Having spotted the mussel farm in the waters at the end of our anchoring cove, we set off about mid-day in the dinghy to 'chat up' the workers (who undoubtedly spoke no English, but, what the hey...) and see if they were open for public trade. Yes indeed! And boy was the price right ... 4 kilos for 6 �'� (that's only 88¢ per pound)! We assured the workers that we'd surely return for a bucketful. But the afternoon's plan was to visit Tivat, so we rounded the "Island of Flowers" catching curious glimpses of fully robed men and women working at what seemed to be an archeological dig on a monastery's hillside.

Once at the Tivat town quay we found the Deep Blue crew and walked over to "Marina Portonegro", a vast new luxury yacht marina and residential complex actively under construction on a former Montenegrin military base. Tastefully designed with all the bells and whistles of a first class operation, the marina has accepted clients (mostly "gold-plated" power yachts) for about a year. Interestingly we had first heard of the marina last year when they were inviting yachts, even small sailboats like Sangaris, to stay free of charge. This was a legitimate marketing scheme they felt would help them sell dockage and condos, but we hesitated a bit too long. Oh well, we rationalized, surely there would have been a tremendous amount of dust and construction noise.

Chris knew quite a bit about the marina plans and operations as his brother's company will manage the adjacent huge shipyard for mega yacht repairs and general maintenance. It will be interesting to check back in and see if this significant investment and construction effort will be the success forecasted; likely yes as the location is extremely well protected and an international airport is ten minutes away ... an ideal place for crew to manage a big boat for a wealthy owner.

So cool drinks, gathering provisions from a local shop with very friendly "lady butcher" proudly selling dark, smoky ham (see photo) and, of course, savoring a bit of ice cream completed our afternoon.

It wasn't until the next morning that we undertook our mussel shopping trip. The smiling workers indeed spoke no English but we had correctly understood the quantity and price. Then, as we were preparing to leave, the owner appeared and, in perfect English, shared his culinary tips for steaming and flavoring. His name was "Darko" and he insisted that the best way to appreciate the mussels was to try tasting them his favorite way, cold and raw. Chris was game, as was Craig (you know, the one who is seriously allergic to scallops!) ... Sandra and Katherine stood by for photography and potential first aid duties.

They were indeed fresh but really salty and both guys gladly accepted Darko's invitation to wash down the mussels with some local white wine. At Darko's house next door, he introduced us to his wife Nina and the six of us had a great visit on their shady lawn looking out over their large mussel farm and pretty bay. Our welcoming hosts described their family's 40 year residence in this idyllic spot and many of the tumultuous changes they've witnessed as properties changed hands, political unrest lead to war, refugees populated the adjacent island and the mussel farming and supply to Belgrade restaurants slowly developed. For Darko and Nina, who live and work in Belgrade, this has been both a summer haven and a very hard working endeavor; for Nina's parents and brother it's been full time for most of the last ten years. What a good experience for us to meet such nice folks and learn something about the local history.

Crusiers' notes: very good anchorage in SE end of bay off Stradioti island and the small "Island of Flowers", currently populated with refugees. Another small island sits due north and the monastery there provides a very pretty sunset picture. "777" says Stradioti is a former Club Med resort site and the little grass-roofed huts look like they may have been guest cottages in years past. The Island of Flowers is indeed bordered by colorful pink and white oleander blossoms, palm trees and many other tropical looking plant species. Darko & Nina's mussel farm is on the mainland just east of the small stone bridge.