Photo shows Pangaimotu, Nuku'alofa's best known yacht anchorage where Big Mama runs a rather ramshackle resort.

We are about to leave the Tongatapu lagoon for the Ha'apais and then Vava'u. In fact, we would have done so already if the wind hadn't freshened from the east. The Tongan chain tends north north east, so the more southerly the wind the better the angle and the more comfortable the sail.

We have been alternating between the anchorage off Pangaimotu Island (Big Mama's) and the town and have spent the last couple of days further north in the lagoon bouncing around off Fafa island and exploring the clear, but windy northern island of Malinoa. All the smaller islands around Tongatapu are motu - vegetated, flat coral islands. The pattern is repeated further north in the Ha'apai, although the western islands in that group are mountainous, volcanic islands. Only last year, a new island appeared from the surface of the sea. It's done that before and then disappeared again.

We've been snorkelling on a patch reef not far from the port called Mounu, although to be honest the water has been quite cool, cool enough to need a wetsuit. The reef was surprisingly intact, with good coral diversity and plenty of smaller fish species, including anemone fish with their host anemones.

Nuku'alofa has been celebrating the Heilala Festival, an annual event that sort of coincides with the Tongan King's birthday, although he's buggered off to Vava'u this time around. There were a lot of activities that we didn't go and watch, but we did turn up for the Heilala Parade.

This was a Tongan version of "Carnival". It might not have been quite so elaborate or political, but it did show off Tongans exuberance and love of a good time. By the time the parade got started, half of Tongapu was on the sidelines, with the other half taking part in the Parade.



Saraoni anchored off Big Mama's resort on Pangaimotu Island



Approaching the little motu of Malinoa in the far north of Tongatapu's lagoon



Coral in surprisingly good health close to town on Mounu Reef



A black crinoid clings to the reef edge accompanied by an inquisitive damsel fish



Many high schools and colleges in Tonga have their own (male) marching bands complete with very good brass instruments.




The Heilala Parade is a mixture of old and new Tonga