Lin...................


On the 6th February we weighed anchor at 6.30am heading for Antigua via Dominica and Guadeloupe. By 8.00 we were clearing Martinique and shortly afterwards hit a big swell and strong winds - there was no turning back we had a plane to catch!!

For the next five hours the seas were uncomfortable but 'Sareda' coped well and by 1.00pm we were in the lee of Dominica and there was little wind. As we sailed up the west coast we marvelled at how green and mountainous Dominica was. Quoting from Doyle's 2004/05 cruising guide Christopher Columbus when attempting to describe the awe inspiring mountains of Dominica to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Spain had to resort to crumpling up a sheet of paper to illustrate the dramatic form of the land, with its valleys, gorges and pinnacles. This gives and idea of its topography but cannot describe the amazingly lush vegetation. However, we knew our time was limited and we had to make headway, so continued sailing to the north of the island and at 5.30pm dropped anchor in Portsmouth Bay.

This beach is reputed to be the prettiest in Dominica. From the anchorage we could see the palms and flowering trees edging the sand and we have been told there are many birds including hummingbirds amongst them. Anchoring is not allowed to the South West of the bay, as this is full of coral and apparently makes excellent snorkelling - alas we could only anchor overnight and weighed anchor again at dawn to continue our passage to Antigua.

By 8.00am we were clear of Dominica, the seas were not so uncomfortable as the day before and by 11.00am we were in the lee of the French island of Guadeloupe - we again sailed to the north of the island. At 4.15pm we anchored in Deshaies (pronounced Day-Hay) and as we had made good time with only one more leg to go, we decided to spend two days here.

The next morning we went ashore to this beautiful fishing village. Many restaurants, cafes and small bars edged the beach to the left of the fishing harbour and it was with great delight that we discovered that one restaurant 'Le Mouillage' included a four course vegetarian menu which featured tofu steaks as the main course. It was really beyond our budget but we felt we deserved a treat and the cost was in reality, minimal- no more than a light lunch in the UK.

We soaked up the pleasures of our evening ashore and the following morning went ashore early to sip coffee and eat croissants straight from the oven at 'Amandine' boulangerie/patisserie, whilst watching the locals and tourists alike pass us by.

In the afternoon we decided to explore the Deshaies River which Doyle describes as a cool, shady walk winding upwards into the mountains culminating in a cave-like gulley with a waterfall at the back of it. It sounded idyllic so we set off. Unfortunately, after only a short time, the rain decided to fall on us - we soldiered on hoping it would stop, but finally drenched to the skin though still warm we turned back towards the village where the sun welcomed us with a smile!!

We liked Deshaies and will return again but on the 9th February weighed anchor at dawn for Antigua.

We again had an uncomfortable passage with rough seas and strong winds but it was uneventful until our arrival at English Harbour. We came out of turbulent seas straight into the entrance of the harbour. We attempted to start the engine but it unusually refused to start - had I pushed the engine stop in fully the last time I switched off!! Finally we succeeded.

I took the helm whilst Paul tried to furl the jib, which didn't want to furl! - on hindsight I believe this was due to the starboard sheet, having caught around the port cleat in the winds. Eventually it freed and we made our way forward into the harbour - we headed for the inner harbour, amongst the mangroves, where, we had been told by Geoff from 'Siesta' would be an ideal place to anchor whilst we returned to the UK.

As we approached a good anchoring spot the engine stopped dead - we quickly dropped anchor but the anchor winch jammed - it too freed within a short time and finally we were safely anchored.

It was then we realised that the jib sheet had, during our earlier difficulties, fallen overboard, due probably to my failing to tie a figure of eight in the end when we reversed the jib sheets, to even wear and tear, in Guadeloupe. Unfortunately, we then realised that it had caught around the prop and this was the reason for the engine failing.

I was mortified as I felt all the entry problems were probably of my making. However, the captain insisted on taking the blame as he said it was his responsibility to check everything was shipshape - I am sure this was only to make me feel better - what a wonderful partner!!

The next morning Paul dived to release the jib sheet from the prop but the water was so murky he couldn't really see what he was doing. After several attempts, where I was holding my breath with him as he went under the boat, he managed to cut free the majority but eventually we had to seek the assistance of a diver - he was there in no time and the charge was so minimal we wished we'd called him at the onset.

We arrived in English Harbour just past 4pm on the 9th February. We were due to fly out to the UK on the 13th and we therefore had three days to enjoy. Work began on the dockyard here in the 1720's and became Britain's main naval port in the Lesser Antilles. Nelson became naval commander in the 1780's and kept the port closed to all trade but British Ships. This did not endear him to Shirley, the Governor General at this time but never-the-less Antigua has not objected to the dockyard being known as Nelson's Dockyard.

By the 1940's it had become ruins, but in the late 1940's Nicholson's Charter Company was born and former commander Vernon Nicholson restored the ruins to their previous functional beauty.

It has since been taken over by the Antiguan National Parks Authority and houses many businesses including a bakery, sail makers, boutiques, a small coffee shop (selling delicious vegetable pasties, to go!) and many others. Nicholson Yachts now operate the oldest yacht charter service and are just outside Nelson's Dockyard on the road to Falmouth Harbour.

We found both Nelson's Dockyard and the walk between English and Falmouth Harbours delightful. The bright colours of the buildings holding the many cafes, restaurants and other small businesses were eye dazzling.

We found a cool and comfortable little caf� on the road where we could have a cup of coffee and use their WIFI. It had many colourful shrubs and trees in the small courtyard and it was here I saw my first humming bird. I have now seen a few, but that first sighting was magical, and for me seeing the flora and fauna in its natural habitat, instead of in books or on film makes our voyaging extra special.

We spent a day on the beach at the little bay just inside English Harbour - the water was warm but refreshing and we enjoyed just relaxing - something we still do less of than we had imagined we would. In the evening we went ashore to listen to a local band at a dockside restaurant/bar. It still seems strange taking the dinghy up to the bar and tying alongside before sitting at a table.

There are times when it is a pleasure to just sit and enjoy music as I did that night. Poor Paul was able to tell that two of the musicians were quite good, two mediocre and two downright awful - I enjoyed it all and I am afraid I had to tell him to be quiet so I could listen with pleasure.


Home to the UK for the wedding via New York

On the 13th February we made our way to the airport to fly home for the wedding. We decided to bus to St Johns and taxi from there to the airport. We were the only ones on the bus at Nelson's Dockyard but as we moved through the small villages more and more got on and off. Fold down seats materialised from nowhere and no one was turned away. People didn't pay their fare until they left the bus - I wonder if that would work in the UK.

We enjoyed our bus ride and everyone was very pleasant although by the time we arrived at St Johns the bus was full to overflowing and we were the only white faces on board!

Our cheaper flight from Antigua involved a two-hour wait at Newark, New Jersey, USA for our flight to Gatwick. We were over an hour late leaving Antigua and upon arrival at Newark we were circling for nearly 45 minutes as the weather conditions were snowy and there was a queue. At touch down we raced along knowing we only had about 15 minutes before our connection left.

Someone in baggage rang through to hold our flight and told them we only had to wait for our luggage and he would rush us up. Luggage always seems to take ages anyway, but when they announced the hold door was frozen over we knew our luck was out and sure enough we missed the connection - however it was not all bad.

They took us down to re-book our flight 24 hours later. The airline paid for our hotel and gave us vouchers for all meals, and so the next morning after a big breakfast we caught the train into New York (1/2 hour)

As it was Valentine's day Paul assured me he had arranged it as my valentine's gift, but in actual fact we couldn't believe our luck, neither of us had been to New York before and we thoroughly enjoyed our day. We alighted the train at Madison Square Gardens and Paul immediately spotted the Empire State Building - we had to go up!!

Construction on this magnificent landmark began in February 1930 and was completed in one year and 45 days - a completion of 4 � stories per week, employing 4,000 men per day. The estimated total cost was 50 million dollars, including the land - the actual final cost was 41 million dollars - if only ventures today ended up below their original budget.

We went up to the 86th floor and although we couldn't visit the whole of New York due to our time constraints we certainly saw it all from George Washington Bridge which joins New York and New Jersey in the North to the majestic span of the Verrazano - Narrows Bridge joining Brooklyn and Staten Island in the South, and from the Borough of Queens in the East to Pennsylvania's Pocono Mountains in the West.

I would love to have visited the Statue of Liberty but at least I saw her whilst looking South towards Upper New York Bay where she stands in majesty.

After our descent - in mind and body - we wended our way to Times Square and after a quick look around returned to Madison Square Gardens rail station for our train back to Newark Airport. We were a little early but we couldn't miss the flight this time - it would have been our fault!!

We arrived back in Devon by mid afternoon on the 15th February. We had a very busy week both in work and social issues culminating at the end of the week in the wedding.

It was an excellent registry office service in Newton Abbot on the Thursday followed by the Church blessing on the Friday. On both occasions Michelle looked beautiful.

Everything was superb, the horse and carriage, the string quartet and choir in the church followed by the wedding breakfast and the fantastic band in the evening. Everyone, without a doubt, enjoyed every minute.

Of course, many of you were there either for the whole day or just for the evening, but for those of you who were not and are interested, we have put some of our favourite personal photos on the blog and the professional photographs can be viewed at www.picshore.co.uk - username "michellemartin" password "220208"


Back to Antigua to sail down to Saint Lucia to welcome two of our children + a new husband!!
On Sunday 26th February we returned the car to our garage and Lucy and Bethan gave us a lift to the train station, last minute business forms and letters were completed at the airport and by Monday afternoon we were again on 'Sareda' in Antigua. We were pleased to find her as we had left her, safely at anchor in the mangroves.

One of the first things we did on our return was to re-anchor in the bay at the entrance to English Harbour where we had spent time on the beach before we left. As soon as we had anchored we spotted 'Siesta'. Geoff had been around for some weeks - his girlfriend Nicki had flown out to join him for a holiday and the end of her three-week stay was nearly over.

They were meeting friends that night and we were soon to be moving South down the island chain again on our passage back to St Lucia where Michelle and Martin were spending the second week of their honeymoon. Therefore, Geoff and Nicki came over for a drink in the early evening before they met their friends. It was nice to catch up on our different experiences since we last saw Geoff in the Cape Verdes.

Unfortunately, most of our time whilst in Antigua was spent in the WIFI caf� trying to sort out a problem relating to Paul's business. Paul eventually realised he would have to return to the UK again, the timing couldn't have been more inappropriate. We were about to head South to meet Michelle and Martin, we had also heard from Lucy that she and Bethan would be flying out on the Tuesday of that week as it was a lot cheaper that coming later in the month and we had only just returned from the UK a few days earlier!!

Early on the 29th we weighed anchor for the first leg of our passage to St Lucia. We had to pass the same islands as on our passage north as St Lucia was just South of Martinique.

Originally we knew that Michelle and Martin would be in their hotel and a day or two was neither here nor there, but Lucy and Bethan were sleeping on the boat and were arriving on the 4th March so we had to keep moving on.

We decided to stop at each island overnight as before but this time we wouldn't be tempted to go ashore. The first night saw us at Deshaies, Guadeloupe, again after a passage of rough seas and strong winds. The following night we stopped at Portsmouth harbour, Dominica, and who should be anchored very near us but Will on 'Shandoo'. Although we were tired we invited him over for a cup of tea as we hadn't seen him since Lanzarote.

Although we weren't going ashore this time, Will was telling us that when we go back next year the local market starts at midnight on a Friday and if you want eggs that is the time you have to be there. Dominica is a very poor island compared with some of its neighbours but as we noticed on the way up, very beautiful. We can't wait to go back next season.

The next morning we headed for Martinique, the sea state was good and we maintained an average of 6.4 knots and arrived in St Pierre in good time.

The next day took us to Rodney Bay in St Lucia and as we drew near we received a text from Michelle to say they were waiting for us. We were able to anchor just in front of their hotel and as we dropped the anchor they drew up on the back of a jet ski to meet us, it was a very exciting moment.

The new Mr & Mrs Farley had booked a table for the evening for us to dine with them. We were able to 'borrow' their hotel room and have a hot shower, such a luxury!!

We joined them in the sumptuous lounge and shortly afterwards went through to the restaurant to eat. We had an enjoyable meal then convened in the lounge again to watch the entertainment. It was a riveting performance. The male and mostly female dancers were so co-ordinated it was a joy to watch and they also had a fire eating routine, which went down well!! (Excuse the pun) After a fantastic evening with enjoyable company we returned to 'Sareda' tired but happy.

The following day we hired a car and drove down to the other end of the island to meet Lucy at Hewanorra airport. The scenery on route was breathtaking and we went the quickest way down the East side of the island, the other route down the West side takes another hour and is up and down the mountains and is renowned for its beauty.

The girls arrived on time. Bethan had been very good during the journey apart from a 15 minute period at Gatwick airport. By the time they arrived she had been awake for 16 hours and was still cheerful - although we fully expected her to sleep on the car ride back to Rodney Bay - another 1 � hours. She stayed awake however, and ate a small dinner before going to sleep in her bunk.

The next few days were a round of beach, eating out at lunchtime and an evening ashore with Michelle and Martin at the hotel. Michelle and Martin went on some wonderful trips, including whale and dolphin watching, trips into the rain forest and a chocolate factory.

On the Thursday Martin, Michelle, Bethan, Lucy, Paul and I sailed down to Marigot Bay further down the west coast. It was a beautiful bay and was where Dr Doolittle was filmed.

When we arrived a young fellow who was selling turtle ornaments met the boat in his own craft. Michelle and Martin bought a turtle - Lucy bought one later from another vendor ashore. This beautiful bay was very luxurious and unfortunately rather expensive. Until that point we thought that it would be a good place to leave me with the boat whilst Paul returned to the UK as it was very sheltered. However, I would have been very isolated as there was only one way out to the main road by taxi and that would make the cost prohibitive.

The sail back was rather boisterous and was generally enjoyed - but Bethan wanted to go into the fo'csle and read with Grandma and unfortunately the motion there gave her a queasy tummy but we went back on deck and it was soon forgotten when we returned to Rodney Bay.

We were sad that Paul had to leave so soon, he was hoping to be able to stay with us and maybe catch the same plane back as Lucy and Bethan, but it was apparent by then that due to business problems his departure could not be delayed that long and he booked a flight back the week before Lucy and Bethan left.

Michelle and Martin finished their honeymoon in style - After spending the morning at the Pigeon Island National Park they arranged to take the helicopter from Vigie Airport at Castries to Hewanorra Airport at the far South. We were on the beach again that day so they joined us for a last minute swim before leaving for Castries.

The day afterwards, Sunday, we weighed anchor and moved to the other end of the bay in the shelter of Pigeon Island, which is no longer an island as it has been joined to the mainland by a causeway, using the soil excavated when building the harbour.

On Pigeon Island is a restaurant/bar called Jambe de Bois, we had read about in our cruising guide that is owned by a lady from the UK who also does all she can to help the animals on the island.

On Sunday evenings they hold live jazz sessions so we went ashore and thoroughly enjoyed our evening.

Sadly, on the Tuesday Paul had to leave us. This confused Bethan a lot. Even after we had taken him to the airport it obviously hadn't registered where he was going and when we returned to the boat she expected to see him there. It subdued her considerably over the next few days and we had to keep cheering her up by saying she would see him the next week when she returned to the UK.

We considered it sensible to bring Sareda into the harbour where I could easily reach all amenities in the dinghy. It was not so pleasant as anchoring off the beach but was very convenient. This time I drove the hire car to the airport and after saying goodbye to Paul we decided we would return via the West Coast.

Some inland adventuring!!

The mountainous scenery was spectacular. The steep roads and hairpin bends awesome and not a little frightening, but we were entranced. As we neared Soufriere the home of the Pitons - we saw a road sign indicating the drive in volcano and sulphur springs.

The entrance fee was minimal and we drove in and parked the car within the centre of the volcano. A guide met us and took us to a viewing point where we were able to watch the sulphur bubbling in the craters as a thick chocolate sauce might bubble in the pan. Unfortunately, the smell wasn't so pleasant, reminiscent of rotten eggs!!

Afterwards we were told we could bathe in the hot spring that has resulted from a stream running through the volcano and being warmed by the hot sulphurous mineral. We were told it was very beneficial to health.

Lucy had her bathing gear with her and took advantage of it and Bethan was able to join her in her birthday suit. I dipped my feet in and it was a pleasurable experience, the water being hotter than I would normally have in my bath.

We then wend our way back to Rodney Bay and as we had the car decided to drive over to Pigeon Island and the Jambe de Bois restaurant/ bar that we had enjoyed so much when we were with Paul on Sunday evening.

The live Jazz only happens on Sundays but Jazz is played as background music and we enjoyed a very cheap and enjoyable meal. I had a vegetable roti that cost less than �2. Unfortunately, Bethan fell asleep after eating and missed the small mouse that peeked out from the corner of the bar behind our table. Lucy and I kept quiet about it, we didn't want to be responsible for mouse traps being set!!

We returned there a few nights later when we had a car again but unfortunately the mouse was elusive, he had added to the atmosphere and we missed his presence.

We were keen to show Bethan dolphins and whales in their natural habitat and as we couldn't go sailing and try to find them for ourselves we booked to go whale and dolphin watching with a company that had a 80 per cent success rate in finding them.

The tour ran from Castries a little further down the coast and we had to be there by 8.00am in the morning. As a taxi would have cost almost as much as a hire car we hired a car from lunchtime the day before and decided to drive to the east coast where, we were told, turtles could be seen on the beach.

After following the map to the approximate area we found the turtle watch signs and followed them. We were a bit dubious when the signs took us off the road and down a very rough track - the sea still appeared to be a long way off!! After driving a good mile, maybe more, it is hard to tell when driving at 2 kilometres an hour, we decided that it would be foolhardy to drive any further. The track was becoming more and more rutted and uneven!!

We had already passed one car parked at the side of the track and decided to turn around and park behind it. As I attempted to turn the wheels decided to spin and in the end I had to reverse back up the track with Lucy walking beside the car guiding me away from the deepest ruts.

We parked up and decided we would sort out the problem of turning when we had been to the beach as we decided we would walk the rest of the way. After twenty or so minutes negotiated the track on foot with a two year old who didn't want to walk we were seriously thinking of abandoning the whole idea - it just seemed such a shame after getting so near.

As we were discussing this we heard an engine and saw a truck coming very slowly down the track. As it was passing we asked the driver how much further it was to the beach, he said it was still quite a long way but that we were welcome to jump in the cab.We hesitated momentarily and then decided to take him up on his offer.

He told us he had two daughters, one nine and one ten months old. We asked about the property on the island as we had passed both luxury houses and small shacks on our journey.

He informed us that the owners of the luxury houses were generally the managers and owners of various businesses and required planning permission to be built. The wooden homes, did not require planning permission and were generally built by the workers themselves.

He had built himself and his family a two bedroomed home that was fine for them at this time but he said that when he had saved up some more money he would build on at a later date. When we were within a couple of hundred yards of the beach two other workers came out of the bushes - they were cutting the turfs that were to be loaded onto the truck and taken to the hotel for whom they were working.

We felt slightly intimidated as they approached the truck with their machettes, but they seemed very friendly and our driver said that after they had loaded up the truck we were very welcome to have a lift back to the car, he even offered to come down to the beach and pick us up.

By this time he had told us that the turtles only came to the beach at night to lay their eggs and so our journey had really been unnecessary!! We did not stay on the beach long and when we returned to where they were they had just finished loading the truck - we were amazed at the speed in which they had achieved this and said so!

One of the three then went into the bushes and climbed a palm tree cutting down about 6/8 coconuts. He brought them back in a sack and proceeded to cut off the surrounding flesh with his machette and chipped into the husk creating a hole for us to drink the cool and refreshing coconut water.

After we had finished the water he then cut the nuts open and extracted the soft delicious flesh from within. This bears no comparison to the rather dry flesh that is extracted from the coconuts we buy in the UK and we all enjoyed it immensely.

Then another three coconuts were prepared and given to us to have after our meal that evening.

We could not get over just how friendly, helpful and pleasant these men were. They then gave us a lift back to our car and our driver kindly offered to turn it around for me as I had already explained my difficulty earlier.

We felt really humbled and were most ashamed of ourselves for doubting their integrity earlier - Lucy was mortified that she had harboured doubts.
We gave them $25 EC that amounted to approximately �5 - not only did they not ask or expect payment but they were obviously very appreciative of what we thought was only a small gesture and we took another photograph of them driving away on their truck.

The following morning we drove down to Castries for the whale and dolphin watch. Once we had moved out of the lee of the land we went forward to the bow our eyes peeled for signs of marine life. After approx � hour the boat gained speed and headed for a specific point where another boat from the same company was hovering.

As we drew nearer we could see the pilot whales in the water - there must have been between fifty and sixty of them spread over a small area. From my experience of sighting marine creatures with Paul they generally move fairly rapidly, especially the dolphins that tend to play around the boat jumping in unison appearing to show off, but I am sure this is just their usual play. However the pilot whales were fairly docile and just swam lazily around giving us plenty of time to see them.

We had already passed a few dolphins en route to the whales but they were not very near and unfortunately Bethan hadn't seen them, they were so quick. However, on our way back we were joined by a school of dolphins that frolicked around the boat and from our bow position we were able to look down into the water and see them swimming right underneath us. Bethan was fascinated; hopefully it will remain one of her early childhood memories.

The day before Lucy and Bethan returned to the UK we again hired a car - we had to have one for the following day to take her to the airport so we made it two days. We travelled down the west coast of the island again and headed for Soufriere by the Pitons again. When we arrived we were looking for the waterfall and botanical gardens. Someone saw us hesitating on which way to go and asked us what we were looking for - he then ran ahead of the car and told us to follow him until we were on the right road. He did ask for a donation of $10 EC (approx �2) but it was worth it.

The botanical gardens were beautiful but unfortunately there was strictly no bathing allowed in the pool beneath the waterfall although they had man made small pools that had health giving properties and were very warm. We enjoyed our time there very much.

We then moved out of Soufriere and turned off the main road towards another waterfall. On our way there we found the workshop that produced masks, totem type poles and other wooden carvings, mainly fish. They sold these in Rodney Bay and earlier in the week Lucy had been tempted to buy a mask. There was a far greater selection here and she found one she really liked - I was tempted by a colourful fish that I thought would look nice on the boat, it still had to be varnished but as it only takes a very short time to dry he said he would finish it by the time we returned from the waterfall - I have a photo of him working on it which I shall put in the gallery.

We continued on to the other waterfalls, one hot and one cold. I couldn't be bothered to change into swimming gear again but Lucy and Bethan enjoyed it.

The following day they left for home. I found it very sad and miss them terribly!!

I was now on my own. I had several jobs to do on the boat that kept me occupied and I met some very pleasant people. I had troubles changing my gas cylinder - my strength isn't good when connecting the regulator and Paul said we probably needed a new one in any event.

Luckily the gas is in a sealed locker in the cockpit so there is no danger, which is fortunate really as it emptied within two days. This was repeated again and I had almost decided to live on salads and cold drinks until Paul returned but a lovely couple who had been sailing for 16 years, Brian and Jane took pity on me and invited me over for a meal the first night. Brian had been brought up in India and cooked a fantastic dahl that I very much enjoyed.

The next day he came over to Sareda and connected another new cylinder for me that thankfully is still going strong.

On the Thursday after Lucy left my sister-in-law Jenny arrived on a cruise ship for the day. She was booked on a trip in the morning but I therefore caught a bus, very cheap and reliable to meet her in the afternoon. We found a caf� in the marketplace for coffee. I hope she and her friend enjoyed it - I tend to go to venues frequented by the locals as I enjoy experiencing the local culture. I did enjoy meeting them as it broke up my time alone.

Everything seemed to work well for me because during that week I also heard that my friend Sheilagh from Nottingham was arriving on a cruise ship on the Sunday with her son Ceiran. Unlike Jenny she had no trips booked for her time in St Lucia. Her sister Maureen paid for me to hire a car for the day to take them around the island - as part of an early 60th birthday present for Sheilagh.

I picked them up from the cruise ship in Castries. It was lovely to see them and we wend our way down the west side of the island towards Soufriere. When we reached Anse de Raye we saw a sign to a waterfall. As I had not been there before we decided to give it a try. The road soon deteriorated into a track but we persevered - it was not nearly so bad as the track I had encountered with Lucy when we headed for the Turtle Watch!!

After a short while a sign pointed down a pathway and we parked the car and walked the rest of the way. There was a small charge to enter but it was really nice when we arrived. The waterfall was obviously man-made, although it was aesthetically pleasing with the water flowing down stone steps into a fresh water pool that was large enough to swim in.

We quickly changed and took the plunge. It was delightfully cool and refreshing and we enjoyed approximately � hour on our own before two minibuses arrived from the two cruise ships.

Everyone enjoyed it but we were pleased we had arrived earlier and had it to ourselves for a while. There was a small lizard sat on the changing room roof and unlike some did not run away before we could photograph it. We also found a pineapple bush - I had always assumed pineapples grew on trees but actually they grow out of bushes that look like a large version of the green outgrowth that you find on the pineapple - a picture will be in the gallery.

I then took them to the sulphur springs which they enjoyed, unfortunately the botanical gardens were closed.

After having coffee at a little restaurant/bar overlooking the harbour at Soufriere we made our way back to Castries and the cruise ship. The scenery on this coast is awesome with its lush vegetation and mountainous landscape.

On the way back I had trouble with the gearbox on the very steep hills, it was the first time I had negotiated them with a manual gearbox. I was beginning to get panicky as the cruise ship was setting sail at six and Sheilagh and Ceiran had to return by 5.30pm.Eventually, having to change to first gear on many occasions I coped well and Sheilagh and Ceiran managed to board the ship before it sailed. Phew!!

I was on my own now busy trying to get various jobs on the boat completed before Paul returned but did spend some time with a fellow called Gerry. He had come across to St Lucia with the ARC (Atlantic Rally Crossing) with two members of crew that had since returned to the UK. He had also returned for two months - the cruising life had got to him so he returned to sell his home and business to continue the cruising life indefinitely.

One day we walked along the road to the beach and stopped for a drink at the yacht club followed by a meal at Spinnakers on the beach. He was easy to get along with and I asked him whether he would be prepared to risk eating with me the night before Paul returned as I had purchased a Rastafarian Vegetarian cookbook and wanted to experiment with it. He gratefully accepted, apparently he doesn't enjoy his own cooking to any great degree and generally ate out.

I made a vegetarian balti, using all the spices individually (no curry powder) after purchasing them and the vegetables at the market in Castries. I made enough for four and refrigerated half for Paul's return the following day.

Gerry said he enjoyed it very much, but I wasn't very sure, he would hardly say he disliked it would he!! However, the next day Paul also said it was very nice. I did tell him that I was glad he liked it but that it had taken me three hours to cook it and clear away so I presented him with the cookery book - he does enjoy cooking so much!!

Luckily Paul and Gerry get on well but they are inclined to gang up on me a bit, men versus girls, but my shoulders are broad.

On Saturday we met up with Joan and Barrow. Joan had holidayed in St Lucia for many years and then met up with her husband Barrow. She married him and has now been living here for thirteen years.

They took us to a local bar in Gros Islet a small village next to Rodney Bay. Barrow was born there and knew everybody but he advised us not to go to certain areas on our own. However, we had an enjoyable lunchtime being introduced to all the locals.

We are now anchored off Pigeon Island again and once more enjoyed the Jazz at Jambe de Bois last night and are at present using the WIFI facilities over coffee and a vegetable roti lunch. We are not sure when we are moving on but most probably we will not be here for much longer.





Lin...................

Martinique to Antigua via Dominica and Guadeloupe

On the 6th February we weighed anchor at 6.30am heading for Antigua via Dominica and Guadeloupe. By 8.00 we were clearing Martinique and shortly afterwards hit a big swell and strong winds - there was no turning back we had a plane to catch!!

For the next five hours the seas were uncomfortable but 'Sareda' coped well and by 1.00pm we were in the lee of Dominica and there was little wind. As we sailed up the west coast we marvelled at how green and mountainous Dominica was. Quoting from Doyle's 2004/05 cruising guide Christopher Columbus when attempting to describe the awe inspiring mountains of Dominica to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Spain had to resort to crumpling up a sheet of paper to illustrate the dramatic form of the land, with its valleys, gorges and pinnacles. This gives and idea of its topography but cannot describe the amazingly lush vegetation. However, we knew our time was limited and we had to make headway, so continued sailing to the north of the island and at 5.30pm dropped anchor in Portsmouth Bay.

This beach is reputed to be the prettiest in Dominica. From the anchorage we could see the palms and flowering trees edging the sand and we have been told there are many birds including hummingbirds amongst them. Anchoring is not allowed to the South West of the bay, as this is full of coral and apparently makes excellent snorkelling - alas we could only anchor overnight and weighed anchor again at dawn to continue our passage to Antigua.

By 8.00am we were clear of Dominica, the seas were not so uncomfortable as the day before and by 11.00am we were in the lee of the French island of Guadeloupe - we again sailed to the north of the island. At 4.15pm we anchored in Deshaies (pronounced Day-Hay) and as we had made good time with only one more leg to go, we decided to spend two days here.

The next morning we went ashore to this beautiful fishing village. Many restaurants, cafes and small bars edged the beach to the left of the fishing harbour and it was with great delight that we discovered that one restaurant 'Le Mouillage' included a four course vegetarian menu which featured tofu steaks as the main course. It was really beyond our budget but we felt we deserved a treat and the cost was in reality, minimal- no more than a light lunch in the UK.

We soaked up the pleasures of our evening ashore and the following morning went ashore early to sip coffee and eat croissants straight from the oven at 'Amandine' boulangerie/patisserie, whilst watching the locals and tourists alike pass us by.

In the afternoon we decided to explore the Deshaies River which Doyle describes as a cool, shady walk winding upwards into the mountains culminating in a cave-like gulley with a waterfall at the back of it. It sounded idyllic so we set off. Unfortunately, after only a short time, the rain decided to fall on us - we soldiered on hoping it would stop, but finally drenched to the skin though still warm we turned back towards the village where the sun welcomed us with a smile!!

We liked Deshaies and will return again but on the 9th February weighed anchor at dawn for Antigua.

We again had an uncomfortable passage with rough seas and strong winds but it was uneventful until our arrival at English Harbour. We came out of turbulent seas straight into the entrance of the harbour. We attempted to start the engine but it unusually refused to start - had I pushed the engine stop in fully the last time I switched off!! Finally we succeeded.

I took the helm whilst Paul tried to furl the jib, which didn't want to furl! - on hindsight I believe this was due to the starboard sheet, having caught around the port cleat in the winds. Eventually it freed and we made our way forward into the harbour - we headed for the inner harbour, amongst the mangroves, where, we had been told by Geoff from 'Siesta' would be an ideal place to anchor whilst we returned to the UK.

As we approached a good anchoring spot the engine stopped dead - we quickly dropped anchor but the anchor winch jammed - it too freed within a short time and finally we were safely anchored.

It was then we realised that the jib sheet had, during our earlier difficulties, fallen overboard, due probably to my failing to tie a figure of eight in the end when we reversed the jib sheets, to even wear and tear, in Guadeloupe. Unfortunately, we then realised that it had caught around the prop and this was the reason for the engine failing.

I was mortified as I felt all the entry problems were probably of my making. However, the captain insisted on taking the blame as he said it was his responsibility to check everything was shipshape - I am sure this was only to make me feel better - what a wonderful partner!!

The next morning Paul dived to release the jib sheet from the prop but the water was so murky he couldn't really see what he was doing. After several attempts, where I was holding my breath with him as he went under the boat, he managed to cut free the majority but eventually we had to seek the assistance of a diver - he was there in no time and the charge was so minimal we wished we'd called him at the onset.

We arrived in English Harbour just past 4pm on the 9th February. We were due to fly out to the UK on the 13th and we therefore had three days to enjoy. Work began on the dockyard here in the 1720's and became Britain's main naval port in the Lesser Antilles. Nelson became naval commander in the 1780's and kept the port closed to all trade but British Ships. This did not endear him to Shirley, the Governor General at this time but never-the-less Antigua has not objected to the dockyard being known as Nelson's Dockyard.

By the 1940's it had become ruins, but in the late 1940's Nicholson's Charter Company was born and former commander Vernon Nicholson restored the ruins to their previous functional beauty.

It has since been taken over by the Antiguan National Parks Authority and houses many businesses including a bakery, sail makers, boutiques, a small coffee shop (selling delicious vegetable pasties, to go!) and many others. Nicholson Yachts now operate the oldest yacht charter service and are just outside Nelson's Dockyard on the road to Falmouth Harbour.

We found both Nelson's Dockyard and the walk between English and Falmouth Harbours delightful. The bright colours of the buildings holding the many cafes, restaurants and other small businesses were eye dazzling.

We found a cool and comfortable little caf� on the road where we could have a cup of coffee and use their WIFI. It had many colourful shrubs and trees in the small courtyard and it was here I saw my first humming bird. I have now seen a few, but that first sighting was magical, and for me seeing the flora and fauna in its natural habitat, instead of in books or on film makes our voyaging extra special.

We spent a day on the beach at the little bay just inside English Harbour - the water was warm but refreshing and we enjoyed just relaxing - something we still do less of than we had imagined we would. In the evening we went ashore to listen to a local band at a dockside restaurant/bar. It still seems strange taking the dinghy up to the bar and tying alongside before sitting at a table.

There are times when it is a pleasure to just sit and enjoy music as I did that night. Poor Paul was able to tell that two of the musicians were quite good, two mediocre and two downright awful - I enjoyed it all and I am afraid I had to tell him to be quiet so I could listen with pleasure.


Home to the UK for the wedding via New York

On the 13th February we made our way to the airport to fly home for the wedding. We decided to bus to St Johns and taxi from there to the airport. We were the only ones on the bus at Nelson's Dockyard but as we moved through the small villages more and more got on and off. Fold down seats materialised from nowhere and no one was turned away. People didn't pay their fare until they left the bus - I wonder if that would work in the UK.

We enjoyed our bus ride and everyone was very pleasant although by the time we arrived at St Johns the bus was full to overflowing and we were the only white faces on board!

Our cheaper flight from Antigua involved a two-hour wait at Newark, New Jersey, USA for our flight to Gatwick. We were over an hour late leaving Antigua and upon arrival at Newark we were circling for nearly 45 minutes as the weather conditions were snowy and there was a queue. At touch down we raced along knowing we only had about 15 minutes before our connection left.

Someone in baggage rang through to hold our flight and told them we only had to wait for our luggage and he would rush us up. Luggage always seems to take ages anyway, but when they announced the hold door was frozen over we knew our luck was out and sure enough we missed the connection - however it was not all bad.

They took us down to re-book our flight 24 hours later. The airline paid for our hotel and gave us vouchers for all meals, and so the next morning after a big breakfast we caught the train into New York (1/2 hour)

As it was Valentine's day Paul assured me he had arranged it as my valentine's gift, but in actual fact we couldn't believe our luck, neither of us had been to New York before and we thoroughly enjoyed our day. We alighted the train at Madison Square Gardens and Paul immediately spotted the Empire State Building - we had to go up!!

Construction on this magnificent landmark began in February 1930 and was completed in one year and 45 days - a completion of 4 � stories per week, employing 4,000 men per day. The estimated total cost was 50 million dollars, including the land - the actual final cost was 41 million dollars - if only ventures today ended up below their original budget.

We went up to the 86th floor and although we couldn't visit the whole of New York due to our time constraints we certainly saw it all from George Washington Bridge which joins New York and New Jersey in the North to the majestic span of the Verrazano - Narrows Bridge joining Brooklyn and Staten Island in the South, and from the Borough of Queens in the East to Pennsylvania's Pocono Mountains in the West.

I would love to have visited the Statue of Liberty but at least I saw her whilst looking South towards Upper New York Bay where she stands in majesty.

After our descent - in mind and body - we wended our way to Times Square and after a quick look around returned to Madison Square Gardens rail station for our train back to Newark Airport. We were a little early but we couldn't miss the flight this time - it would have been our fault!!

We arrived back in Devon by mid afternoon on the 15th February. We had a very busy week both in work and social issues culminating at the end of the week in the wedding.

It was an excellent registry office service in Newton Abbot on the Thursday followed by the Church blessing on the Friday. On both occasions Michelle looked beautiful.

Everything was superb, the horse and carriage, the string quartet and choir in the church followed by the wedding breakfast and the fantastic band in the evening. Everyone, without a doubt, enjoyed every minute.

Of course, many of you were there either for the whole day or just for the evening, but for those of you who were not and are interested, we have put some of our favourite personal photos on the blog and the professional photographs can be viewed at www.picshore.co.uk - username "michellemartin" password "220208"


Back to Antigua to sail down to Saint Lucia to welcome two of our children + a new husband!!

On Sunday 26th February we returned the car to our garage and Lucy and Bethan gave us a lift to the train station, last minute business forms and letters were completed at the airport and by Monday afternoon we were again on 'Sareda' in Antigua. We were pleased to find her as we had left her, safely at anchor in the mangroves.

One of the first things we did on our return was to re-anchor in the bay at the entrance to English Harbour where we had spent time on the beach before we left. As soon as we had anchored we spotted 'Siesta'. Geoff had been around for some weeks - his girlfriend Nicki had flown out to join him for a holiday and the end of her three-week stay was nearly over.

They were meeting friends that night and we were soon to be moving South down the island chain again on our passage back to St Lucia where Michelle and Martin were spending the second week of their honeymoon. Therefore, Geoff and Nicki came over for a drink in the early evening before they met their friends. It was nice to catch up on our different experiences since we last saw Geoff in the Cape Verdes.

Unfortunately, most of our time whilst in Antigua was spent in the WIFI caf� trying to sort out a problem relating to Paul's business. Paul eventually realised he would have to return to the UK again, the timing couldn't have been more inappropriate. We were about to head South to meet Michelle and Martin, we had also heard from Lucy that she and Bethan would be flying out on the Tuesday of that week as it was a lot cheaper that coming later in the month and we had only just returned from the UK a few days earlier!!

Early on the 29th we weighed anchor for the first leg of our passage to St Lucia. We had to pass the same islands as on our passage north as St Lucia was just South of Martinique.

Originally we knew that Michelle and Martin would be in their hotel and a day or two was neither here nor there, but Lucy and Bethan were sleeping on the boat and were arriving on the 4th March so we had to keep moving on.

We decided to stop at each island overnight as before but this time we wouldn't be tempted to go ashore. The first night saw us at Deshaies, Guadeloupe, again after a passage of rough seas and strong winds. The following night we stopped at Portsmouth harbour, Dominica, and who should be anchored very near us but Will on 'Shandoo'. Although we were tired we invited him over for a cup of tea as we hadn't seen him since Lanzarote.

Although we weren't going ashore this time, Will was telling us that when we go back next year the local market starts at midnight on a Friday and if you want eggs that is the time you have to be there. Dominica is a very poor island compared with some of its neighbours but as we noticed on the way up, very beautiful. We can't wait to go back next season.

The next morning we headed for Martinique, the sea state was good and we maintained an average of 6.4 knots and arrived in St Pierre in good time.

The next day took us to Rodney Bay in St Lucia and as we drew near we received a text from Michelle to say they were waiting for us. We were able to anchor just in front of their hotel and as we dropped the anchor they drew up on the back of a jet ski to meet us, it was a very exciting moment.

The new Mr & Mrs Farley had booked a table for the evening for us to dine with them. We were able to 'borrow' their hotel room and have a hot shower, such a luxury!!

We joined them in the sumptuous lounge and shortly afterwards went through to the restaurant to eat. We had an enjoyable meal then convened in the lounge again to watch the entertainment. It was a riveting performance. The male and mostly female dancers were so co-ordinated it was a joy to watch and they also had a fire eating routine, which went down well!! (Excuse the pun) After a fantastic evening with enjoyable company we returned to 'Sareda' tired but happy.

The following day we hired a car and drove down to the other end of the island to meet Lucy at Hewanorra airport. The scenery on route was breathtaking and we went the quickest way down the East side of the island, the other route down the West side takes another hour and is up and down the mountains and is renowned for its beauty.

The girls arrived on time. Bethan had been very good during the journey apart from a 15 minute period at Gatwick airport. By the time they arrived she had been awake for 16 hours and was still cheerful - although we fully expected her to sleep on the car ride back to Rodney Bay - another 1 � hours. She stayed awake however, and ate a small dinner before going to sleep in her bunk.

The next few days were a round of beach, eating out at lunchtime and an evening ashore with Michelle and Martin at the hotel. Michelle and Martin went on some wonderful trips, including whale and dolphin watching, trips into the rain forest and a chocolate factory.

On the Thursday Martin, Michelle, Bethan, Lucy, Paul and I sailed down to Marigot Bay further down the west coast. It was a beautiful bay and was where Dr Doolittle was filmed.

When we arrived a young fellow who was selling turtle ornaments met the boat in his own craft. Michelle and Martin bought a turtle - Lucy bought one later from another vendor ashore. This beautiful bay was very luxurious and unfortunately rather expensive. Until that point we thought that it would be a good place to leave me with the boat whilst Paul returned to the UK as it was very sheltered. However, I would have been very isolated as there was only one way out to the main road by taxi and that would make the cost prohibitive.

The sail back was rather boisterous and was generally enjoyed - but Bethan wanted to go into the fo'csle and read with Grandma and unfortunately the motion there gave her a queasy tummy but we went back on deck and it was soon forgotten when we returned to Rodney Bay.

We were sad that Paul had to leave so soon, he was hoping to be able to stay with us and maybe catch the same plane back as Lucy and Bethan, but it was apparent by then that due to business problems his departure could not be delayed that long and he booked a flight back the week before Lucy and Bethan left.

Michelle and Martin finished their honeymoon in style - After spending the morning at the Pigeon Island National Park they arranged to take the helicopter from Vigie Airport at Castries to Hewanorra Airport at the far South. We were on the beach again that day so they joined us for a last minute swim before leaving for Castries.

The day afterwards, Sunday, we weighed anchor and moved to the other end of the bay in the shelter of Pigeon Island, which is no longer an island as it has been joined to the mainland by a causeway, using the soil excavated when building the harbour.

On Pigeon Island is a restaurant/bar called Jambe de Bois, we had read about in our cruising guide that is owned by a lady from the UK who also does all she can to help the animals on the island.

On Sunday evenings they hold live jazz sessions so we went ashore and thoroughly enjoyed our evening.

Sadly, on the Tuesday Paul had to leave us. This confused Bethan a lot. Even after we had taken him to the airport it obviously hadn't registered where he was going and when we returned to the boat she expected to see him there. It subdued her considerably over the next few days and we had to keep cheering her up by saying she would see him the next week when she returned to the UK.

We considered it sensible to bring Sareda into the harbour where I could easily reach all amenities in the dinghy. It was not so pleasant as anchoring off the beach but was very convenient. This time I drove the hire car to the airport and after saying goodbye to Paul we decided we would return via the West Coast.

Some inland adventuring!!

The mountainous scenery was spectacular. The steep roads and hairpin bends awesome and not a little frightening, but we were entranced. As we neared Soufriere the home of the Pitons - we saw a road sign indicating the drive in volcano and sulphur springs.

The entrance fee was minimal and we drove in and parked the car within the centre of the volcano. A guide met us and took us to a viewing point where we were able to watch the sulphur bubbling in the craters as a thick chocolate sauce might bubble in the pan. Unfortunately, the smell wasn't so pleasant, reminiscent of rotten eggs!!

Afterwards we were told we could bathe in the hot spring that has resulted from a stream running through the volcano and being warmed by the hot sulphurous mineral. We were told it was very beneficial to health.

Lucy had her bathing gear with her and took advantage of it and Bethan was able to join her in her birthday suit. I dipped my feet in and it was a pleasurable experience, the water being hotter than I would normally have in my bath.

We then wend our way back to Rodney Bay and as we had the car decided to drive over to Pigeon Island and the Jambe de Bois restaurant/ bar that we had enjoyed so much when we were with Paul on Sunday evening.

The live Jazz only happens on Sundays but Jazz is played as background music and we enjoyed a very cheap and enjoyable meal. I had a vegetable roti that cost less than �2. Unfortunately, Bethan fell asleep after eating and missed the small mouse that peeked out from the corner of the bar behind our table. Lucy and I kept quiet about it, we didn't want to be responsible for mouse traps being set!!

We returned there a few nights later when we had a car again but unfortunately the mouse was elusive, he had added to the atmosphere and we missed his presence.

We were keen to show Bethan dolphins and whales in their natural habitat and as we couldn't go sailing and try to find them for ourselves we booked to go whale and dolphin watching with a company that had a 80 per cent success rate in finding them.

The tour ran from Castries a little further down the coast and we had to be there by 8.00am in the morning. As a taxi would have cost almost as much as a hire car we hired a car from lunchtime the day before and decided to drive to the east coast where, we were told, turtles could be seen on the beach.

After following the map to the approximate area we found the turtle watch signs and followed them. We were a bit dubious when the signs took us off the road and down a very rough track - the sea still appeared to be a long way off!! After driving a good mile, maybe more, it is hard to tell when driving at 2 kilometres an hour, we decided that it would be foolhardy to drive any further. The track was becoming more and more rutted and uneven!!

We had already passed one car parked at the side of the track and decided to turn around and park behind it. As I attempted to turn the wheels decided to spin and in the end I had to reverse back up the track with Lucy walking beside the car guiding me away from the deepest ruts.

We parked up and decided we would sort out the problem of turning when we had been to the beach as we decided we would walk the rest of the way. After twenty or so minutes negotiated the track on foot with a two year old who didn't want to walk we were seriously thinking of abandoning the whole idea - it just seemed such a shame after getting so near.

As we were discussing this we heard an engine and saw a truck coming very slowly down the track. As it was passing we asked the driver how much further it was to the beach, he said it was still quite a long way but that we were welcome to jump in the cab.We hesitated momentarily and then decided to take him up on his offer.

He told us he had two daughters, one nine and one ten months old. We asked about the property on the island as we had passed both luxury houses and small shacks on our journey.

He informed us that the owners of the luxury houses were generally the managers and owners of various businesses and required planning permission to be built. The wooden homes, did not require planning permission and were generally built by the workers themselves.

He had built himself and his family a two bedroomed home that was fine for them at this time but he said that when he had saved up some more money he would build on at a later date. When we were within a couple of hundred yards of the beach two other workers came out of the bushes - they were cutting the turfs that were to be loaded onto the truck and taken to the hotel for whom they were working.

We felt slightly intimidated as they approached the truck with their machettes, but they seemed very friendly and our driver said that after they had loaded up the truck we were very welcome to have a lift back to the car, he even offered to come down to the beach and pick us up.

By this time he had told us that the turtles only came to the beach at night to lay their eggs and so our journey had really been unnecessary!! We did not stay on the beach long and when we returned to where they were they had just finished loading the truck - we were amazed at the speed in which they had achieved this and said so!

One of the three then went into the bushes and climbed a palm tree cutting down about 6/8 coconuts. He brought them back in a sack and proceeded to cut off the surrounding flesh with his machette and chipped into the husk creating a hole for us to drink the cool and refreshing coconut water.

After we had finished the water he then cut the nuts open and extracted the soft delicious flesh from within. This bears no comparison to the rather dry flesh that is extracted from the coconuts we buy in the UK and we all enjoyed it immensely.

Then another three coconuts were prepared and given to us to have after our meal that evening.

We could not get over just how friendly, helpful and pleasant these men were. They then gave us a lift back to our car and our driver kindly offered to turn it around for me as I had already explained my difficulty earlier.

We felt really humbled and were most ashamed of ourselves for doubting their integrity earlier - Lucy was mortified that she had harboured doubts.
We gave them $25 EC that amounted to approximately �5 - not only did they not ask or expect payment but they were obviously very appreciative of what we thought was only a small gesture and we took another photograph of them driving away on their truck.

The following morning we drove down to Castries for the whale and dolphin watch. Once we had moved out of the lee of the land we went forward to the bow our eyes peeled for signs of marine life. After approx � hour the boat gained speed and headed for a specific point where another boat from the same company was hovering.

As we drew nearer we could see the pilot whales in the water - there must have been between fifty and sixty of them spread over a small area. From my experience of sighting marine creatures with Paul they generally move fairly rapidly, especially the dolphins that tend to play around the boat jumping in unison appearing to show off, but I am sure this is just their usual play. However the pilot whales were fairly docile and just swam lazily around giving us plenty of time to see them.

We had already passed a few dolphins en route to the whales but they were not very near and unfortunately Bethan hadn't seen them, they were so quick. However, on our way back we were joined by a school of dolphins that frolicked around the boat and from our bow position we were able to look down into the water and see them swimming right underneath us. Bethan was fascinated; hopefully it will remain one of her early childhood memories.

The day before Lucy and Bethan returned to the UK we again hired a car - we had to have one for the following day to take her to the airport so we made it two days. We travelled down the west coast of the island again and headed for Soufriere by the Pitons again. When we arrived we were looking for the waterfall and botanical gardens. Someone saw us hesitating on which way to go and asked us what we were looking for - he then ran ahead of the car and told us to follow him until we were on the right road. He did ask for a donation of $10 EC (approx �2) but it was worth it.

The botanical gardens were beautiful but unfortunately there was strictly no bathing allowed in the pool beneath the waterfall although they had man made small pools that had health giving properties and were very warm. We enjoyed our time there very much.

We then moved out of Soufriere and turned off the main road towards another waterfall. On our way there we found the workshop that produced masks, totem type poles and other wooden carvings, mainly fish. They sold these in Rodney Bay and earlier in the week Lucy had been tempted to buy a mask. There was a far greater selection here and she found one she really liked - I was tempted by a colourful fish that I thought would look nice on the boat, it still had to be varnished but as it only takes a very short time to dry he said he would finish it by the time we returned from the waterfall - I have a photo of him working on it which I shall put in the gallery.

We continued on to the other waterfalls, one hot and one cold. I couldn't be bothered to change into swimming gear again but Lucy and Bethan enjoyed it.

The following day they left for home. I found it very sad and miss them terribly!!