motor-sailed towards our winter home in Monfalcone.