SANGARIS

2014 Log: Italy & Islands

18 July 2014
06 July 2014 | Trapani, Sicily
02 July 2014 | Ragusa to Trapani, Sicily
21 June 2014 | San Vito lo Capo, Sicily
04 June 2014 | Padova and Venice
03 June 2014 | Marina di Ragusa, Italy
01 September 2013
31 August 2013
29 August 2013
13 August 2013
27 July 2013
25 July 2013 | (In 200 BC, that is!)
24 July 2013 | Samos, Greece
24 July 2013

Check-in at Zelenika, Dobardan Montenegro!

17 July 2010
It was a hot, hot motor sail south to Montenegro so, even with only 20 miles to go, the crew needed two cool-off swim stops in surprisingly warmer, deep blue and crystal clear water. Entering "Boka Kotorska" - "the Mouth of Kotor", the Adriatic's only fjord, we proceeded to Zelenika's Custom's Dock to check into Montenegro. Held off by enormous black rubber bumpers, we moored Sangaris alongside and "Deep Blue" then rafted outside of us. It was then off to complete the check-in cha-cha with passports reviewed by the police followed by a visit to the "lady harbormaster" just a few houses to the west of the dock. We were greeted by a very helpful young woman who produced permits, entry papers and a Montenegron courtesy flag in exchange for 237‚'¨, our fee to stay in the country for one month. (137‚'¨ for one week, but we thought that might be too short a time).

We decided to delay our passage deeper into Boka Kotorska and simply anchored nearby off Igalo and Herceg-Novi, the fortified old city. We were well "dug-in" and just beginning to relax when the skies over the 2000 foot mountains went black with thunderclouds and hoolie of a storm quickly whipped up white-caps and huge rain drops that seemed to threaten changing to hail. Amidst tremendous bolts of lightning and winds gusting to 45 knots, our boats danced about but were well separated for plenty of swinging room even with some 200 feet of anchor chain deployed. Although Deep Blue, some 200 yards away, was hardly visible to us during the peak of the storm, a brilliant lightning bolt on the hillside behind us got our immediate attention as within minutes it became a raging fire being spread like a fierce blow-torch-like by the gale force winds.
The storm passed within about 2 hours and the sky cleared to a brilliant rosy orange, but the fire raged on all night and most of the next two days as the charred edge was reignited with wind shifts and, because of the mountainous and inaccessible terrain, fire fighters were only able to establish a defensive line near some homes at one end of the fire. Finally though, around noon the next day, two small planes arrived and began efforts to drop fire retardant chemicals on the steep mountainside to finally control the blaze.

On Monday, with calm wind and a flat sea, we 'dinghied' ashore to explore Herceg-Novi, whose origins date back to the 14th century and history includes Turkish, Spanish, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian rue. The waterfront was bustling with beachgoers, so we climbed one on the numerous stone staircases to check out the city walls and fortresses decorated with lush Mediterranean vegetation of mimosas, eucalyptus, agaves, oleander and magnolias. A stop midway at the Sahat Tower (clocktower) and a café for refreshing iced coffees readied us for the trek up to the Kanli Kula fortress where we had fantastic views of the old town, our boats in the distance and the unyielding smoke on the hillside.

That disturbing landscape, along with the incessant pounding of (sigh, American) "music" from beachfront clubs and an afternoon wind that seemed to be building, led us to get underway and find a calmer anchorage for the night. Amazing mountain vistas and small orange roofed villages delighted us as we sailed through the first narrow opening of the Boka fjord. We found a perfect spot in the SE corner near the tip of Stradioti Island that we soon re-named "monastery bay" for its sunset view and the next day renamed it "Mussel Bay" ... more to come!

Crusiers' notes: as per our "lady harbormaster" there are no harbor dues, town quay charges or anchoring fees collected in Montenegro - your permit covers all except, of course, marinas where dockage includes water & electricity.. Also, the permits run Sunday-to-Sunday, so if you check in on a Monday and get, say a one week permit, it actually doesn't start until the following Sunday, so you really get almost two weeks! Virtually all former anchoring restrictions for military zones are gone (a few specifically posted small areas remain) and you're welcome to go anywhere
Comments
Vessel Name: SANGARIS
Vessel Make/Model: Amel Santorin - a 46'/14m Ketch
Crew: Katherine and Craig Briggs
About:
In 1999, Katherine and Craig "sold up" to go cruising aboard their 46' Amel Santorin ketch "SANGARIS" and since then have sailed some 25,000 miles. Leaving Florida they headed south to the Caribbean, then west along the "Spanish Main" coast of South America to Colombia and Panama. [...]
SANGARIS's Photos - Main
55 Photos
Created 3 June 2014
9 Photos
Created 11 May 2013
66 Photos
Created 11 May 2013
A tour around the North Dodecanese islands of Greece
59 Photos
Created 11 July 2012
"On the hard" and around Leros Island, Dodecanese, Greece
30 Photos
Created 9 July 2012
30 Photos
Created 22 June 2012
October 2011
35 Photos
Created 17 October 2011
September/October 2011
16 Photos
Created 9 October 2011
September & October, 2011
43 Photos
Created 9 October 2011
16 Photos
Created 19 September 2011
27 Photos
Created 26 July 2011
25 Photos
Created 8 July 2011
23 Photos
Created 7 July 2011
9 Photos
Created 27 June 2011
22 Photos
Created 26 June 2011
Anchored in Navarinou Bay and free marina in town - walks to castle, bay north, Nestor's Cave and Giavola Lagoon.
25 Photos
Created 23 June 2011
train trip from Katalolon, west coast Pelopponese, Greece
19 Photos
Created 11 June 2011
Inland trip with Sandra & Chris April 2011
40 Photos
Created 18 May 2011
Return to Sangaris via Athens
11 Photos
Created 16 May 2011
two day tour of ancient city before departure from Athens to USA
30 Photos
Created 16 May 2011
Arrival October 2010 and April/May 2011 in Marina Messolonghi
27 Photos
Created 16 May 2011
30 Photos
Created 8 October 2010
4 Photos
Created 5 October 2010
3 Photos
Created 23 July 2010
25 Photos
Created 16 July 2010
37 Photos
Created 7 July 2010
20 Photos
Created 25 June 2010
Marina & town resources
9 Photos
Created 20 June 2010
An inland touring day in Slovenia's capital city
21 Photos
Created 19 June 2010
Day trip in wine country
14 Photos
Created 19 June 2010
57 Photos
Created 18 October 2009
13 Photos
Created 21 August 2009
Old town & Gelato
4 Photos
Created 14 July 2009
Otranto's Aragonese castle and Romanesque Cathedral with 12th C Floor Mosaic
8 Photos
Created 14 July 2009
4th of July at anchor at the "Heel" of the "Boot" of Italy
6 Photos
Created 13 July 2009
Wash-down at the marina and a day trip to the hillside village of Stignano in search of a friend's ancestral roots
12 Photos
Created 13 July 2009
Escape from Siracusa ... and an unexpected detour to Catania
7 Photos
Created 12 July 2009
Trip to Palermo for a notarized signature plus some sightseeing
7 Photos
Created 12 July 2009
Launch day at Cantiere Navale di Benedetto
4 Photos
Created 12 July 2009
New Bikes to the Amphitheater for Greek Drama - in Italian!
7 Photos
Created 12 July 2009
"Infiorata" Flower Petal Art Competition and Noto's Baroque Architecture
10 Photos
Created 12 July 2009
Friends and sights in Siracusa, Sicily, May 2009
14 Photos
Created 12 July 2009
Siracusa and the boatyard
21 Photos
Created 11 July 2009