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2014 Log: Italy & Islands
See Sými!
10/14/2011, Sými, Dodecanese, Greece

Heading out from Keçi Bükü, Turkey, with a gentle northwest wind we were just able to fetch the Greek Island of Sými (Simi) and dropped anchor in delightful Pethi (Pédi) bay, right around the corner from Sými town.
After a delicious on-board BBQ, our plan was to put Sangaris on the Pethi town pier in the morning and hike to Sými town. We'd stop along the way at the hill (mountain!) top ruins of the Byzantine kastro, across to the hilltop upper town, Chorio, before heading down some 375 steps to the Sými Town harbor area called Gialos. It's arguably one of the most picturesque in Greece, surrounded by neo-classical houses and elaborate churches on the hillside.

We thought we'd try something new with this blog and post some of the scenes along the way - you can just scroll down to "See Sými" up close. There's more in the picture gallery, too. And, if you click on the Map link to the right, then select the Google earth link, you can zoom right in on these beautiful bays.

Looking back on Pethi Bay during our walk to Chorio - by the way, that's Turkey to the east in the background.

And here's SANGARIS side tied to the Pethi Pier.

Having walked over the hilltop from Pethi, we arrive in Symi's waterfront, Gialos.

Another waterfront vista of Gialos - cute little boat, eh?

And at one time, Symi was the sponge diving capital of the world!

Some wonderful Symi close ups to give you some sense of this magical place.

This sweet little thing is actually called "Katerina" - doncha love her?!

Cruiser's Notes: Late season - October - proved to be a great time to visit as all the "heaving" summer traffic was gone, the ancorage was almost empty and the town piers in both Pethi and Gaios had plenty of room. No charge at Pethi, where we were side-to vs. Med mooring in summer.

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Keep Scrolling Down - There's 4 - count 'em 4!- great new blogs below! Lotsa super new pics in the Photo Galleries, too!

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10/09/2011 | Jennie
WOW...great blogs...good job...
10/10/2011 | Attilio&Maria
Hi Craig, should adjust coords, you seem to be in the middle of Atlantic, nearby Azores , rather than in Turkey. Don't mind, only jealousy.... Cheers & Smack
10/11/2011 | Katherine & Craig Briggs
Thanks Attilio - have corrected it - a beautiful place! Craig & Katherine
10/12/2011 | Dick and Maxine Charlton
Where are you? We're looking for a break; maybe a couple, three weeks of sponging, sailing.

Will bring booze and be prepared to be regaled with tales from the seven seas?

Drop us a line.
Beaucoup Büküs!
10/09/2011, Keçi Bükü, Turkey

Here's an aerial view of Keçi Bükü ("Ketch-ee Bew-kew"), a beautiful anchorage with steep wooded hillsides spilling pine trees down to the waters' edge. We arrived here after a night in nearby Kuyulu Bükü, a smaller bay but just as much fun to say!

Tiny Kuyulu Bükü was especially tranquil with mostly birds as neighbors at this time of the year, while Keçi Bükü is a mile long bay with several good anchoring spots, great holding and full service Marti Marina that you can see at the top right of the picture. Never ones for $$ marinas, we anchored out and saw 46 knots of wind overnight. Sangaris danced about like crazy but our two anchors held tight!

At the south end of Keçi Bükü is the little village of Orhaniye with quaint shoreside family run restaurants and the delightful "Mama Market" where Dad welcomed us with a complimentary jar of "Pine Honey Mama" that was absolutely delicious. They've also got a Dolmuş (dol-moosh: bus) to Marmaris -5 Turkish Lira or $2.75 for the 40 minute ride. We'd heard great reports of Keçi Bükü so it was a choice destination for a few days of protection from the first southerly stormy system of the season plus a quick trip to visit the chandleries and other marine industry shops in Marmaris.

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10/20/2011 | paula
So was the food?
Flora and Fauna en-route to the Ruins
10/09/2011, Bozburun, Turkey

Several walks, some rock-clambering climbs and waterfront strolls entertained the Sangaris crew during our nearly week-long stay near Bozburun. Our favorite trek took us from the stone beach and primitive gullet hauling center in "Oleander Bay" south to a point overlooking the narrow Kizil Adasi passage and the site of some interesting ruins. Along the way the camera clicked off flora and fauna shots to give you a sense of the scenery and characters we met along the way. The top right photo is a deluxe 16 passenger gullet called Wicked Felina that was anchored stern-to nearby Sangaris - Google it for more details if you like, she's only $20,000 a week to charter, but you can split it 16 ways.

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10/13/2011 | Elisabeth
....... and I can vouch how much fun it is to cruise on a Gullet, I was there four days this September. Well, Sangaris is more private, but the Gullet is great for a tour group.
Bozburun, Turkey

After a one night stop in now familiar Datça (rhymes with "gotcha" - remember?) we sailed SE to the pretty and very well-protected bays around Bozburun on Monday night. Although not apparent in the approach, once closer, the surrounding landscape divides into multiple islands encircling a 2 mile long bay with gorgeous anchorages and a village with a distinctive mosque at the north end. And, yes, this Turkish gem has bright turquoise waters, green hillsides and colorful produce markets. Like most cities in Turkey, there's the ever present statue of Mustafa Kemal - the "father of Turkey" or "Ataturk" (He's on the right - easily mistaken for Craig, who's actually the one on the left.)

Bozburun was once the Turkish equivalent of the Greek sponge fishing center of Simi; a modest tourism income from visiting private boats and multi-passenger "Gulets" (yacht or sailing ship in Turkish) now replaces that industry. In fact, many of these 70' to 100' wooden gulets that operate out of Bodrum and Marmaris are actually made and maintained along the Bozburun shores. And talk about "DIY" - look at the size of that big gullet seemingly on the beach in the bottom left pic - it was hauled using an antique wooden skid system and must have been labor intensive to say the least.

Tuesday was market day so we followed a trail of locals and international sailors to find the tent-like stalls filled with house-goods, clothing and abundant fresh and dried food selections. While the fruit, nuts and cheeses were tempting, the real draw were the spices, most 'handcrafted' and the vendors gave us small bits to rub between our fingers and inhale or taste the savory aromas. A great sales technique as several small bags of a dry rub with oregano, cardamom, garlic, thyme & various chiles will be tucked in our bags back to the U.S.

Somehow it is already Friday morning as I write this! See the next blog with photos from local hikes that became fun daily excursions. We also - finally - met up with fellow cruisers Carol & Gus aboard "Indigo" when an afternoon visit became an evening BBQ and lively conversations stretched long into night.

Cruisers' notes: The fresh sea breezes and surrounding clear waters make the anchorage near the N Kizil Adasi passage a delight; Sangaris' home for most of the week was "Oleander Bay" on the west side of Bozburun, anchored in 10 meters with excellent holding and 10 minute dinghy ride to the village. Laundry services (wash & dry) available at local restaurant "Adalasan"; 15 TL/load; a little pricey but well done and with hot water!

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10/20/2011 | paula
Yum, I look forward to sampling the spices!
Bodrum, Turkey

A quest to see some historic sights and have a special meal out to celebrate Sam's birthday led us to the south shore of the Bodrum peninsula and its city center. Approaching from the sea, Bodrum makes an unforgettable impression with its 15th c. Castle of St. Peter standing high on a rocky peninsula dividing the modern town's bustling vehicle-free east eastern sector and the quieter western hub and yacht harbor. We stayed one night at the Milta Bodrum Marina, on the first dock near the entrance, which afforded us some welcome cooling breezes and an uninterrupted evening view of the castle illuminated in a golden light .

Arriving early, we were off by mid-day to walk along the tree-lined town quay with huge wooden gulets tied gunn'l to gunn'l. This side of town is white-washed, flower-decked, and charming with beckoning cafes and restaurants. Our noses led us to a traditional kofte (meatball) house where platters of grilled shish and brightly colored salads were offered up at shady sidewalk tables. Kath's lunch was grilled chicken kebab atop a pile of tomato strewn arugula (tastiest yet) but the real winner was the house specialty: hünkar beğendili köfte: a selection of lamb and beef meatballs with a "sultan delight" of pureed tomato, aubergine and cheese. Topped off with a glass of local ayran, a salty yogurt drink, Sam was a sated and happy birthday boy.

We were now ready to explore Bodrum's most distinctive landmark - the castle of St Peter which was begun in 1406 by the Knights of St John, with five massive stone towers representing the nationalities of its formidable inhabitants. When Suleyman the Magnificent conquered Rhodes in 1523 both Bodrum and Rhodes came under Ottoman rule and the knights left for Malta. Neglected for centuries, the castle became a prison in 1895 and was damaged by shells from a French warship during WWI. In the early 1960's it was used to store artifacts found by local sponge divers. This led to a fruitful Turkish-American partnership to restore the castle and put on display the fantastic undersea treasures found around Turkey. Their innovative reconstructions of ancient shipwrecks and their glass and amphorae cargo were fascinating and, not surprisingly, have brought the underwater archaeology museum international acclaim. And we're talking ancient as one ship was dated to 1025 in the Fatimid-Byzantine era! The photos above give you a glimpse of our experience, more to be added to the gallery soon!

The next morning Jen and Sam packed up while Kath & Craig wandered around the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, some of Bodrum's back street neighborhoods and finally arrived at the old stadium's weekly Market that was in full swing. The backpack was soon full of fresh veg, fruit, herbs and some local offerings of gözleme (GURZ-leh-MEH) - folded flat bread with spinach and cheese - and lovely zucchini blossoms filled with a tasty lamb & rice mixture to serve as starters for our guests' last supper aboard before the next morning's flight from Kos, to Athens, to Paris and home to Boston.

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10/09/2011 | Jennie
Great to see our visit up in the blog....we have been enjoying our Turkish spices and goods from Bodrum!!!
10/20/2011 | paula
Beautiful, you all look so happy!!
Old Goat and Skeleton
10/06/2011, Bozburun, Turkey

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10/08/2011 | Attilio
our compliments, Kath&Craig, still sailing and enjoying mild Turkish autumn. We will use your blog next year our criuse. Cheers from Maria&Atiilio
10/09/2011 | Sandra & Chris
We didn't realize that Craig was trying his hand at becoming a ventriloquist! Have you heard the one about .....................
10/20/2011 | paula
We need this to ward off the evil neighbors(BOCA)!!
Jen & Sam's Turkish Adventures II
Jennifer Briggs and Sam Zahine
09/27/2011, Datҫa Peninsula, Turkey

Knidos has a spectacular bay to anchor in, with crystal blue water and ancient ruins from the 4th Century B.C. along the bay. The city of Knidos was nestled on the slopes of 2 hills overlooking the bay where 2500 years ago seafaring merchants would be plying their trade in the eastern commercial bay under the watchful eyes of the military triremes in the western bay. The south hills, located on a small island were home to the working folk of Knidos, while across the bay on the north side lived the wealthy and powerful. The north hills were home to artists and scientists. Praxiteles sculpted a statue of Aphrodite, one of the first statues of a nude woman, which attracted much attention and many visitors. Eudoxos was an astronomer and one of the founding fathers of Greek geometry. The north hills also contained an amphitheater, temples to the muses and Dionysius, a larger theater, an acropolis and Eudoxos' observatory which has not been unearthed yet.

From Knidos, we headed to the town of Datҫa to replenish our supplies and do some shopping. (That "ҫ" is a "ch", as in "Gotcha".) While Mr. Briggs was refilling the water tank, the three of us headed into town in search of provisions. Braving the sweltering heat, we journeyed inland to find a grocery store by the name of MiGros. On the way, we spied many boutiques selling Turkish wares and small stores selling olive oil, honey and other local delicacies. We sampled some of the local food, kofta shic (spicy minced lamb) wrapped in bread, Ayran (buttermilk) and fresh figs (enough to sate even Jen's appetite). Once our stores were full of food and our bags full of trinkets, we headed to Yolluca Adasi to anchor for the night.

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10/03/2011 | Sandra & Chris Mennem
Wow, Jen & Sam - what a fantastic trip you had. You all look so happy. Having sailed with Katherine & Craig, and you too Jen, over these past couple of years, we've missed you all this year but reading the blogs has partly filled the gap. Hope to see you all in the US of A over the winter. Love to all. Sandra & Chris XXXXX
Jen & Sam's Turkish Adventures
Jennifer Briggs and Sam Zahine
09/27/2011, Turkey's Carian Coast

Our first day was a restful day in a lovely anchorage near Aspat Koyu where we relaxed, swam, visited and were catered to with fine food and wine aboard Sangaris. We then returned to Kos Greece to visit the old town and castle before catching a ferry to Turgutreis, Turkey to officially check into the country. Sangaris sailed over to meet us in Turkey and with passports stamped and the crew list up to date we were officially off to explore the Turkish Coast. We had a perfect mix of sailing adventures between ports, calm bays to anchor with swimming and walking on land to investigate the landscape and small villages including Gümülsük and Knidos.
Gümülsük was a short sail north of Turgutreis and was a very small quaint town where the local feature was highly decorated gourdes hanging from trees. We wandered the small streets of Gümülsük, visiting the small artisanal shops before tasting Turkish tea and coffee. We finished the evening with a very nice dinner at one of the local waterfront restaurants. Dinner consisted of fresh calamari, cheese pastry for appetizers, lamb kabobs, shrimp and meat casserole for entrees. We finished the dinner with Aloa (weird sweet peanut paste), baklava and Turkish Tea. We anchored across from Gümülsük on a small bay off the little island of Catalada. The following morning we started the longer sail (28 miles) to the ancient city of Knidos.

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11/04/2011 | Miryam
Hola Jeni te ves hermosa me alegra mucho que estés
feliz :)
Te quiero mucho tu amiga Miryam..

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