A "must stop" on the cruisers' itinerary along "the sole of the boot" of Italy is Roccella Ionica. It is attractive, complete with pine tree lined bike paths, a broad, sunny lungomare and beachfront, and a marina restaurant serving thin-crust pizza by the meter!! But, it is the "gratis" accommodation that attracts we frugal sailors, with a free stay for up to five nights in a well constructed (EU funded) marina.

Although there's no electricity, there is unlimited fresh water and Sangaris has been in dire need of a washdown from bow to stern and masthead to deck. After two days of cleaning, including the docklines and halyards getting a soak and barefoot "grape stomp" washing in the "dinghy tub" we reward ourselves with a scrumptious half meter pizza.

With many chores done we also plan a daytrip to a nearby hilltop village. We chat up a local fisherman (who had a restaurant career in Bloomfield, NJ of all places!) and are assured that it is very easy to get to our destination of Stignano, "only 25 minutes away". Well, after a two hour wait for a bus, a transfer at an unexpected stop and a 45 minute journey up mountain roads with the bus blasting its air horn at each hairpin turn, we alight from the bus at the bottom of the town. Our uphill walk is pleasant and the olive treed landscape set against the Ionian Sea backdrop provides a beautiful panorama. Locals greet us with curiosity and a welcoming spirit as the town seems to attract few tourists.

Stignano is certainly an unusual destination, but we've got a connection! Catherine Peronace, mother of our good friend and former HYC-er Janet DiNapoli, grew up there and, having recently published her memoirs, was especially keen on us seeing her town and bringing back some photos.

Our first stop, then, was Il Municipio, the Town Hall, where we met the charming Vittorio. He is wonderfully accommodating and genuinely interested in combing through volumes of handwritten ledgers to find details of Catherine's family roots. He knew of a few Aunts, Uncles & cousins (most having emigrated to America, Canada and even Australia) and was delighted when he found Catherine's birth certificate. His generosity continued as he insisted on "closing up shop" and taking us to meet his friends for a coffee at a local bar. Yummy, foamy machiatos, lots of broken "Italglish" conversation and then were ready to continue our quest.

We photographed village churches, alleyways, gardens, hillside vistas, even some "for sale" real estate, and then came upon an "alimentiari' (an 'everything' food store) and cafeteria called "Peronace". Of course we had to go in and meet the husband and wife owners. She was indeed a Peronace, but had no recollection of any link with Janet's relatives. Oh well, but again we are generously treated to a drink, this time a mini Peroni,Biera, but no food is on offer as it's either too early or maybe the wrong day. We're not quite sure which, but did think lunch might be nice as we had 3 hours before the one & only return bus.

Watching a customer talking animatedly - this is Italy, afterall - with the owner, who spoke "un picola Engilsh", we learned that she, Anna, wants show us the countryside and drive us back to the coast! Hey, why not? And here la adventura really begins as she has No English and we are struggling, dictionary in hand, to make some small talk in Italian.

It's very pleasant, though, and after a few funny misunderstandings we found ourselves at her simple home where, totally unexpected by us, she prepares a large meal for us using a bit of everything she has in the house. Then, "Andiamo! Andiamo!" ("Let's go", Let's go!""), and it is time to go visit her Mother who owns a large tract of olive grove land nearby. The communication antics continue and we do our best to tell our stories and hear "Nonna's" : of her 9 children, love of gardening, fear of the water (no way does she want to go out on our boat!) and strong recommendation that I should use "tinta" on my now, naturally 'salt+/pepper' hair! It was a funny and endearing exchange and afternoon. Finally it is time for our hostess Anna to go to work and drive us home, but not before she and her Mom, Lina, lavish us with gifts of peppers and eggplant from their gardens, a kilo(!) of fresh, homemade cheese and 2 liters(!) of olive oil from their stock. What incredible hospitality and generosity in a real Calabrese country home! Grazie mille Anna i Lina!!