Preveza and into the “Inland Sea”
03 September 2010
Preveza is a welcoming town and frequent stop for cruisers in the Ionian. It was even more welcoming for us as we were unexpectedly greeted by friends Daphne and Jim (s/v Qunitessence) who were standing on the town wall ready to take our lines and share tales of their travels since our last meeting in Siracusa, Sicily in May 2009. We happily entertained aboard Sangaris and accepted their invitation for dinner the following night. In between "catching up" we successfully shopped for a new fresh water pump, cockpit table, a "WIND" internet top-off, various provisioning bits. We filled the water tank and gave the boat a much needed washdown ... all gratis whilst tied stern-to the quay as it was after the seasonal 'rush'. Though not populated with many cruising boat crew, the trendy bars and cafes along the waterfront and charming backstreet tavernas were bustling with Greek tourists.
It was cool and rainy most of our time at the dock, but as soon as it cleared on Monday morning, we sailed around the corner and into Amvrakikos Kolpos, the Gulf of Amvrakia aka the Inland Sea. We anchored off Nikopolis and took the bikes in the next day to see the ruins of this "Victory City" built by Octavian to commemorate his defeat of Anthony and Cleopatra at the battle of Actium. We won't go into all the historic battle details, but it was a strategic win and one that effectively determined the course of the Roman Empire. What you see in the photo montage are remains of the Nikopolis stadium where athletic games and musical events held as well as the huge carved stones that used to form the pediment at the top of Octavius' monument. There was little signage, no guides nor fellow tourists, 'just us' and our imaginations of the long past grandeur of this ancient site.
Dinghy-ing the bikes back to Sangaris we set off on fast beam reach across about 10 miles to anchor off the pine treed peninsula near Vonitsa. The evening sunset beyond the Venetian castle and fort and then the night-time lights around its perimeter made for a truly lovely and "sticky" spot. So "sticky", in fact, that we were "stuck" for three days, enjoying biking around town, hiking to the top of the Venetian fortress and enjoying the calm conditions that usually define the anchorages around this beautiful inland sea.
Cruiser's notes: Given "low season" we could have side-tied and med-moored anywhere along the quay. Water was available from taps hidden under concrete blocks in the gardens along the waterfront. No charge during our September visit!