Voyages of Sarah Jean II

Port McNeil to Pruth Bay

19 May 2017 | Vancouver
Norm
Port McNeil - North Island Marina 50' 35.51" N, 127' 05.43" W

Port Mcneil was a convenient and practical place to stop. The Port Hardy airport is only about 1/2 hour away and made it easy for Beth to fly home to visit her mom. While this harbour not particular cute, in the Ganges sort of way, Port McNeil has fuel, laundry, groceries, marine shops, several banks and a good coffee shop all within a few minutes walk from the marina. Steve and Jessica, the young owner/operators of North Island Marina are super friendly and helpful, even letting us borrow their van to run some errands.

God's Pocket Dive Resort on Hurst Island 50' 50.41" N, 127' 35.59" W

We left Port McNeil in wet and blustery conditions with 15-20 knots SE blowing us up Queen Charlotte Strait. With only the genoa for power we still made quick progress up the Strait. Just short of our destination the wind changed from SE to NW over the course of about 30 seconds! Oh well - time to put away the sail anyway, we're almost there! We dropped the hook just in front of the resort in about 50 feet of water in calm conditions. We found the bay pretty tight and were concerned about staying there overnight with only 3:1 scope.

God's Pocket is a little indent on the north side of Hurst Island. It was named by fisherman at the turn of the century who used it for refuge when storms churned up the seas out in the Strait. It then became a steamship stop and then a fishing resort. The present owners, Annie and Bill, bought the place about 20 years ago and changed it into an eco oriented dive and kayaking resort. They greeted us upon arrival and we quickly learned that we both had family on Mayne Island. Small world!

There were no guests when we visited. Annie and Bill were having a short break before the summer season started. They invited us to wander around. We loved the funky character and brilliant colours of the various cottages and out buildings. We are tropical water divers, but for those with dry suits and other cold water gear, this looked like a fabulous place to hang out for a while. The diving is reported to be some of the best on the BC coast.

See photo gallery.

Harlequin Bay - Seeking Refuge 50" 50.43" N, 127' 33.90 W

With a frontal system forecast to produce NW winds of 25 knots around midnight we both agreed that God's Pocket was too sketchy for an overnight anchorage. We liked the look of Harlequin Bay on the SE side of Hurst Island so pulled up the anchor and motored around the island to check it out. Weaving through a minefield of rocks we found a nice spot in the lee of the island where we could lay out lots of scope. We saw no harlequin ducks but did spot some furry sea otters! The forecast was accurate - it started howling at about midnight. While the anchorage provided good wind protection, swell from Queen Charlotte Strait wrapped around the headlands making for a lumpy night and not much sleep.

Passage Across Queen Charlotte Sound to Fury Cove 51' 29.67" N, 127' 45.58" W

Once of the challenging legs of this trip is getting across the open ocean area of Queen Charlotte Sound, located between the northern tip of Vancouver Island and Calvert Island where protection can be found again. The prevailing winds are NW so we decided to work our way up Goletas Channel and then exit into the open salt chuck through Shadwell Passage. This would give us the best wind angle across the Sound to Fury Cove and it turned out to be a good strategy.

The morning of departure was clear and crisp with a fresh NW breeze of about 25 knots kicking up galloping horses in Queen Charlotte Strait. So we motored our way up the more protected Goletas Channel in lighetr 15 knot winds and flat seas, waiting for the wind to settle down as forecast. Once through Shadwell Passage and out into open ocean the wind backed to a moderate westerly, setting us up for an amazing close reach all the way across the Sound. The sky stayed crystal clear all day giving us great views of the endless chain of snow capped peaks along the coast. But all good things must come to an end. After an epic sail the wind died just before landfall. We motored into the well protected inner lagoon at Fury Cover and anchored in about 40 ft. Once again, we had the anchorage to ourselves!

With a small sandy beach and many tree covered islets we found it a beautiful and restful spot after a long day of sailing. The warmth of the sun gave an encouraging hint of the summer weather to come. Happy hour was on the foredeck, followed by dinner in the cockpit! Great to finally be outdoors in the evening!

See photo gallery.

Pruth Bay and West & North Beaches 51' 39.28" N, 128' 07.44" W

Pruth Bay is located on Calvert Island about 20 miles NW of Fury Cove. This makes for an easy morning trip passage, leaving the afternoon to explore the fabulous west coast beaches. We were lucky to have the rare combination of SE wind and sunshine, making for a great downwind sail up Fitz Hugh Sound. When we rounded Wedgborough Point into Kwakshua Channel the wind died and temperature went up. Enjoying the sunny and calm conditions Norm untied the dinghy on the foredeck to get ready for going ashore. That was a mistake! As we approached the end of the channel strong wind gusts off the ocean nearly blew the dinghy off the deck! He won't do that again. We anchored in about 50 feet just east of the substantial dock of the Hakai Marine Institute.

A few years ago this bay was the site of a private fishing lodge. But it is now a privately funded marine research and teaching centre. The good news is they do not mind cruisers walking through the grounds to the beaches on the west side of the island, and even have a designated dinghy dock for visitors!

A well marked trail took us to a massive white sand beach. Dotted with tiny islands, crystal clear water, surf rolling in, West Beach was an idyllic west coast paradise. And it was all ours! We strolled north along the beach and found the trail to the North Beach. This 15 minute hike was a little more gnarly with muddy sections and a few climbs, but there were boardwalks and stairs here and there. The trail opened onto a huge, calm crescent shaped beach. It was well protected from the SE wind making it hot and sunny! Time for T-shirts and a few yoga stretches on the beach!

See photo gallery.

Alert Bay

12 May 2017 | Alert Bay on Cormorant Island
Norm
Last week we spent a couple of days exploring the interesting First Nations community of Alert a Bay on Cormorant Island near Port McNeil. As we strolled along the rocky beach a lone orca surfaced nearby. This photo celebrates the occasion. Native culture and tradition abound on the this small island that was once home of a huge, bustling fishing fleet of over 1,000 boats. See the Alert Bay album in the Gallery section of the blog for more photos .

Alaska Bound

07 May 2017 | Alert Bay
Beth
We're cruising again! It's been almost 4 years since we sailed home from the South Pacific (2010-2013). Beth went back to work at Access Community Therapists and we moved her mom closer to us in White Rock. Norm spent countless hours volunteering for the Bluewater Cruising Association (BCA) and for the past 2 years ran Ocean Forest Voyaging, our own offshore sailing school operating on the BC coast. We spent lots of time on the water introducing people to the joys of cruising.

But now it's time for us to cruise again! Beth retired (again) and now we're heading north to SE Alaska for 5 months. It feels wonderful to be living on the boat again, exploring new places and being closer to nature.

We left Vancouver on May 1, 2017, stopped to visit family in Comox, and now we are in Alert Bay in the Broughtons. The other day we rode the ebb up Johnstone Strait under sunny skies, taking in the mountain vistas of Vancouver Island, spotted killer whales, delighted in dolphins playing in our bow wake and thrilled to the shrill cry of eagles. The icing on the cake was watching 2 black bears playing on the beach at our anchorage as the sun set.

It doesn't get much better than that!

The Shores We Call Home

06 August 2013
We may have left the South Pacific behind but we are continuing to enjoy spectacular cruising right here in our home waters of the Pacific Northwest. Tonight Sarah Jean II is relaxing on her mooring in Campbell Bay on Mayne Island. This is the view from the deck of Mayneport, the cozy waterfront home of Beth's mom, Sarah Jean I, that looks over the Strait of Georgia and Coast Mountains. Bora Bora, eat your heart out!

Vision of Joanna - Final Chapter

04 August 2013
Norm
For those of you following the adventures of Joanna, my apologies for the delay in getting this last chapter finished for you. Our arrival home has brought many wonderful distractions.

When we left the story, Jim and Katie aboard the sailboat Vision Quest had stumbled onto a small dugout canoe floating far out at sea. When Katie peered down into the canoe she had spotted the body of a small child and screamed in fright!

This is the final chapter. Thanks for reading along. I've had fun! Hope you have too!

VISION OF JOANNA - A Continuing Blog Adventure Set in Vanuatu

CHAPTER 11 - Homecoming

Joanna stirred, woken by a piercing shriek. Her nostrils were filled with the unpleasant smell of wet, rotting wood. She felt herself moving; swaying gently back and forth. Joanna opened her eyes only to close them again as a small wave of seawater sloshed against her face. Her head was spinning. Memories came flooding back; the charging boar, dropping headlong over the waterfall, frantically bailing during last night's storm at sea, and then laying in the wet canoe, exhausted, cold and alone; pleading to the stars for help.

Joanna quickly lifted herself up from the bottom of the dugout canoe and looked up. A green sailboat was looming overhead! The faces of two white people stared down at her, looking very concerned.

There was another shriek as Katie yelled out, "Jim! She's alive! Stop the boat!"

Shifting into reverse, he brought Vision Quest to a shuddering stop alongside the tiny canoe. Jim ran forward to where Katie was standing and looked down, shocked by the apparition below him. Never in his life had he seen such a sodden and bedraggled child. But as the girl sat up in the canoe and looked up at him, her big brown eyes wide with excitement, she smiled in a way that totally disarmed him. Jim had the strange feeling the little girl had been there in the canoe waiting for Vision Quest's arrival. Adding to this aura of mystery, around her neck hung a boar's tusk that formed a near complete circle, the mark of a chief. Even stranger, slung at her side like a sword, was an old and well used carving knife in a leather sheath.

Dazed by what he was seeing and feeling, Jim struggled to set up the boarding ladder but finally got it in place on the side of the boat. He then climbed down to the canoe. Without hesitation the little girl reached out to him. Jim lifted her up, depositing her on the deck where she stood, still smiling. She looked about; studying her new surroundings as if getting her bearings for future reference. Katie knelt down and hugged the little girl, holding her tightly to her chest. Tears of relief streamed down Katie's cheeks as she whispered in the girl's ear, "It's going to be OK now, little one." She took Joanna's hand and led her back to the cockpit while Jim found some line and tied the canoe to the stern of Vision Quest. In the bottom of the dugout he noticed a broken paddle and half of a coconut shell.

Katie hurried below and came back with a big fleece blanket that she placed around the little girl's shoulders, feeling the maternal need to bundle her up in something even though it was quite warm. She disappeared down the companionway again, returning with a plastic cup filled with cold water. Jim stepped back into the cockpit beside Katie where they both sat silently across from the rescued child, watching her, wondering what to do next. Joanna took small sips of water from the cup, still looking about, holding the edge of the blanket in one hand, enjoying its soft and comforting texture. She felt safe for the first time in several days.

"Do you speak English?" Katie asked, moving over beside Joanna.

"A little," she replied. "My brothers taught me some words. They learn English at school."

Katie nodded with relief; communication had been established. "My name is Katie and this is my husband, Jim. What's your name and where do you live?"

Feeling no threat in revealing her identity, the little girl said, "My name is Joanna but my friends call me Jo Jo. I live on Ambrym, the island with black beaches. And there are two volcanoes."

"Really? You're from Ambrym?" Jim said excitedly, joining the conversation. "We're on our way to Ambrym right now!"

Joanna nodded, smiling brightly.

Jim and Katie exchanged glances. The little girl did not seem too surprised by their destination. "What is the name of your village, Jo Jo?" Katie asked, and then added, "Is it OK if I call you Jo Jo?"

"It's OK. I like being called Jo Jo. My village is called Ranon. It's right by the sea. "

"That's exactly where we're going!" Jim exclaimed.

Joanna nodded again, put down her cup of water and pulled the blanket tightly around her, relieved she would be home soon. "When will we get there, Mr. Jim?"

"Soon, Jo Jo; we'll get there late this afternoon." Jim replied. "Tell us what happened. How did you get way out here? Ambrym is very far away."

"I was on the other side of Ambrym and I had do get away from old Chief Watson before he learned my name because he wanted Papa to pay him three pigs because I accidently fell into a cave with stars on the inside and he told me the cave was taboo! And then I fell onto a pile of bones. That was also taboo. They were bones from people the chief's family had eaten. I had to escape. So I borrowed an old canoe to get away and paddle back to my own village. I found the chief's messenger coconut and put it in the canoe so I thought I was safe but then there was a big storm and I was blown out to sea."

Jim and Katie had stunned looks of disbelief on their faces. Then Jim shrugged his shoulders at Katie, as if to say, "Don't ask me, I have no idea what she's talking about. Great story teller, though." Wanting to keep the flow of information going, Jim pointed to the boar's tusk and asked, "Jo Jo, that's quite a tusk you're wearing. Where did you find it?"

"I didn't find it, Mr. Jim. It found me! A wild boar chased me through the jungle. I hid inside the vines of a banyan tree but he found me there and tried to rip the vines away. It was very scary. I picked up a big rock and smashed him on his snout and broke the tusk off. Then he ran away." She touched her necklace. "Chief Watson didn't know my name so he called me Little Tusker and put black war paint on my face. Is it still there?" Joanna moved her hand from the tusk to her cheek. Katie swung around so she could have a better look. To her surprise there were streaks of black paint still visible on the little girl's face.

Jim's mouth was now hanging open. He was sure this was just a child's make believe story, but there was something about the way the little girl recounted the events that troubled him. He sensed she was unable to make up such a story; she had not hesitated for a second in the telling. Continuing to try to understand who she was and how she wound up floating directly in their path he asked Joanna another question. "Jo Jo, I've never seen anyone in Vanuatu wear a knife like a sword, let alone a little girl. And if I'm not mistaken that looks like a carving knife for making wooden sculptures; an old one that's been very well used."

Joanna reached down and pulled the knife out of its sheath and handed it to Jim, handle first, to look at. "Yes, Mr. Jim, it is a carving knife." she said. "My papa gave it to me. It's what got me in so much trouble. Some boys from my village took it and ran off with it into the jungle. They were teasing me. I ran after them and that's when the wild boar chased me!"

Katie had been thinking about Joanna's story. "Jo Jo, when did the boys take your knife? How long have you been away from home?" she asked.

Joanna thought about this for a moment. "That was four nights ago, I think." she replied, recalling all the strange places she had slept.

"Oh, my gosh!" Katie cried. "Your poor parents! They must be frantic with worry!"

A frown of concern spread across Joanna's face. "Yes, Miss Katie, you're right. They probably think I'm dead; that the wild boar got me and ate me up." She shuddered at the thought.

"Jo Jo, we better get you home to Ranon." said Jim, standing up. "We'll put your canoe up on the deck and get on our way. You're going to have quite a homecoming!"

While Jim hoisted the sails and got Vision Quest underway, Katie took Joanna below, toweled her dry and found her a small white T shirt to wear. It came down to Joanna's knees but she did not seem to mind. With her woven knife lanyard cinched tightly around her waist, Joanna appeared to be wearing a long white dress. She pulled out her tusk so it was visible on the outside of the T shirt.

The boat was now racing along over the waves, its sails filled with wind. Jim stood at the helm, steering the boat southward towards Ambrym. As Katie followed a few steps behind, Joanna went exploring Vision Quest, moving along the deck towards the bow of the boat. She had been on sailboats before but had never actually sailed. She felt the boat leaning over under the force of the wind. It was scary and thrilling at the same time! Joanna worked her way forward and climbed up on the cabin roof. She reached out and wrapped her arms around the sturdy white mast. It seemed a good place to hold onto and enjoy the ride. She looked up the mast, awed by the size of the two billowing white sails above her. Suddenly, a gust of wind hit Vision Quest. The boat heeled over to a steeper angle. Joanna hung on tightly. Spray erupted from the bow, flying back onto Joanna's face. Closing her eyes she was on the back of the great white bird again, skimming over the ocean, flying towards home!

Katie stood behind Joanna. Pointing into the distance, she said, "Look, Jo Jo! See that mountain just on the horizon? That's Ambrym! You're going to be home soon!"

Joanna turned around to face her and said, "Miss Katie, I can't see that far. I can only see things that are really close to me. Things far away are blurry; I just see shapes and colors."

Katie was stunned. She was an eye doctor but never would have guessed this little girl had a vision problem by the way she acted or moved around the boat. She walked towards the bow and shouted back to Joanna, "Can you see me clearly when I stand here?" She then moved a little further away. "How about here?" By the time Katie had reached the front of the boat it was clear to her that Joanna was extremely near sighted.

Taking Joanna's hand again, Katie led her back inside the boat to her eye examination room. "Jo Jo, sit up in my big chair. I want to have a look at your eyes. I think I can help you to see better!" Joanna climbed into the chair and sat on a fat cushion Katie had placed there. Katie swung her eye doctoring machine into position and began studying Joanna's eyes. As Joanna peered towards an eye chart projected on the wall, Katie flipped a series of corrective lenses in front of her eyes, asking Joanna, "Can you see the letters now? Say when you can see them more clearly. Can you tell me what they are? "

Joanna was silent for a moment. Then she said "Miss Katie, I don't know what those letters are called. I can't read. I don't go to school because my eyes are bad and Papa doesn't have enough money."

Katie was not too surprised. She had run into this before on many of the islands; no money meant no school. Poor vision made things even more difficult. Katie switched the eye chart on the wall to one with images of animals that she used for preschool children. "OK Jo Jo, tell me what animals you see on the top line. OK, how about the next line?" After fifteen minutes of trying to find just the right prescription, Katie was ecstatic! Joanna could now see even the tiniest images.

Joanna's vision problem had been corrected!

Reaching into her drawer of Kwik Glasses, Katie pulled out two pairs of small child-sized plastic frames. Holding them up she asked Joanna, "Which color do you like, Jo Jo, black or pink?" Without hesitation Joanna pointed to the pink plastic frames. Katie reached into a drawer full of lenses, selected the ones she needed and snapped them into the frames. She placed the completed glasses onto Joanna's nose and exclaimed, "Jo Jo, you look just like a movie star! Now let's go up top and see what you can see!"

Stepping out into the dazzling sunshine, Joanna stood in the cockpit looking about. She felt as if she was in another world where everything was new and bright and crisp. She could see the bow of the boat clearly! See all the way to the top of the mast. And the clouds; they had actual shapes! Then something very strange happened. Everything seemed to darken! Joanna removed her new glasses and was astonished to see that the lenses had magically changed color to a smoky green shade. They had become sunglasses!

Katie stood beside her, enjoying watching the little girl discover a whole new world. "Jo Jo," she said, pointing off into the distance again, "Look over there. Can you see Ambrym now?" Joanna looked where Katie was pointing. Then she nodded, grinning ear to ear. She reached over and wrapped her arms around Katie's waist and said, "Thank you, Miss Katie!"

Jim picked up Joanna's carving knife. It was still lying in the cockpit. Handing it to her, he said, "Jo Jo, you better put this back in its sheath before it falls overboard!" Joanna put the knife away.

"Your papa must be a carver; maybe he knows a man named Abraham Komo. That's who we're going to see on Ambrym. I think he lives in Ranon. Do you know him?" Jim asked.

"Yes, I know him." replied Joanna. "I mean, I used to know him."

"What do you mean, where did he go?" asked Jim, becoming alarmed.

"Abraham Komo was my grandpapa. He died last month. He had been sick for many years. He couldn't walk or even talk anymore. Papa was very sad when he died but said it was good. I still don't understand what he meant."

Jim was silent, disappointed by this news. Then he said, "I'm very sorry to hear that Jo Jo."

Joanna touched the knife and said, "This was Grandpapa's knife. He once told me it was a magic knife; that it carved the wood all by itself. When he got sick he gave it to my papa. He is a carver too. He makes beautiful things like Grandpapa did."

Jim reached out and removed Joanna's knife from the sheath and studied it thoughtfully. "How long had your grandpapa been sick before he died, Jo Jo? " he asked, wondering who had carved the amazing masterpiece that had passed through his gallery last year.

"Oh, he was sick for a long time." replied Jo Jo, "He was always in bed, ever since I was a little girl."

Jim nodded. "Well, Jo Jo, I have a feeling your papa, using your magic knife, is the great carver I am looking for. I'm can't wait to meet him and see his work. I hope to keep him very busy making carvings for my gallery in New Zealand. What is his name?"

Joanna beamed. "His name is Lucas Komo." She already knew Papa was special. And now he would have lots of carving work, possibly more than he could handle. Maybe she would be able to help him in his carving shed. Her head spun with the possibilities. She was so excited for Papa! And for herself!

As if reading her thoughts, Katie sat down beside Joanna and said "You know Jo Jo, if Mr. Jim hires your papa to make carvings for his gallery, there will be enough money for you to go to school, that is if you want to. Your eyesight is very good now so seeing the blackboard wouldn't be a problem. What do you think? If you go to school when you grow up you could become whatever you want; a teacher, a doctor, maybe even a great chief! You already have a tusk!"

Joanna was overwhelmed. She had never thought about the possibility of going to school with her brothers. The idea thrilled her; it would be a dream come true! She smiled up at Katie and said, "Yes, I would like to go to school, Miss Katie. I would like that very much!"

Katie looked at Jim. She did not have to say anything. They had played this game before with other talented artisans in the islands. Jim would commission Lucas Komo to carve for his gallery in Auckland, making him a wealthy man by Vanuatu standards. But in return, Jim would expect Lucas to put all his children through school, including Jo Jo. This would be part of the deal. For both Jim and Katie, helping to better educate the children of Vanuatu was one of the ways they could make a difference in the lives of these wonderful people. And tiny Joanna seemed to hold such amazing potential, her future yet to unfold. They knew she would become someone very special!

A few hours later Vision Quest dropped anchor just offshore from Ranon village on the northwest side of Ambrym. As Jim prepared the dinghy to go ashore Joanna stepped up beside him and said, "Mr. Jim, can you please put the little canoe back in the water for me? I would like to go ashore all by myself; before you and Miss Katie come. Would that be OK? But I'll need to borrow a paddle. Mine broke. "

Jim was no longer surprised by anything Joanna said. "OK." he replied, "That's fine with me. Let's get it into the water and I'll find something for you to use as a paddle. Katie and I will follow behind you in a few minutes in the dinghy. We really want to meet your mama and papa."

And so the little dugout canoe was lifted off the deck and lowered over the side of Vision Quest. Joanna climbed down the boarding ladder and took her place at the stern, paddle in hand. She was quite a sight, wearing Katie's long white T shirt, the knife strapped to her waist, her boar's tusk gleaming gold in the late afternoon sun. Her face was still streaked with black war paint. On her nose were bright pink glasses that matched the single battered pink flip flop she was wearing on her right foot.

A small crowd of villagers had gathered on the beach to welcome Vision Quest, as normally happened when a visiting yacht arrived. Jim and Katie stood on the bow, arm in arm, watching as Joanna paddled slowly towards shore. Then, word that something special was happening spread like wildfire throughout the village! More and more people appeared until the entire beach was filled with villagers, standing shoulder to shoulder along the water's edge. The crowd stood silently, dumbstruck by what they were seeing. Before them was little Jo Jo, the lost and nearly blind child, paddling slowly towards them, emerging out of the setting sun.

Papa, suddenly recognizing her, ran forward into the water, followed by Mama who was waving and crying out, "Jo Jo! Jo Jo!" The entire crowd followed, rushing into the sea, erupting in joyful cheers! Then, Joanna disappeared, lost in the welcoming embrace of her family and village. She was home!



Sarah Jean II - Arrival in Canada!

31 July 2013
Norm & Beth
As we rounded Amphitrite Point and turned into Ucluelet Harbor, familiar misty low clouds all but obscured the rocky islands around us, their shores piled high with logs, covered by dark fir and spruce trees bent by the wind. A steady procession of sport fishing boats streaked past us, returning from a day of angling. Ramshackle houses lined the beaches. Fishing boats were tied to the wharf, waiting to unload their catches. It was all so familiar; it felt so much like coming home.

We tied up to the government dock at about 7:30 p.m. where our friends from s/v Katie M II caught our dock lines and greeted us warmly with hugs and a bottle of cold Champagne. It was a wonderful welcome from fellow cruisers who fully understood the significance of our landfall. Customs clearance into Canada was quick and easy, accomplished with just a phone call. And then it was time to pop the cork, enjoy the bubbly and swap stories. This was followed by a great landfall dinner in Ucluelet, enjoying local seafood, of course. Beth had halibut and I had salmon. Delicious!

Returning to the government dock well past 11:00 p.m., a fairly late hour for us, we were amazed to find it swarming with adults and children with buckets and fishing rods. It was a party, with peals of laughter ringing out. Every few minutes there were shrieks of excitement as someone would call out, "I got one!" Intrigued, we watched for a while and then asked just what they were doing. We were amazed to learn they were fishing for squid. Huge schools had come to the surface and could be caught with bait and hook. Illuminated by the street lamp on the docks, we could see them swimming about like schools of fish. Some people, wearing heavy Cowichan sweaters, sat in lawn chairs drinking tea, watching as their kids squealed in delight when one of the little tentacled creatures was hauled onto the dock.

Last night we saw something interesting and new, quite delightful really. And it all happened right here in Ucluelet, a place we have been many times before. It was a wonderful reminder that our cruising life is far from over; that opportunities for discovery abound right here in our local waters!

Around noon today we will leave Ucluelet for a leisurely overnight sail down the Strait of Juan de Fuca to Victoria where more friends await to welcome us home.

***

PASSAGE FUN FACTS

Total distance Hawaii to Victoria: 3,077 miles

Time on Passage: 20 days

Our route: went north 10 days, turned at 48 N and 158 w, then went east for 10 days

Engine hours: a ghastly 180 hours over about 7 days of motoring or motor sailing

Fuel consumed: ¾ of main tank plus 10 jerry cans that we carried onboard - ouch!

Wind: first leg was great with about 14 kts, second leg the wind was light to non-existent
Vessel Name: Sarah Jean II
Vessel Make/Model: Saga 43
Hailing Port: Vancouver, BC
Crew: Norm and Beth Cooper
About: Our home is in White Rock BC. We set sail Sept. 8, 2010 for San Francisco, Mexico, the South Pacific and New Zealand. In April 2013 we will begin our voyage home through Hawaii, completing a 3 year Pacific circumnavigation.
Extra: We'd love to hear from you - send us an email at bethandnorm@gmail.com
Sarah Jean II's Photos - Main
Pruth Bay, located on Calvert Island, is an essential stop along the way. The harbour on the east side is well protected and provides access to west coast beaches by a short trail. The former fishing lodge is now a marine research centre. Visiting boaters are welcome to use their dinghy dock.
6 Photos
Created 18 May 2017
We enjoyed a great close reach across Queen Charlotte Sound under sunny skies. At the end of the day we anchored in Fury Cove, beautiful and secure with room for lots of boats . . . but we were alone!
3 Photos
Created 18 May 2017
This funky eco resort is located on the north side of Hurst Island. The area has some of the best diving on the BC coast.
7 Photos
Created 18 May 2017
Sointula is a remote but charming community located on Malcolm Island directly east of Port McNeil. It was established in 1901 by a group of Finnish settlers who wanted to create a utopian socialist society.
19 Photos
Created 12 May 2017
We spent a couple of days exploring this historic First Nations community located on Cormorant Island near Port McNeil.
11 Photos
Created 12 May 2017
Working our way north through Seymour Narrows and up Johnstone Strait.
11 Photos
Created 12 May 2017
A few photos as we head up the Strait of Georgia, kicking off our 5 month trip to Alaska.
4 Photos
Created 12 May 2017
We stopped in Hawaii for a rest and provisions but spent most of our time in the boat yard doing repairs. The photos are of a of a few days exploring wild and wacky Waikiki!
37 Photos
Created 8 July 2013
This was a vigorous upwind sail of 2,300 miles across the equator and the ITCZ.
22 Photos
Created 8 July 2013
We spent our time in the tiny village of Te Tetua. Wonderful, hospitable people. An island paradise! Penrhyn is famous for the fine weaving of hats and fans that the women do, and for the golden colored pipi pearls that are found only on this atoll.
49 Photos
Created 8 July 2013
We spent a couple of weeks here exploring by foot, scooter and snorkel.
20 Photos
Created 8 July 2013
On this passage we were joined by David as guest crew. We also ran into some heavy weather - the BIG LOW!
13 Photos
Created 8 July 2013
The Hauraki Gulf is the vast playground to the east of Auckland where there are many islands and anchorages to explore.
25 Photos
Created 17 March 2013
Located about 100 miles offshore northeast of Auckland, Great Barrier is wild and remote. Breathtaking beaches, abundant wildlife and excellent hiking. We spent a couple of weeks on The Barrier.
30 Photos
Created 17 March 2013
Kawau Island is just north of Auckland. We went to visit our friends Daniel and Michelle on s/v Evangeline. They introduced us to the famous offshore sailors Lin and Larry Pardey who live on Kawau.
21 Photos
Created 17 March 2013
A place with a funny name but it has a beautiful sandy beach and stunning grassy headlands for walking. A super anchorage in south or southeast winds.
11 Photos
Created 17 March 2013
This very protected bay just south of Cape Brett is the home of an old whaling station. It provides access to the Cape Brett trail where we tramped about one day.
4 Photos
Created 17 March 2013
Beutiful oddshore islands just south of Whangaroa Harbour. Clear water and good kayaking. Home of the wreck of the Rainbow Warrier.
9 Photos
Created 17 March 2013
An amazingly protected harbour north of the Bay of Islands. Great hikes with spectacular views.
10 Photos
Created 17 March 2013
A few shots around the lovely town and marina at Opua, our home away from home
19 Photos
Created 23 December 2012
We stayed here a few days en route to New Zealand from Noumea. It is a beautiful tropical setting at the very south end of New Caledonia.
26 Photos
Created 23 December 2012
Photos of our arrival into New Caledonia and the very modern City of Noumea, a startling contrast to Vanuatu.
47 Photos
Created 23 December 2012
This is a great anchorage. We stopped here when winds were in our face as we attempted to go south. Very pretty onshore!
10 Photos
Created 23 December 2012
A few shots of the Blue Hole, a spectacular freshwater spring near the town of Luganville.
8 Photos
Created 23 December 2012
Land of black volcanic beaches, black magic, wood carving and colorful kastom mask dancing!
50 Photos
Created 22 December 2012
A wonderful anchorage providing access to several villages. We saw the most amazing kastom dancing - performed by both men AND women! Balloons were a big hit with the kids!
27 Photos
Created 22 December 2012
Wearing only bits of grass and penis sheathes, thrusting spears into the air, they emerged out of the jungle stomping and chanting . . .
12 Photos
Created 22 December 2012
This where we helped bring a giant marlin to the villagers and where we saw some amazing traditional dancing. The next album is dedicated just to the dancing.
40 Photos
Created 22 December 2012
Home of dugongs and lots of sea turtles, this is an awesome anchorage!
12 Photos
Created 22 December 2012
The biggest city in Vanuatu where we stopped to stock up on food at the great public market.
12 Photos
Created 5 October 2012
This is the seldom visited anchorage where we stopped with friends to deliver much needed school supplies.
40 Photos
Created 5 October 2012
Views of the Port Resolution area including a visit to the fiery volcano!
45 Photos
Created 5 October 2012
This is the most southerly island in Vanuatu and our point of arrival. Beautiful gardens, dugout canoes and the spectacular Mystery island are shown in this album.
36 Photos
Created 5 October 2012
This is the great little island where we spent about a week in September, including our 29th anniversary.
30 Photos
Created 15 September 2012
Our son, Brian, and his girlfriend, Lindsay, visited us for a couple of weeks. We cruised the Yasawa Island Group and had an excellent time - village visits, hikes, diving, good music & great company!
87 Photos
Created 25 August 2012
This small island was simply stunning. A beautiful village, white sandy beaches, great hiking trails and crystal clear water. This island is not to be missed!
27 Photos
Created 4 August 2012
Ono Island is located in SW Fiji at the north end of Kadavu Island. It is surrounded by the Great Astrolabe Reef. The area has some great diving!
46 Photos
Created 4 August 2012
This series of photos guides you through the step by step process of spawning giant clams. We watched this in Makogai.
18 Photos
Created 4 August 2012
A fascinating place with sea turtles, giant clam breeding and the ruins of a huge leper colony.
33 Photos
Created 4 August 2012
Viani Bay is thye anchorage near to Rainbow Reef, one of Fiji's top dive spots. We did 4 dives here with Jack Fischer and got a few good photos.
13 Photos
Created 4 August 2012
This village was one of our favorites. The friendly people are originally from Tuvalu and have brought much of their culture with them - including dugout canoes and great weaving skills.
20 Photos
Created 4 August 2012
This unique island is NE of Taveuni. We visited Albert Cove and Katherine Bay.
34 Photos
Created 4 August 2012
A day spent with Suzy from s/v Sidewinder climbing up to the Tavoro Waterfalls and then hiking the Lavena Coastal Trail.
29 Photos
Created 13 July 2012
We really enjoyed Qamea Island. We anchored in Namata Bay and got to know the wonderful MItchell family. Meet some some of them in this album!
19 Photos
Created 13 July 2012
A few shots from our excursion to the north side including a high mountain plantation and very cool cathedral cave.
11 Photos
Created 13 July 2012
We anchored here for a few days and enjoyed exploring the many islands and hidden caves by kayak.
16 Photos
Created 13 July 2012
Our visit to the charming village of Daliconi near the Bay of Islands in the Northern Lau Group
16 Photos
Created 17 June 2012
One day we took the bus from Savusavu to Labasa on the opposite side of he island. It is a big town with a large Indo Fijiin population. The market is great and the bus ride is an adventure!
23 Photos
Created 12 June 2012
This album shows our arrival port of Savusavu and an excursions to the Cousteau Dive Resort.
37 Photos
Created 12 June 2012
Our excellent passage from New Zealand to Fiji including a stop at Minerva Reef - a circular atoll in the middle of the ocean!
31 Photos
Created 11 June 2012
A few shots of our excellent passage from Tonga to NZ with Kyle Russell aboard as crew.
29 Photos
Created 31 October 2011
We visited the villages of Matamaka and Nuapapu where we went to church, had lunch with the locals and then the next day visited a school. Lots of fun and some great images!
38 Photos
Created 29 September 2011
Even more shots of this great cruising area!
26 Photos
Created 29 September 2011
More of the same great sights and experiences!
36 Photos
Created 28 September 2011
We have so many great photos of Vava'u they are divided into a few albums. This is the first. People, boats, spectacular anchorages and unexpected sights - such as grave quilts!
36 Photos
Created 28 September 2011
Photos of the awesome underwater world of Vava'u including caves, coral, fish and some other creatures.
20 Photos
Created 28 September 2011
A beutiful atoll with a population of only 3 permanent residents awaits those who brave the narrow pass into the lagoon.
25 Photos
Created 5 August 2011
Bora Bora has lived up to its mythical reputation - a towering green volcanic peak surounded by motu islands and a beautiful blue lagoon!
21 Photos
Created 28 June 2011
We had a short visit to these islans but it was long enough to enjoy a visit to the luxurious Le Tahaa Resort. Wow!
24 Photos
Created 28 June 2011
We came to this small gem after an overnight passage from Moorea. Baie D'Avea was one our favorite anchorages so far, made better by very calm conditions!
43 Photos
Created 28 June 2011
This is where freinds Bob & janey joined us. Spectacular bays with towering volcanic spires were the highlight of this paradise.
39 Photos
Created 28 June 2011
The exotic island of Tahiti where we celebrated Norm's birthday. Pics include the Papeete market, super yachts and sunsets over Moorea!
27 Photos
Created 28 June 2011
This tiny anchorage is located on the outside of the atoll so there is no need to deal with passes or current predictions.
9 Photos
Created 28 June 2011
Crystal clear water, sharks around our boat, spectacular lagoons and a funky bar overlooking the pass made this one of our favorite stops!
30 Photos
Created 25 June 2011
This album includes shots of the main village, scuba diving, arrival of the traditional Vaka boats and, of course, our daughter, Amanda, who joined us for some fun times!
29 Photos
Created 25 June 2011
This was our first atoll in the Tuomotus Group. Crystal clear water, beautiful motus and quiet isolation made this stop very special.
35 Photos
Created 10 June 2011
Towering cliffs, a rugged hike, huge wterfall and the site of a Survivor TV series - Daniel's Bay has lots to see and experience!
29 Photos
Created 3 June 2011
Wow - what a great island! Excellent harbour, waterfalls, pine forests and high ranch country. Come inside the album and see!
33 Photos
Created 3 June 2011
We visited Hapatoni Bay, famous for artisans, especially carvers. We also visited Hana Moe Noa Bay and Ivaiva Bay where the beaches were white sand and the water crystal clear!
24 Photos
Created 27 April 2011
Fatu Hiva is probably the most spectacular island in the Marquesas Group. Photos include the Bay of Virgins, mountain hikes and a traditional pig roast dinner.
61 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
Created 27 April 2011
This was our first landfall in the Marquesas. Photos include the anchorage at Taahuku Bay and village of Atuona, along with an inland road trip across island to Puamau Bay.
84 Photos
Created 27 April 2011
We had a wonderful 19 day passage from La Cruz, Mexico to Hiva Oa in the Marquesas Group of French Polynesia. Photos include everything from laundry day to our equator crossing.
64 Photos
Created 27 April 2011
We spent a couple of weeks in February exploring the Gold Coast from Puerto Vallarta south to Manzanillo.
47 Photos
Created 16 February 2011
A few shots of the great marina at La Cruz and our explorations around the Puerto Vallarta area.
17 Photos
Created 16 February 2011
We took a panga trip up the Rio Tovara near San Blas. This is a mangrove jungle area with many birds, iguanas, turtles and even crocodiles.
18 Photos
Created 22 January 2011
This magic island is a breeding area for many species of birds including frigates and blue footed boobies. The birds have no fear of people - allowing very close encounters and amazing photos!
38 Photos
Created 22 January 2011
A collection of random photos taken at Marina El Cid and Old Mazatlan. We enjoyed the city, especially the many art studios and galleries.
38 Photos
Created 12 January 2011
A great family Christmas together sailing in the Sea of Cortez from Puerto Escondito to La Paz. Hikes, snorkeling, sea lions, wake boarding, beach cattle and more . . .
112 Photos
Created 2 January 2011
This is the bay and fishing village where we holed up during a big norther.
18 Photos
Created 9 December 2010
This wonderful cruising area is located just north of La Paz. Red cliffs, crystal clear water and white sandy beaches abound!
34 Photos
Created 9 December 2010
We spent about a week in this wonderful Mexican city. It is laid back with no visile tourist industry except for the yachties like us. We liked this place!
16 Photos
Created 9 December 2010
This is a wonderful anchorage on the Baja Cape between Cabo and La Paz. We spent a couple of days here snorkeling, hiking and enjoying the beach.
12 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
Created 15 November 2010
A visit to the town of Two Harbors, including a great hike, followed by a visit to the bigger town of Avalon.
24 Photos
Created 14 November 2010
We anchored in Pelican Bay and did a great hike along the bluffs to Prisoners Bay. Vistas and some wildlife incliding an island fox!
31 Photos
Created 13 October 2010
Beautiful beaches, elephant seals, sand dunes and great hiking - San Miguel has it all!
29 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
Created 13 October 2010
A few shots around the marina while we were waiting out a big blow.
9 Photos
Created 13 October 2010
A few photos a day at anchor in San Simeon including kayaking in the bay and views of the Hearst Castle verlooking the ocean.
12 Photos
Created 1 October 2010
Shots of Monterey, the famous aquairium and a bike ride along the 17 Mile Drive to Carmel.
46 Photos
Created 28 September 2010
Photos of Santa Cruz Marina and a bike ride to the boardwalk, pier and surfer museum. We then road to the cute village of Capitola a few miles south of Santa Cruz.
17 Photos
Created 28 September 2010
1 Photo | 7 Sub-Albums
Created 24 September 2010
Angel Island is located in the middle of San Francisco Bay. We spent the day exploring it on our folding bikes. Awesome views in all directions!
16 Photos
Created 19 September 2010
Passage from Cictora to San Francisco. Departure on Sept 6. Arrival on Sept 11. Crew were Kris & Ryan. Great first passage for Sarah Jean II.
43 Photos
Created 15 September 2010
A few photos of our boat.
2 Photos
Created 2 August 2010